How to Keep Your Skin Clear This Winter

Raise your hand if you would like clear, beautiful skin. (I sure hope all hands went up!) I sure do! Did you know that skin care is very seasonal? South East Idaho has all four seasons (sometimes all in one day - haha.) Today, let's discuss tips on how to keep your skin clear during the winter months.

Water

Are you drinking enough water? Typically we think that hydration needs to happen better in the summer because we are more likely to sweat during those hot months. But when it gets really cold outside, guess what we do inside? We turn up the heat. All of that forced dry air will mimic the hot, windy climate that we experience in the summer. You may not feel the need to drink water because hot cocoa, coffee, and tea might be screaming your name to warm you up, which is why it's so important to bring a water bottle with you and sip throughout the day. You can also choose to increase your diet with foods higher in water!

Change up your at home products

The products that your skin needs to be amazing in the winter are quite different. Instead of using your favorite foaming cleanser, you may want to grab a milk cleanser which will feel like a lotion. Don't skip exfoliating, but listen to what your skin is telling you. Most exfoliating products are to be used once to twice a week. Would your skin prefer an exfoliating mask over a scrub in the winter. Listen for clues and your skin will tell you. You'll definitely want a little bit heavier moisturizer that locks in the hydration and natural oils in your skin too. If you only use a night cream one season a year, always, always, always choose winter!

Lukewarm water

I've said it before and I'll say it again (probably more for my benefit), the best water to cleanse your face in is lukewarm water (which might feel colder to you than you think.) Hot water feels nice but can strip away more of your natural oils on your skin... they are definitely there for a reason! And while we are on the topic. If you take a nice warm, hot bath, or take advantage of our close location to Lava Hot Springs, Idaho, you'll want to gently cleanse and moisturize afterwards as soon as you can.

Step up your timing game

Want to get the most out of your products? Make sure that after you wash your face with your milk cleanser and rinse with the lukewarm water, spritz your face with the mist and immediately moisturize with the proper product. Do not stop to collect your $200 or glance at 5 more Instagram pictures... do it right away!

Exfoliation

If you find that you are experiencing more acne or more dryness, you may need to step up your exfoliation. One of my skin care philosophies is More is not always better. But maybe you need to do twice a week instead of one or swtich to a different exfoliator all together. The key here is to consult with your Esthetician on what you need to do to help buffer your skin through these winter months.

So there are a few of my recommendations. Drink water, change up your home care routine, use lukewarm water for cleansing, and make sure that your exfoliation is the right kind and you are using it the right amount. A facial could also benefit your skin greatly, so be sure to schedule a treatment and let your Esthetician do the heavy lifting.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why You Should Be Treating Your Skin Topically

Have you ever wondered why you should treaty your skin topically instead of just through diet and supplements? The hierarchy of the food chain in your body goes something like this. You eat, drink or take a vitamin and your body decides where it should go and who should have first dibs at the nutrients. Well, that stands to reason that heart and lungs get first dibs, followed by organs like kidneys, liver, etc. Everyone gets a piece until it’s done. The organ that gets the scraps and leftovers? You guessed it! The skin! But which organ is the largest? Right again. The skin.

So if the skin gets the leftovers of anything put inside of the body, it stands to reason that the best way to treat your skin to nourishment would be to treat it from the outside in. We do this through picking the very best skincare. This ensures that you’ll get the highest quality ingredients at the top of the ingredient deck list. The first eight ingredients are the ones that you should pay most attention to, as these should be the active ingredients.

There can also be a huge range in cost of products. For example, vitamin C is one of the least shelf stable ingredients in skincare. But, if you get the right versions of vitamin C (ones that your skin can absorb and utilize), you’ll be amazed at what that can do for you! Remember, there is ALWAYS a reason why something is cheaper!

Once you have picked a quality skincare routine, stick to a routine! Don’t just let those pretty bottles sit nicely in the bathroom cabinet. For best results, follow the directions on the bottles and use within the amount of time stated. Most are 12 months, but some are 6 months or even 3. Note this when starting a product.

Finally, your skin cannot out work your diet and other factors. If you eat poorly and use quality skincare, your skin will still show that. Try to eat clean, exercise, drink a proper amount of water … you know the drill. And then pick the right routine that goes with your lifestyle and will help you reach your skincare goals! You can do this! And your Esthetician will be there every step along the way!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Having Realistic Expectations

There are so many things that we’d like to change about ourselves. Technology is booming and we are seeing and hearing what we feel like are instant results. But in case you didn’t know, I’m going to burst your bubble. Some things take time, and it’s important to have realistic expectations.

Intimate Waxing

When coming in for a waxing service, you really are wanting to be hair free! We try and catch the hair in the growing cycle to get you smooth the longest that we can. The first wax is always a good one. When you come in for future appointments, you’ll have about half of the hair back. Since we can only wax the hair that is outside of the skin, the other hairs will pop back through slowly over time. But if you have a hair come out a couple days later, this is to be expected. The great thing is that they don’t all come through at once … and they are finer and thinner.

