Is a Chemical Peel Right For Me?

If you have ever seen, read, or heard about someone getting a chemical peel, you may only thing of the sheets of skin peeling off of the skin. (Hey! I’m even guilty of receiving one of those.) But, I’m here to let you know that there are different types of chemical peels. Let’s go over those options … and to find out if a chemical peel is right for you!

There are different acids that are used for chemical peels that target different concerns in the skin. Generally speaking, lactic is the most mild and peels like Jessners (salicylic, glycolic, and rescorcinol) are the most aggressive. The more prepped your skin is, the less likely you are to peel or flake with a light or medium type of peel. The amount of peeling does not determine the effectiveness of the chemical peeling.

Common different acids used for chemical exfoliation are lactic, glycolic, malic, mandelic, salicylic, and resorcinol. These acids loosen and break up the glue holding dead skin cells together, revealing fresh, younger, healthy looking skin. Each acid combination will target different skin concerns like dryness, sun spots, acne, and more. I have options for EVERY skin type and EVERY skin care concern. Meaning, the chemical peel may be right for you. Those that are not good candidates are pregnant, cancer, diabetes, and other major health concerns.

If you’ve always wanted to try it, now is the right time!!! Peel season picks up in September and goes through end of April, mid May (although I offer lighter ones year round.) There may be a peel that is right for you. I can’t wait to show you wait a peel can do. There’s nothing old about a classic treatment!!!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why Should I Do a Series of Treatments?

Have you ever thought why something is recommended to be done in a series? Let’s jump right in on why many of your favorite treatments (such as chemical peels, microneedling, and even clinical facial) are best in a series.

I love health metaphors, so let’s pretend you want to get your body ready for the beach this summer. You go to the gym and do a work out. I’m sure that you rushed home, stood in front of a full length mirror, and examined your body in the mirror to see if that hour at the gym worked. Oh, you didn’t do that? Then you know it is the compound effect over time. One work out won’t change your body. One time with your trainer won’t change your body. Day after day, week after week, and month after month will make those changes that you are desiring.

As an Esthetician, I want you to get your biggest bang for your buck! And one of these ways is to offer you a series. Because we realize that doing it once won’t show you the differences. And that it’s these small improvements over time where we can see the results.

Chemical Peels

Depending on which type of peel we are doing for your skin, your current skin condition and your skin goals that you are seeking to improve, we’ll want to stack those 1-2 weeks apart, 4 weeks apart, or 6-8 weeks apart. That doesn’t mean just doing one peel, you won’t see results. But many times these build upon each other. We can do the next step up, keep it on for 10 more minutes, etc.

Microneedling

Microneedling definitely stimulates the collagen and elastin, working on fine lines and wrinkles, helping with acne scaring, and breaking up the pesky sun spots. Done in a series is always the best result. And since Rome wasn’t built in a day, neither are these changes in the skin. You can still see improvements 3 to 6 months after you’ve done this service.

Clinical Facials

I love offering clinical facials where I marry results with relaxation (because who doesn’t want to have their cake and eat it too!) These facials are where we are targeting your skin care concern. If you love what we do in the treatment room, we can also do these in a series to amplify your results.

If you aren’t ready to commit to a series, let’s start somewhere. Hooking you up with the best home care routine is where I like to start because you see yourself daily. (wink, wink) Let’s be consistent and set up an appointment schedule you are comfortable with at the spa. Can’t wait to help you achieve results!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Acids in a Nutshell

Chemical peels are always popular and great to do in the winter time. These contain acids to help dissolve the 'glue' that holds the dead skin cells together. It's important that the chemicals you do with your esthetician or dermatologist/plastic surgeon are working only on the dead skin level and that they do not go into the living skin cells.

Each acid has a job to do and target different skin concerns. While we know that chemical peels contain them, what you might not have known is that they are commonly added into cleansers, serums and more that you can use at home. In a lower concentration, they may be right for your skin. 

So how can I tell the acids apart? Which ones are most common? Here is a little description on the most common acids you might find in your products and what they will do for the skin.

Lactic Acid is considered the most gentle of acids because it is the largest molecule size. That means that it can't penetrate too deep. While it mainly targets dry, dull and lack luster skin, this is suitable to start off most clients with this type of peel to see how your individual skin will react to the acids.

Most of us will think back to the Romans, who were known for taking milk baths. Their beautiful, glowing skin was silky and soft. Who wouldn't want that?

Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule size and most clients feel this type of peel because it can go further into the skin, making it more active. This acid comes from sugar cane and is very effective at treating breakouts, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles. It stimulates the collagen and elastin fibers to awake and get working, which is a huge bonus for those of us who want to work on aging skin!

One of my favorite award winning peels is the GM Collin Derm Renewal, which combines the powers of Lactic and Gycolic Acids. A series of this peel will work to even out the surface layers of the skin by improving texture, reducing visible signs of aging and brightening the skin.

Salicyclic Acid comes from willow bark and is most common known and used for acne. It is a BHA (Beta Hydroxy acid) and works to loosen and soften dry, scaly skin while reducing oilness, acne and photo-aging. Salicyclic Acid goes into the pores flushing out the dirt, oil, and debris that can cause blackheads, whiteheads, and enlarged pores.

While this is a typical acne product, it's important to remember that it is drying on the skin. This is great, but some clients take it too far. Work with your Esthetician to find the balance in your skin while ridding the skin of acne. Because skin that feels dry will signal back to the cells to produce more oil. 

Mandelic Acid derived from bitter almond is also a great acid and works on many skin types. It is actually one of my favorite acids in treating acne because it can treat all types of acne, such as folliculitis. Its antibacterial properties make it suitable for acne clients, while also making it appropriate for clients that are working on pigmentation and the damage that the skin causes to our skin.

The Salicyclic Peel in the GM Collin line actually has more Mandelic Acid in it than Salicylic. Again, the combining forces of these acids (along with the Glycolic Acid) make it powerful, yet gentle on the skin.

Chemicals have been used for years and will continue to be a popular treatment for clients because of their effectiveness. The percentage of acids in products is important to note, while the professional products will usually have a higher amount (as well as being higher up in the ingredient list.) The number is not everything, however. Make sure that you work with your Esthetician to find the right balance for you and your skin!

Mask-ne Solutions for You at the Spa - Part III

The newest problem to hit the states is called Mask-ne, a form of acne that starts and mostly stays in the mask area. The previous post called Do You Have Mask-ne really delves into what this is. And last week's post Mask-ne Solutions for Everyone really is for everyone: how to keep clean and beautiful skin while in a pandemic. 

Now that you know what it is and some general solutions, let me offer a couple of solutions (both in the treatment room and home care products) that will help make it better. In the spa, we can use a variety of technologies such as LED, HydroGlow, and Chemical Peels. Of course, if you've never had a spa treatment, let me know and we will get you set up with the one that will work best for you after a consultation.  This blog post will focus on the modalities I can use at your appointment, and the next blog post will focus on home care options. Stay tuned!

LED

LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. These have been around since the 1960s, but have only recently become popular. Each color of LED is a different wavelength and treats certain concerns of the skin. Red is primarily for anti-aging, green for sensitivity and redness, yellow for hyperpigmentation, and infrared for inflammation. The main function of the blue LED light is to kill the p (or c) acne bacteria. This bacteria is present on everyone's skin, but there are many, many more on someone that suffers from acne. Blue light also reduces redness and irritation while combatting current and future breakouts. Red light has also shown great improvements for acne clients. This light aims to work on the collagen and elastin in the skin, while calming, soothing, and reducing inflammation. 

HydroGlow

The HydroGlow Treatment is a new treatment in 2020 to Essential Esthetics by Zoey. What is it exactly? It is hydrodermabrasion. Essentially it is an exfoliation treatment similar to microdermabrasion (using vacuum technology), but performing the service with serums and creating a wet treatment. This one sucks out impurities of the skin while pushing in serums just for you to hydrate, purify and detox the face. It feels so clean and literally glowing. Clients are loving this popular service!

Chemical Peels

Chemical Peels often sound scary to clients, but they don't have to be. I offer 3 different levels of peels that exfoliate the skin effectively, which will help speed up the dead skin cell turnover, making acne much more manageable. The first level are ones that have zero downtime. Everything works on a cellular level. So even though you don't necessarily see skin flaking or peeling, it is still working. The second level is a micro peel where there may be slight flaking and peeling. The amount is individualized depending on what you are currently doing in your home care routine. Most clients find that there is no need to take time off of work (especially because we are currently wearing masks everywhere.) And the third level (which I call the mother of all peels) is the Elaine Brennan Skin Renewal Peeling System, which creates the skin to come off in sheets generally between 7 to 10 days after the peel. This only is working on the dead skin cells, not the living skin cells, so it is very safe, but may require a couple days of 'downtime' where you wouldn't want to be in public.

