Acids in a Nutshell

Chemical peels are always popular and great to do in the winter time. These contain acids to help dissolve the 'glue' that holds the dead skin cells together. It's important that the chemicals you do with your esthetician or dermatologist/plastic surgeon are working only on the dead skin level and that they do not go into the living skin cells.

Each acid has a job to do and target different skin concerns. While we know that chemical peels contain them, what you might not have known is that they are commonly added into cleansers, serums and more that you can use at home. In a lower concentration, they may be right for your skin. 

So how can I tell the acids apart? Which ones are most common? Here is a little description on the most common acids you might find in your products and what they will do for the skin.

Lactic Acid is considered the most gentle of acids because it is the largest molecule size. That means that it can't penetrate too deep. While it mainly targets dry, dull and lack luster skin, this is suitable to start off most clients with this type of peel to see how your individual skin will react to the acids.

Most of us will think back to the Romans, who were known for taking milk baths. Their beautiful, glowing skin was silky and soft. Who wouldn't want that?

Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule size and most clients feel this type of peel because it can go further into the skin, making it more active. This acid comes from sugar cane and is very effective at treating breakouts, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles. It stimulates the collagen and elastin fibers to awake and get working, which is a huge bonus for those of us who want to work on aging skin!

One of my favorite award winning peels is the GM Collin Derm Renewal, which combines the powers of Lactic and Gycolic Acids. A series of this peel will work to even out the surface layers of the skin by improving texture, reducing visible signs of aging and brightening the skin.

Salicyclic Acid comes from willow bark and is most common known and used for acne. It is a BHA (Beta Hydroxy acid) and works to loosen and soften dry, scaly skin while reducing oilness, acne and photo-aging. Salicyclic Acid goes into the pores flushing out the dirt, oil, and debris that can cause blackheads, whiteheads, and enlarged pores.

While this is a typical acne product, it's important to remember that it is drying on the skin. This is great, but some clients take it too far. Work with your Esthetician to find the balance in your skin while ridding the skin of acne. Because skin that feels dry will signal back to the cells to produce more oil. 

Mandelic Acid derived from bitter almond is also a great acid and works on many skin types. It is actually one of my favorite acids in treating acne because it can treat all types of acne, such as folliculitis. Its antibacterial properties make it suitable for acne clients, while also making it appropriate for clients that are working on pigmentation and the damage that the skin causes to our skin.

The Salicyclic Peel in the GM Collin line actually has more Mandelic Acid in it than Salicylic. Again, the combining forces of these acids (along with the Glycolic Acid) make it powerful, yet gentle on the skin.

Chemicals have been used for years and will continue to be a popular treatment for clients because of their effectiveness. The percentage of acids in products is important to note, while the professional products will usually have a higher amount (as well as being higher up in the ingredient list.) The number is not everything, however. Make sure that you work with your Esthetician to find the right balance for you and your skin!