Facials and Skin

We all have something that we’d like to change about our skin. Since our bodies are constantly aging, a lot of what we do is slowing down the aging process. Plus taking care of acne and sun damage, etc. If we are working on acne, you will need a minimum of 4 months to clear … and that’s if we get everything right and figure out your triggers. For sun damage, I like to hit those hard starting in September, but encourage limiting sun exposure and wearing SPF all year round. This takes a lot of time too.

Clients want a magic wand to be waved … and poof! Your problems are fixed. Many of them want the things fixed in one facial. That’s just not possible to do that. Also, many clients will listen to recommendations, but then don’t purchase any of the home care items. That isn’t going to get to you where you want to be. Home care products that contain active ingredients are great, but sometimes they also take time to work in the skin.

Lash Lifting

We’d love to perm up the eyelashes and have them look just like extensions. But they are very different. Extensions do just that. They can extend the length and also the appearance to make them look thicker and fuller. Lash lifting is working with your natural lash. If you just aren’t there with length, you’ll want to purchase the lash serum offered and be patient in waiting for them to be longer. The lash lifting won’t volumize that, so almost every client will still wear mascara when they receive a lash lift. One final thought here… If you have blonde or light eyelashes, you really should consider doing a lash lift and tint together. I think you’d like that much better.

So, if you are thinking it’s too good to be true, it might just be! Instead of trusting that Instagram Influencer or the latest Tik Tok video, ask your Esthetician. They know your skin, hair, and lashes and can customize the treatments and take home products just for you!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do I Get Rid of These Sunspots?

Maybe you noticed some extra color on your upper lip. Or when you were pregnant, you experienced a butterfly mask. Or perhaps, one side of your face is experiencing sun spots. All of these concerns are under a big umbrella of a term called ‘hyperpigmentation.’ Sometimes these age spots are called sun spots or liver spots. So how do you get rid of these sun spots?

First things first. You HAVE to use a broad spectrum daily sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher. You will need to reapply. Foundation that includes SPF is not a replacement for still wearing the sunscreen that is separate from your makeup. This step prevents the sun spots from getting worse and is critical from getting rid of these sun spots.

The next thing that you need to do is to make sure that you are using antioxidants and ingredients that will stop inflammatory reactions in the skin. Antioxidants include vitamin c, green tea extract, vitamin e, licorice root extract, and more. The skin will utilize these ingredients in protecting the skin as well as lightening the sun spots that have already appeared.

My third suggestion is to include exfoliation in your home care and spa treatments. AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids) not only help to remove dead skin cells, but it will help with texture, wrinkles, and also sun spots. Utilizing chemical peels in the treatment room (light, medium or aggressive - there are lots of options out there) will also help your home care products to penetrate the skin better.

Progress may be slow, which is why I recommend to do pictures, at least on a quarterly basis. Once you start seeing changes, don’t let up on the home care steps. You need to stay the course. Continue to use SPF, antioxidants, and exfoliation to see those sunspots lighten.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Is a Chemical Peel Right For Me?

If you have ever seen, read, or heard about someone getting a chemical peel, you may only thing of the sheets of skin peeling off of the skin. (Hey! I’m even guilty of receiving one of those.) But, I’m here to let you know that there are different types of chemical peels. Let’s go over those options … and to find out if a chemical peel is right for you!

There are different acids that are used for chemical peels that target different concerns in the skin. Generally speaking, lactic is the most mild and peels like Jessners (salicylic, glycolic, and rescorcinol) are the most aggressive. The more prepped your skin is, the less likely you are to peel or flake with a light or medium type of peel. The amount of peeling does not determine the effectiveness of the chemical peeling.

Common different acids used for chemical exfoliation are lactic, glycolic, malic, mandelic, salicylic, and resorcinol. These acids loosen and break up the glue holding dead skin cells together, revealing fresh, younger, healthy looking skin. Each acid combination will target different skin concerns like dryness, sun spots, acne, and more. I have options for EVERY skin type and EVERY skin care concern. Meaning, the chemical peel may be right for you. Those that are not good candidates are pregnant, cancer, diabetes, and other major health concerns.

If you’ve always wanted to try it, now is the right time!!! Peel season picks up in September and goes through end of April, mid May (although I offer lighter ones year round.) There may be a peel that is right for you. I can’t wait to show you wait a peel can do. There’s nothing old about a classic treatment!!!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

New Exfoliation Technique - Dermafiling

One of the most common responses that I hear from clients is that their skin just looks or feels ‘old.’ As we age, the process in which our dead skin cells turn over slows down. When the dead skin cells build up and don’t turn over as quickly, our skin really doesn’t have that youthful glow. Exfoliation is the one of the most important steps in a skin care routine. It is considered a heavy hitter or home run hitter.