All of these modalities may be used in conjunction with each other or by themselves. It's all dependent on your goals, the severity of your skin conditions, and really what sounds best for you! I will always work with you to come up with the best solutions that meet your needs and lifestyle. Let's connect in the treatment room to help you change your skin today!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do You Keep Your Skin Smooth?

As an esthetician, I love treating clients to all services, including lash lifts, waxing, and facials. When I do a facial treatment, many times I am surprised at the texture of the skin. It may not look rough, but upon touch, it really is rough! So if many clients have this problem, how do we solve it? I would like to offer two recommendations today. One is to exfoliate at home and the other is to have regular treatments that focus on exfoliation.

Exfoliation at home

There are three types of exfoliation - mechanical, chemical and enzymatic. I love all three. Mechanical are the scrubbing action that has a little grit (No Karen! Walk away from the St. Ives Apricot Scrub), chemical is acids (such as the Cleopatra bathing in milk which is lactic acid keeping the skin smooth and soft), and enzymatic (comes from fruits - most common in my experience is papaya and pineapple). 

Your skin type determines which is better for you! If you are aging, have broken blood vessels, sensitive skin or inflamed acne, do not use mechanical exfoliation. The chemical and enzymatic exfoliation comes in mask form. The enzymatic is much more gentle on the skin. Seek direction and guidance from your esthetician to determine which type is right for you and they will help you select a product. 

Spa Treatments that focus on exfoliation

There are many spa treatments that focus on exfoliation. Two that I will mention today are dermaplaning as chemical peels.

Dermaplaning is a clients favorite and known for the instant glow you receive, the smooth application of makeup and increased circulation of the skin. Clients remark that they can feel the air on their face differently (in a better way of course.) Products applied after you do this professional treatment really go into the skin better because they don't have to fight against the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Using a dermatological scalpel, the blade will gently glide back and forth on the skin primarily picking up and removing dead skin cells. It also will take off any peach fuzz on your face which does 'dull' your color. This results in that instant glow! (PS - Remember that you need to stop exfoliating before you come in and not exfoliate for 3 to 5 days after you come for your service! Otherwise, you'll make your skin feel more sensitive.)

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are very effective to do. A chemical exfoliation loosens the glue that holds the dead skin cells together, much like how a brick wall is held together with mortar. Chemical peels have come a long way in their days. Physicians began using deeper peels in 1882 using resorcinol, TCA, salicylic and phenol. These peels were very deep and aggressive. The peels we use today are superficial peels, meaning that they are working solely on the epidermis. A chemical exfoliation does not need to cause flaking and peeling to be working. New technology allows for peels to work without having downtime. It is also important to note that if you are taking care of your skin by regularly doing the right home exfoliation, you will not see a lot of dead skin cells coming off because you are doing an efficient job removing them on a weekly basis. So give yourself a high five!

A chemical peel comes from acids in either AHA or BHA. AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acids and BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acids. Lactic, glycolic, tartaric, citric, and malic acids are AHAs. Salicylic acid is a BHA. (You'll also note that these acids are also used in home care too!) Some of my favorite benefits from a chemical exfoliation are improved texture of the skin, barrier function, and moisture retention; increased hydration of the skin; reduced fine lines and wrinkles; improved acne and clogged pores; and skin that looks and feels smoother and softer.  

All of the clinical treatments offered by GM Collin can be performed with a chemical peel. My favorite to do with the peel is the AlgoMask. This has a thermal cooling effect on the skin that also pushes the serum deeper into the epidermis with it's rubberizing mask (did you just mention Mrs. DoubtFire?) Your skin feels different for days. This was the first GM Collin clinical facial that I received and BOY ... it did not disappoint. All peels by GM Collin are formulated to work without causing the traditional downtime. This means that you can see results without having to hide your skin for a week.

By choosing to do both exfoliation at home and services in the treatment room, you are sure to get the best of both worlds. Professional products at home are going to also get you a head start on your skin, improving the texture and giving you a healthy, beautiful glow to the skin. Working with your esthetician will help to train your skin to be the best that it can by slowing down the aging process.