As discussed in previous blog posts, there are three different types of exfoliation (mechanical, chemical and enzymatic.) Each of them has different benefits for the skin. I like to utilize all of them in the treatment room and at home.

This summer, while I was doing my month facial, I experienced Dermafiling and feel in love with how it felt on my skin. Think of a light sand paper on the skin, gently buffing the dead skin cells away. You can use these with or without enzymes.

What is Dermafiling?

Dermafiling is a precision skin polishing tool that is triple coated in the United States with finely crushed cosmetic diamond that wrap around the edged of the tool.

What are the benefits of Dermafiling?

While the Dermafiling technique is an exfoliation step, it does much more than that. Here are a couple of my favorite benefits:

Instantly balances the tone and texture of the skin

Stimulates collagen

Stimulates lymph movement

Provides a soft erythemic glow that warms the face as fresh blood and nutrients arrive to heal and repair

Who is Dermafiling right for?

Dermafiling is right for almost anyone, as there are different strengths of the diamond crusted plates. Those who should avoid include high risk pregnancies, diabetes, leukemia, kidney or liver disorders, fresh scars, or sensitive or reactive skin conditions, among others. Your Esthetician will consult with you to make sure that this technique is right for you and your skin care goals.

I’m excited for you to try Dermafiling. Through this month (September 2021), the only facial you can receive this with is The Refresher, the newest seasonal facial to remove summer from your skin and prep your skin for fall. After September, you can ask to add this to your facial! I know you are going to love it like I did!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why is My Skin Dry After a Facial?

You’ve just received a wonderful facial! You are so relaxed and your skin is glowing better than it has ever done before. So, if it feels SO good the day of, why am I feeling dry a couple days after and what can I do about it?

For starters, what estheticians do in a facial is not something that you do everyday. Usually a facial includes one to two cleanses, exfoliation, mask, with all of the ending products like serums, moisturizers, eye cream and SPF. One common exfoliant used in a facial is an enzyme exfoliant that eats away at the glue that hold dead skin cells together on your skin. This loosen process is so effective, yet gentle on the skin, and is a go to for many skin care professionals. So if you loosen it all up, not all of the dead skin cells will slough off right away. Some will be coming off two and three days later.

If this has happened to you and you aren’t sure what to do about it, here are my main suggestions.

#1 Regular exfoliation

Make sure that in your skin care routine at home that you are regularly exfoliating the skin so that the dead skin cells do not build up. If you normally get dry a couple days post a facial, make sure that you exfoliate about day three. That process will help you remove any of the light flaking that you are seeing.

#2 Regular facials

Deep cleanses and exfoliations that can only be done at the spa are important. Since you only get one face, I suggest regular facials to help slow the aging process, work on your specific skin concerns, and to help boost your great routine that you have at home.

#3 Moisturize

Make sure after you’ve exfoliated your skin that you are also using a moisturizer that is appropriate for your skin. You may also want to boost your routine right after the facial with a serum. Not only will this help lengthen the glow and results of the facial, but it will help your skin to receive that hydration deeper in the skin so you can skip the dry days.

Using all three of these suggestions would give you the ultimate results and help you to avoid any dryness after a facial. If you do experience dryness, also make sure that you tell your esthetician so that they may be able to adjust one or more of the steps in your next facial too!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Collagen Supplements and Skin

One of the latest trends in the skin industry has been adding in supplements. While we know the American diet is lacking in many nutrients, we also know that taking vitamins and other supplements can help … or hinder or progress that we are trying to make with our skin. Biotin, for example, can aggravate acne while promoting hair and nail growth. So, for me, it’s not just cut and dry.

Treating the skin topically instead of internally has always been one of the truths that I believe. I believe it to be much more effective and this is why. Why you eat or drink anything, the body has a hierocracy system of delivering what is needed where. The heart and lungs will always get first dibs on anything. It will then go to other organs such as the kidneys, liver, etc. The last and final organ to receive the nutrients is also the largest. And you know what that one is. It’s the skin! Because of that, it’s important to use the right skincare routine. (This is not an excuse to eat badly, not exercise, or drink water … because this is still important to help keep our systems in check and not further the problems with our skin.)

When you consume a collagen drink or supplement, your body will break it down, absorbed through the bloodstream and send it where it is needed. You cannot dictate where that may be. Supplements are not as regulated either, so make sure if you choose to take one, that you do your research. Not all supplements are created equal … the same as skin care. The quality of ingredients as well as where they fall on the ingredient label will differ.

As I do more research and experimenting, my opinion may change. I know many that love it and stand by it. But for me, the verdict is still out. I will continue to have a healthy lifestyle and treat my skin from the outside in.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do I Get Rid of the Blackheads on My Nose?

Believe it or not, when I ask my clients to tell me what they would like to change about their skin, the #1 answer I hear is to get rid of those pesky blackheads on their nose. 99% of the time, when doing a skin analysis in the facial, the clients that I am seeing DO NOT have blackheads. So ... if they aren't blackheads, what exactly are they?

Let's start at the beginning. The pore is the opening of a hair follicle or sweat gland. These terms are used interchangeably by professionals. The pores or follicles down the middle of your face are wider and more visible. This affects the middle of the forehead, nose, and chin area. What you are probably seeing is a sebaceous filament. So what is it and how can you tell the difference between one of those and a blackhead?

I describe a sebaceous filament as a screen door for the skin and pore. It is going to keep the kids in and the flies out. The kids are the lipids and other good things inside of the skin. The flies are the free radicals, pollution, etc that you don’t want in the skin. These are mainly skin colored, clear, or sometimes grey. You can remove them, but within a couple days, they will be back.

Blackheads are dilated at the top of also oxidized, which makes them look dark or black. A blackhead contains sebum (which is oil), bacteria and skin debris. When extracted from the skin, they are hardened as well and look quite different from a sebaceous filament.

So while the sebaceous filaments may seem to be pesky and irritating, and you ‘can’ extract them, you now know that they are harmless and don’t indicate that you aren’t cleaning your skin well. If you are in doubt, let’s set up your next facial treatment where your Esthetician will take a closer look under the magnifying lenses to let you know for sure what you are dealing with.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why Use a Different Cleanser for Morning and Night?

So you may not have quite as many options for skin care products in your bathroom vanity as I do, but it is nice to have a selection. One of the questions I am asked on a regular basis is why use a different cleanser for morning and night. 

Great question! And here is the answer. First, you definitely can have a one size fits all product for your skin, especially a cleanser. It does it's job and it rinsed and then wiped off the skin with a gentle cloth.

But a lot of times, it's great to have a milky or oil cleanser to grab better at the makeup, dirt, oil, and debris that are accumuluated through the day ... to use at NIGHT before bed. The milk or oil cleansers are better at hydrating the skin with ingredients such as humectants. Because during the night, our bodies are healing and repairing themselves (circadian rhythm), it's great to have something more moisturizing.

And then in the morning, it's awesome to have a foaming, refreshing cleanser that wakes up the skin and revitalizes it gently. I still will use the cloth for both morning and night (switching it out frequently - because clean is awesome.) I'm also a sucker for the baby washcloths because they are so gentle on even the most sensitive skin types. 

By using two different cleansers, you are going to see the best of both worlds. You'll be able to have your cake and eat it too! If you haven't tried this combination out, I invite you to try it soon! Let your Esthetician know when you go to your next appointment, and they will be happy to assist you in finding the right cleansers for your skin.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

My Skin Care Philosophies in the Treatment Room

Every Esthetician that I meet has different beliefs in the treatment room. They have services that they know and love … as well as ones that they steer clear of. These have been not only ingrained in us from schooling, but also from our real world experiences. They are essential why we do what we do.

I am a blend of many treatments, products lines that I have worked with closely plus through experiences. My philosophies continue to grow and evolve over time. In fact, I don’t think that they will ever stop changing. My main three skin care philosophies are:

Knowledge opens the mind to know why to do something different

Skin care at home is paramount and will help you achieve your goals

More is not always better

KNOWLEDGE

It’s been said, “You don’t know what you don’t know … until you know.” I challenge myself often to take continuing education (both hands on and online), to try new products, and to step outside of my role as an Esthetician. Asking the question WHY also sparks interest to learn a different approach.

I believe that one of my most significant role as an Esthetician is in the process of explaining WHY you would choose a specific service, product, home care routine, etc. Knowing WHY allows you to start that same process to understand. When we know better, we do better.

AT HOME SKIN CARE

I make parallels all of the time about the gym/trainer and the dentist/brushing. In case you haven’t heard them, let me quickly tell you.

Meeting with a trainer and not returning to do the workouts on your own only allows your trainer to do so much with you on your next visit. Unless your trainer is with you every time, you’ll only be able to progress so far with your physique.

You get your teeth cleaned every six months … but this doesn’t replace the brushing twice a day that you have to do on your own.

The real change and magic doesn’t happen in the treatment room with you. It happens with your CONSISTENCY in your routine at home. You are responsible for 80% of the changes we make. I will be able to get that 80% up to 100% in the treatment room by BOOSTING everything you are doing. If you slack at home, I will also not be able to do as much at your appointments.

MORE IS NOT BETTER

As Americans, we are programmed for faster results with little to no effort. Amazon Prime has ruined our patience. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Likewise, our results with our skin will happen overtime. Our skin cell turnover is ideally 28 days (and slows as we age.) You would need at least 3 skin cell turn overs to start seeing results. Therefore, it stands to reason that you start to see results 3 to 4 months down the road which then progress from there.

There are times to push your skin and times to back off. It’s important for you to listen to your skin and the cues it is telling you. I will do the skin. We may tweak your home care routine and the series of treatments that have been recommended to you. Or we may stay the course. But remember that more is not always better… even though most want to ‘feel’ like a product is working.

I hope to partner WITH YOU in reaching your skin care goals over time. Seek to learn why, be consistent in your home care routine that has been set up for you by your Esthetician, and remember that more is not always better. Thank you for trusting the process and having patience!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

The Importance of a Yearly Skin Exam

Small changes seem to creep up on us overnight. All of a sudden, you gained 10 pounds, went gray, or a wrinkle appeared. No, it didn’t happen instantly … but sometimes it really feels like it does. When you see yourself in the mirror everyday, you may not notice some changes that are happening in the skin. While I think it’s a great idea to come in for regular facials, it’s an even better one to come in for a yearly skin exam.

What are the benefits of regular facials? In addition to the deep cleanse, exfoliation and targeted masks he or she will apply, your Esthetician will also be looking at any changes (both good and bad) that they see in your skin. They will give you recommendations for an excellent home care routine and suggestions on how to improve your skin so that you can reach your skin care goals.

Estheticians are specialists in skin and skin care, knowing ingredients, technologies and more to help improve acne, rosacea, and slowing down the aging processes. Many skincare specialists get into esthetics because they have a passion for helping others. They may also have suffered from acne or other skin issues. They are experts in the art of a facial. They are not the person you see to check moles, skin tags, and for your yearly check of skin cancer… but many times, Estheticians may be the ones to see something different (or changed) on your skin and recommend that you make an appointment with a Dermatologist.

Dermatologists are trained to inspect the skin and know what looks right and what is concerning. They see skin care and a huge array of skin issues each and everyday. While it might seem scary to you to go, it should feel like a relief to have your skin get the once over by a specialist. They are definitely professionals at what they do. When they ask you if you’ve seen anything that is particularly concerning to you, make sure that you bring up any and all areas of concern, including what your Esthetician has pointed out to you. It’s generally a quick in and out appointment and one that you shouldn’t put off! You’ll wear underwear under your gown if you are more comfortable and with loops (special magnifier glasses) or a magnifier with light they will inspect the skin for anything suspicious.

If you’ve been dreading going to the Dermatologist, let me suggest that you pick up the phone and make the appointment. This is the first step and I’m here to encourage you to just do it!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Does my Foundation Count as SPF?

A typical dialogue from me to clients goes something like this. Hello and welcome to Essential Esthetics by Zoey. I am excited to meet you! Let's go over what you already use for your skin. Cleanser? Check. Exfoliant? Check. Mask? Moisturizer? Eye Cream? Check, check, check. What about an SPF? ... Well, I wear foundation and it has SPF in it. Does that count as my sunscreen?

I may try not to cringe or be harsh, but remember that I'm a shoot straight from the hip kind of gal and esthetician. The answer is no, it doesn't count, but it is great for an extra added layer of protection!

I once saw a YouTube video where I watched the amount of foundation that had to be applied in order for it to have the amount of SPF as it said it had. Do you know how many pumps? (Well, I do, because honestly, I couldn't believe that it was actually happening...) It was NINE pumps! N-I-N-E PUMPS of foundation to get the protection on the skin. Could you imagine? Our faces aren't that big. For foundation wearers, the average amount would be two pumps. This is a generous amount but allows you to use a brush or sponge or beauty blender to make it look like your normal skin and to blend down your neck. Watching him apply NINE pumps to the skin was absolutely hideous. 

The absolute BEST thing that you can do for your skin is to wear a daily SPF. This is your insurance policy. A broad spectrum sunscreen will protect you against UV-A and UV-B rays. Many also contain ingredients that also help with free radical damage, which is a major contributor to early aging. Don't have one you love? No problem. I do!!! And I'm happy to show you how to use it so that you'll be a raving fan!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

What is LED Light Therapy?

LED stands for light-emitting diode and has been studied for decades. It was first studied by Niels Finsen and was call photo therapy. Later, it was also researched by NASA who found that LED improved human tissues in the areas of healing and tissue growth. Each color of light reaches a different level of the skin and also helps with something specific in the skin. Simply put, LED stimulates cell function. Examples of the different cell functions would be to help reduce the amount of bacteria, stimulation circulation, increase production of collagen and elastin, and more.

Each light color corelates to a different depth in the skin called nanometers. Depending on the equipment used will determine the number of nanometers, but there is a gold standard. These usually include the wavelengths that have been studied more frequently to get the best results for the client.

Here is a quick breakdown of the colors, range of nanomenters, and benefits to the skin

Red light - 630-680 nm

• Increases cellular processes

• Boosts collagen and elastin production

• Stimulates wound healing

Yellow light - 590 nm

• Reduces inflammation

• Improves lymphatic flow

• Detoxifies and increases circulation

Green light - 525 nm

• Lessens hyperpigmentation

• Reduces redness

• Calms and soothes

Blue Light - 405-420 nm

• Improves acne

• Reduces bacteria

• Can be used with medications by a dermatologist for precancerous spots

Infrared - 800-900 nm

• Heats tissue in the skin to promote healing

• Known for pain management

• Stimulates Collagen and Elastin

Some of the latest technology is also showing great advancement with using Green Light Therapy to treat acne and shows that perhaps using Blue Light is actually the less effective option of the range. If you’d like to check more into that, search The Skinny on Green Light Therapy by Shelley Hancock.

I love utilizing this technology. Easy, non invasive, it works for every skin type and every skin condition. Doing a series of two to three treatments for four or more weeks in a row will show best results. Sometimes using just one light. For others, utilizing more than one type of light is effective. The number of joules and number of lights will also increase the efficiency and effectiveness of your treatments.

This skin modality of LED Light Therapy is here to stay! And I’m sure that we will continue to learn more in years to come.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Sunscreen and Vitamin D

So you are educated and savvy, knowing that wearing your sunscreen daily helps protect the skin from the dangers of sun and skin cancer. But you also know that over 60% of those living in North America (studies range on the percentage) are Vitamin D deficient. Our body converts the sunlight into Vitamin D. D3 is stored in the fat cells and isn’t released into the body to be utilized. Melanin blocks Vitamin D, so the darker your skin, the more likely you are to be deficient. With the recent Covid pandemic, there has been additional light shed on Vitamin D.

So, if you know you are lacking in Vitamin D and you know that sunshine converts to Vitamin D in the skin, how do you get the right amount and still protect your skin? Is there a win/win scenario here?

Low levels of Vitamin D contribute to thinning and fragile skin, a decrease in the elasiticty, suppleness and structural support, and dryness and wrinkles due to loss of hydration.

Having adequate Vitamin D levels protect the telomeres and dna damage. Telomeres are like the end caps of the shoe laces. When damage occurs, these plastic sleeves come off and start to shorten and fray. This shortening process is directly correlated to biological aging. Vitamin D combats against free radicals and oxidative stress, enhances skin’s immunity and healing capabilities.

The good news is that multiple studies show that use of a daily sunscreen does not lead to Vitamin D deficiency. Rarely do people use enough sunscreen to block all of the sun’s rays. Since the skin receives the leftovers of each nutrient, it’s always helpful to treat the skin topically versus internally.

So the answer is, yes! Please wear your sunscreen daily. And yes, treat your skin with amazing skin care that has great ingredients that the skin can recognize and absorb. If you believe that you are low in Vitamin D, check with your doctor about receiving your labs to determine your number. Then listen to his/her advice on how they would like to address your situation.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Understanding Skin Care Buzz Words

There are so many buzz words these days, especially in skincare because ingredients, technology and science are always changing. It’s exciting to see the development in products, but that may leave you feeling a little confused and unsure. Here is an overview of some of them you may have heard floating out there - acids, anitoxidants, plant sources, proteins, and vitamins.

Acids

Acids are wonderful ingredients that help exfoliate the skin, keeping the skin looking and feeling healthy and glowing. You might be thinking that acids are just in chemical peels, but you’d be surprised to know they are in many cleansers, serums, and moisturizers. Different acids target different areas of concerns and reach different levels in the skin depending on the molecule size.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants protect the skin from free radical damage and other environmental pollution that we encounter on a daily basis. Have you ever seen an apple turn brown once you cut it? Well, the same thing can happen to our skin. Antioxidants prevent sun damage, help the skin repair itself, and they can even out your skin tone, making it appear brighter and healthie

Plant Sources

Plant sources are directly linked to natural botanical extracts. Many skincare lines have found that sources in nature are easily accepted into the skin, especially when using high quality, lab tested ingredients. They help fight inflammation and protect your skin from damage and early signs of aging.

Proteins

Proteins are chains of essential amino acids that act like the building blocks for protein in your skin. Peptides are also included in this category and act like little bosses that tell the skin cells what to do and to do those functions properly.

Vitamins

Vitamins are essential for cell functions, helping to boost the immune system, suppress pigmentation, stimulate collagen and provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

While using one of these ingredients is good for the skin, just one is not going to give you the results that you are looking for to keep your skin healthy and youthful. It’s important to choose quality skincare that uses ingredients that work synergistically in the skin. Also, ingredients that are not recognized and absorbed in the skin are not going to be able to perform their claims. Work with your Esthetician in first communicating your personal skin care goals, and then to find the right products that contain ingredients to get you to your goals.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Does Diet Affects Our Skin?

Diet is an ongoing debate in dermatology. I am a firm believer in treating the whole person and not looking for a quick fix. The things that we do over and over and over again, surely affect our body and mind. Since the skin is the largest organ, it stands to reason that the fuel we put into our system affects our skin. Today, we will take a closer look into sugar, caffeine, alcohol and iodine.

Sugar and glycation

If you’ve guessed that sugar can cause breakouts in the skin, you are correct. But what is more frightening than that is what happens underneath the skin that you do not see. The excess sugar in the skin binds to the collagen and elastin in the skin, causing it to become hard and rigid instead of supple. When your face moves, the bounce back effect slows which is when fine lines and wrinkles begin.

I always recommend a balanced diet; low in the white stuff (sugar, processed, starches, etc.) and more in the colorful stuff (fruits, veggies, etc.) That being said, I heard recently that it’s important to have a healthy diet, but that cookies are good for the soul. If you like to indulge in sweets, just remember that moderation in sugar is a good thing.

Caffeine and hydration … Alcohol and redness

It’s not all about what we eat, but what we drink. We know that both caffeine and alcohol are stressors for the body. Caffeine (for many is the nice little perk in the morning) can dehydrate your body. Water is very healing and a large percentage of what we are made up of. The skin gets the leftovers of everything we ingest, but it also is the first place that can be taken from when the body needs something. I am the first to have dry lips. Part of this can be curbed by being mindful of the amount of caffeine you consume as well as the water that you intake.

Alcohol has inflammation effects in the skin, causing redness, puffiness and also dryness. It too can also cause acne. If your skin has a tendency already to be more red or your have rosacea or flushing in the cheeks, it’s my recommendation that you limit alcohol. After you have a night of drinking, you’ll also need to step up your hydration game. Carry a water bottle with you and continue to drink as much water as you can the next day or too.

Iodine and acne

This has been a long debate that is ongoing. Dr. Mark Fulton shared that there was a correlation between acne and iodine in the production of acne. Since then, Laura Cooksley has also shared the same thought. However, Dr. Mark Lees has challenged that thinking and believes that you would have to consume A LOT of iodiode food, such as sea kelp several times a week.

My thought is that it is relatively easy to keep this low (by using Himalayan salt instead of iodized salt, choosing low sodium foods, and not eating too much sea weed), so why not give it a try IF you are having issues with acne. Salt is also going to increase the puffiness in the skin, so if you are looking to rid yourself of those bags under your eyes, this will be a good idea too.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

What Causes Wrinkles? Preventing Aging by Slowing the Clock

Every year, the cake comes complete with candles, family and friends, and the traditional song, right! And each year, we are aging. <clear throat> Happy birthday to you! Happy birthday to you! Happy birthday dear beautiful! Happy birthday to YOOOUUUUUUUU! As we see the numbers go up, we also see a loss of the fat pads in the face and additions of the wrinkles. Other things also become more noticeable. 11s in between your brows, the long horizontal lines on your forehead, short lines around your twinkling eye, and the marionette lines around your mouth. Simply put, wrinkles are caused by a breakdown in the elastin and collagen fibers. Over time, our muscles continue to make contractions when we smile, laugh, frown, or wink! This movement in the muscle will eventually form a small fine line. The fine lines over time become deeper and create a wrinkle.

So now that we know the basics of how a wrinkle is formed, let's dive into how we can slow the aging clock, but externally and internally.

Three External Slowing Recommendations

#1 - Sunscreen/SPF

The sun is the number one external aging factor, so it stands to reason that the number one suggestion should be using a quality sunscreen or SPF. You need to apply daily (and repeat applications if you are outside.)

#2 - Antioxidants

Antioxidants in skin care help protect the skin against free radicals and pollutants that are found in our environment. One of my current favorites is Vitamin C. While this ingredient may be in a lot of over the counter options, this is one not to skimp on because many are not shelf stable, can be pore clogging and inflammatory in the skin.

#3 - Retinols (aka - vitamin A)

Yes, you’ve heard my back and forth through the years on this ingredient. But the skinny is that if you find a high quality product that contains retinol and doesn’t irritate your skin, USE IT! When you start using a Retinol product, let’s ease your skin into the routine. Definitely get with your Esthetician to find the right product and routine for you!

Three Internal Slowing Recommendations

#1 Reduce your stress

Again, since stress is our number one internal factor of aging, reducing this component of course would be number one! Find what helps you to reduce your stress - like meditation, yoga, breathing, etc. What works for one person, won’t necessarily work for you, so keeping trying and looking.

#2 Low stress diet

Yes, you read that right! Think high in fiber and greens and low in white stuff. Sugar creates glycation in the skin and makes the collagen and elastin brittle … which causes fine lines to become wrinkles, etc. So pay attention to what goes into your body. It will thank you for years to come in many aspects!

#3 Pay attention to your cues!

If something doesn’t feel right in your body, don’t ignore it! Address it! See your doctor, read quality articles about it, and then figure out what you can do to make small and simple changes that will help. Again, added stress in all formats will lead to faster aging.

Using both external (SPF, Antioxidants, Retinols) and internal options (stress, stress, stress - haha), you can definitely do your part in slowing what your mother and father passed down to you. Let’s do our own evaluation and see what we can do better, and then start today! I look forward to pointing you to the right direction for skin care that will work to slow your aging clock.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Le

How Long Will It Take For My Acne To Clear?

How long will it take for my acne to clear? Wow! That's a loaded question. But I will do my best to answer your question and help you get to your goal of clear, glowing skin. Let's dive right in on what we need to do to get you there as quickly as possible.

There are many factors on why you may be experiencing acne, one of which is the build up of dead skin cells. Babies skin cells turn over every 14 days. This process happens so quickly that you rarely seeing flaking or peeling on their precious skin. As you begin to age, the process of the dead skin cells sloughing away takes longer and longer. The optimal amount of time that we aim for in adulthood is 28 days for that process of the dead going away and the new skin cells reappearing. Our skin however will not be able to do this process and it's own and needs help. Exfoliation is a great way to help speed up the process to try and achieve the 28 day cycle.

What we put on the skin also affects if the skin can get rid of acne or if it makes it worse. There are many products that say that they are FOR acne that can actually aggravate acne. A couple of the ingredients that are NOT good for acne prone skin are: coconut oil, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, PPG2 myristyl proprionate, and D&C pigments to name a few. When looking at your skin care products, you'll want to focus on the first 8 ingredients in a product. These are the most important because they are the bulk of what the product contains. Cosmetics are also many times like poison on the skin and should be avoided if possible. 

Internal factors are also key here! Think stress, diet and even vitamins and supplements. Stress is the number one factor if our skin will respond to the treatment that we can do on the outside with products. Many times, clients are in school, have small children, or are experiencing a rough time in life. Our whole body responds in different ways to stress! Diet is also a contributing factor. Many will think chocolate or greasy foods, but in my research, the most important factor is the iodine content in the foods. Dairy is also considered to be a big culprit here. Vitamins and supplements are taken by many to help the skin, but too can have a negative impact. Biotin and skin vitamins are highly discouraged as they may fuel the acne to continue.

After explaining all of this to you, hopefully you understand that we become detectives in figuring out what some of the triggers may be to your skin. We work together to check every nook and cranny and to experiment. Changing up products and make sure that you include the right type of exfoliation, learning meditation to combat the stressors of life, switching vitamins and perhaps your diet and more may be part of the solution for clear skin.  Because it can take 90 days for a pimple to reach the surface of the skin, it takes a minimum 3 to 4 months to clear up the skin (if we figure out all of the triggers and can make the necessary corrections)... because each skin cycle is 28 days! Receiving regular treatments with your esthetician can help to speed up the process, perform extractions on whiteheads and blackheads, and help to guide you as a mentor through this process.

If you would like to set up a consultation to review what we could do for your skin, please use the book now button. We'll go over where to start and get you a free acne booklet as a cliff notes of the right things to do and the things to avoid. Here's to the start of beautiful, clear skin with more confidence than you ever thought possible.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Can I Combat Redness?

Every face tells a story. A story of fun summer days, memorable trips and numerous smiles with laughs along the way. Your skin also will tell you what it needs, but often we are not paying attention to the cues that it gives us. If your skin looks (or feels) red, it’s time to start addressing what it is telling you. Below are four of my top suggestions to help your skin heal and take on that normal color again.

First and paramount is sun protection. Since the sun is the skin’s enemy number one, it’s important to use sunscreen everyday. Yes, each and everyday, and not just on the days when you are out. Regardless of how simple (or complex) your home care routine is, this will be your very last step. When you are regularly using SPF and continue to do so, this alone will help with the red ‘tint’ that our skin takes on.

Second is hydration! So many clients will tell me that they drink 8 glasses of water and eat all the right things. Wahoo!!! This is SO important, but the skin will get the left overs after the other organs have taken what they need. Simply put, the best way to address the skin’s needs is to apply it topically. Using professional products with high quality ingredients is exactly what the Esthetician ordered!

Third is an elimination diet (so to speak.) Remove any products that may be irritating to the skin. Specifically, if you have redness, you’ll want to remove the scrubbie exfoliants, any product that has added fragrance, and hot water to wash off your cleanser, exfoliants, and masks. Use tepid water instead (trust me on this one.) If one of your skin care products feels tingly on the skin, you may also want to consider removing it from your current line up and see if your skin does better without it.

Finally, you may want to add in a serum or concentrate that helps with redness, especially if this is your top skincare concern. Making sure that it is gentle and soothing is a must. Some may find benefit in adding a serum that works on the blood vessels of the skin, ensuring that they are not in a dilated state all of the time. Your Esthetician can help direct you to something that will fit your needs.

Did you find which one of these you need to do? Or maybe it’s all four! Let’s get your skin back to its natural baby coloring again. Are you ready?

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE