The Top Three Hardest Skin Concerns to Fix

When you fill out the Client Intake form as a new client, you'll see that I ask you this question. What would you like to change about your skin? There are options of common ones to address as well as a fill in the blank spot too. I really like to tailor each appointment to your skin care needs. Say you are coming in for waxing, but have something you want to ask me about your face. The time is yours and we can definitely use it to help you get ideas on things we could do inside and outside of the spa.

While we each would like to improve the appearance and health of our skin, I've found over the years that there are three concerns that are the hardest to fix. They are: Hyperpigmentation, Acne, and Dark Circles under the eyes. Below is a brief overview of why I have selected these as my top three.

Hyperpigmentation

Sun spots, liver spots, melasma, and pregnancy butterfly masks... I'm going to group them all in this spot under hyperpigmentation. The changes that occur with the melanin (the color) in the skin are connected to hormones. This is an internal issue and takes time to ease them away ... and then trying to keep them at bay is a whole 'nother ball of wax. In short, make sure that your hormones are balanced, then choose to either suppress the spots (products that contain more natural or more chemical ingredients) or bring them out (think laser treatments and deeper chemical peels.)

Acne

This issue and skin problem is one of my very favorite. The type of acne and the causes range greatly. I love becoming an acne detective with each client. The roots of the problems may not be able to changed. For example, 83% of acne has a genetic link to it. But, the aggravators can be eliminated or minimized. However, some acne clients will take steps to correct their problems, but after the skin starts clearing, they will not continue those actions that worked so well. This makes it one of the more difficult condition to treat.

Dark Circles under the eyes

This is the third condition that I see a lot of and that clients would like to change. This one as well can be genetic ... but diet can also play a role. Making sure that your digestion system is working properly is a key here. Also, using eye serums and creams that continue vitamin k and caffeine can also help to minimize the appearance of having dark circles (and even puffiness) under the eyes. 

If any of these skin conditions hit home with you, let's discuss your concerns and the best solutions for you at your next appointment. I know that as we work together, that we'll help you make progress to reach your skin care goals.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

February Delight - Chocolate Masque

One of the things in our skin care line up that is highly underrated are facial masques (sometimes spelled masks.) In general, masques are products that you leave on the skin for up to 20 minutes. They are packed with ingredients that help with your skin concern, whether that be acne, large pores, rosacea, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, dryness, oilness, etc. This list goes on and on. Truly.

Often, we skip this step, because who has 20 minutes. Or even 10 minutes these days! Or do we. If you have watched one episode on Netflix, Hulu, Disney Plus, or Amazon Prime, then I know you have time!!!

This month, I invite you to try something fun for the holiday. It's called the Chocolate Power Skin Rescue Masque by GlyMed Plus. This masque increases firmness and elasticity, reduces pigmentation, plumps, and lifts and firms. It is incredible for those seeking anti-aging. It also smells DIVINE and I would consider this to be a fun one to try just because it's FEBRUARY. It can be used for normal, dry, oily or combination.

It's best to be used at night (due to the thermal benefits that heat up and then cool down, increasing the blood flow) and will give your tired skin a kick start and boost! It includes cocoa, acai, reservatrol, jojoba, and papin. This masque is only left on the skin for 7 to 12 minutes. You may want to start with 7 minutes and each time you put on go up a minute or two. More is not always better, so please don't exceed the 12 minutes. Also, do not use it more than 3 times a week. 

Make time for things that are important to you! Make time for self care and self love! This extra step on a regular basis could show your skin what it's been missing out on. I challenge you to try a mask and watch your skin improve.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Am I Over Exfoliating My Skin?

Exfoliating the skin has many benefits. As you remove the dead skin cell layer, you reveal the fresh new skin underneath. This skin has a healthy glow and appears more youthful. Products penetrate the skin better. Makeup application glides on much easier. The texture of the skin also feel much more smooth to you and your Esthetician.

But what happens if you do more exfoliation? Can there be too much of a good thing? 

Are you guilty (like I have been) of knowing that you don't have to 'feel' a product on the skin to know that it's working but still wanting to 'feel' it? We, as Americans, get sucked into that trap of wanting to feel the tingle or the burn. Or maybe this describes you... If your Esthetician recommends that you let the product sit for 10 minutes, you do 15 minutes just to make sure it was enough. Or if you are instructed to use twice a week, you do four times for good measure. If this is you, I'm here to share some exciting news! More is not always better. This is one of my skin care philosophies. Do not be fooled into thinking doing the steps for longer or more frequent is helping your skin.

In fact, it can be quite the opposite. The acid mantle of the skin is delicate and needs to be balanced. As we age, our own exfoliation processes slow down and needs more help from us to remove the dead skin cells. But if we exfoliate more than our skin needs, it may turn red, feel irritated, break out, etc. 'Listen' to what your skin is telling you. Do you actually need more? Each skin type will benefit from a different type of exfoliation as well as a different schedule for exfoliating the skin.

In general, here are some key points:

Younger skin needs less exfoliation

Those with acne will want to avoid harsh scrubs

Sensitive skin types need to be extra choosy about what type of exfoliation that they use

Follow the recommended exfoliation schedule (both how often and how long when applying to the skin)

When you are tempted to put on that exfoliator for longer or to scrub harder, just remember 'More is not always better.' Stick with what you know you need and you will see improvements in your skin! 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How to Step Up Your Winter Skin Care Routine

It seems as if every year, my skin screams just a little louder when the cold winter air starts appearing. I'm convinced that it is age and the slowing down of the repair systems that our skin uses when it heals at night. I sure didn't notice this when I was 18, but now that I'm 29 (wink, wink), I am noticing more and more with each passing year.

Does this strike a cord with you too? Are you noticing that your skin feels different in the winter? And all of the seasons for that matter. Read on to get three simple tips for helping your skin maintain it's hydration levels during the colder months.

#1 - Check out Your Exfoliation Schedule

I hope you are already exfoliating your skin on a normal basis. If not, let's definitely talk. Make sure that you beef up your exfoliation routine. Depending on what exfoliation you are doing, you should be using this a MINIMUM  of once a week (even twice) all the way up to every day. Consult with your Esthetician on how often you should be applying your exfoliant. This will always depend on what type you are using and how your skin typically is along with how it acts in the wintertime. 

Regardless, pick days that you always exfoliate and stick to your schedule religiously.

#2 - Use Your Serums or Concentrates

Alright ladies! This step may not be in the most simplified of routines (those 3 steppers out there - cleanse, tone, moisturizer.) But I'm telling you, if you were to use a serum at any time of the year, winter is THE time to do this. A serum's molecule size is much smaller than a moisturizer. What does that mean? It means that a serum or concentrate can penetrate the skin on a deeper level, providing much needed moisture and balance. 

Basically, if you aren't already using a serum or concentrate, please start today. Do it every morning... and every night. Watch your skin soak in the awesomeness (yes - that's a word)!

#3 - Evaluate Your Current Moisturizer

Take a look at your current moisturizer. Is this going to be a thick enough/ heavy enough product for you to ward off the force hot air inside and the cold crisp air we feel outside? It is not uncommon for clients to make a switch in the winter months to something that's a little more decadent on their skin. While you may be able to get away with the lightest weight moisturizer in the spring and summer, you may not be able to in the winter.

Pull out the moisturizer and really evaluate if this will do the best for your skin come December. It's really okay to put away the other moisturizer and pick up a luxurious option for the winter. You can come back to your favorite come springtime!

So there you go! Three easy options that can help your skin combat the harsh winter months ahead. Stay warm, stay healthy, and stay glowing!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Acids in a Nutshell

Chemical peels are always popular and great to do in the winter time. These contain acids to help dissolve the 'glue' that holds the dead skin cells together. It's important that the chemicals you do with your esthetician or dermatologist/plastic surgeon are working only on the dead skin level and that they do not go into the living skin cells.

Each acid has a job to do and target different skin concerns. While we know that chemical peels contain them, what you might not have known is that they are commonly added into cleansers, serums and more that you can use at home. In a lower concentration, they may be right for your skin. 

So how can I tell the acids apart? Which ones are most common? Here is a little description on the most common acids you might find in your products and what they will do for the skin.

Lactic Acid is considered the most gentle of acids because it is the largest molecule size. That means that it can't penetrate too deep. While it mainly targets dry, dull and lack luster skin, this is suitable to start off most clients with this type of peel to see how your individual skin will react to the acids.

Most of us will think back to the Romans, who were known for taking milk baths. Their beautiful, glowing skin was silky and soft. Who wouldn't want that?

Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule size and most clients feel this type of peel because it can go further into the skin, making it more active. This acid comes from sugar cane and is very effective at treating breakouts, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles. It stimulates the collagen and elastin fibers to awake and get working, which is a huge bonus for those of us who want to work on aging skin!

One of my favorite award winning peels is the GM Collin Derm Renewal, which combines the powers of Lactic and Gycolic Acids. A series of this peel will work to even out the surface layers of the skin by improving texture, reducing visible signs of aging and brightening the skin.

Salicyclic Acid comes from willow bark and is most common known and used for acne. It is a BHA (Beta Hydroxy acid) and works to loosen and soften dry, scaly skin while reducing oilness, acne and photo-aging. Salicyclic Acid goes into the pores flushing out the dirt, oil, and debris that can cause blackheads, whiteheads, and enlarged pores.

While this is a typical acne product, it's important to remember that it is drying on the skin. This is great, but some clients take it too far. Work with your Esthetician to find the balance in your skin while ridding the skin of acne. Because skin that feels dry will signal back to the cells to produce more oil. 

Mandelic Acid derived from bitter almond is also a great acid and works on many skin types. It is actually one of my favorite acids in treating acne because it can treat all types of acne, such as folliculitis. Its antibacterial properties make it suitable for acne clients, while also making it appropriate for clients that are working on pigmentation and the damage that the skin causes to our skin.

The Salicyclic Peel in the GM Collin line actually has more Mandelic Acid in it than Salicylic. Again, the combining forces of these acids (along with the Glycolic Acid) make it powerful, yet gentle on the skin.

Chemicals have been used for years and will continue to be a popular treatment for clients because of their effectiveness. The percentage of acids in products is important to note, while the professional products will usually have a higher amount (as well as being higher up in the ingredient list.) The number is not everything, however. Make sure that you work with your Esthetician to find the right balance for you and your skin!

An Estheticians Perspective on Yearly Skin Exams

Even though I've been in the spa industry since 2009, I had actually never had a skin exam before this year. Here's the thing. I pay attention to my skin, and nothing really had grabbed my attention. So imagine my surprise when (after using a new to me mask one day), the next day a spot appeared out of nowhere. Add in there that it happened to be on my forehead. Bummer!

I had already decided that 2020 was the year. But then covid hit. And all the things became just another thing. I reached high in the closet to grab my esthetics book... and also turned to trusty google. (Yes, your esthetician does this too.) I immediately crossed off the Melanoma ... which gave me peace of mind. It really didn't fit the basal cell or the squamous cell carcinoma characteristics. At this point, I had already made my appointment to see the dermatologist and those 2 weeks couldn't come fast enough.

Once I arrived to my appointment, the medical assistant had me strip down to my undies and change into a gown to cover. (Yes ladies. Make sure you wear them so you don't have to be in your birthday suit. Haha!) The Doctor (or Physician's Assistant or even Nurse Practitioner) had on a light with the loops (which are magnifiers to see things more up close and personal.) After looking at my skin, he said that it was Actinic Keratosis (a pre cancer spot that shows up like a rough patch of dead skin.) 

My options were to get it frozen off or to use a cream for roughly 2 weeks. I chose the cream, which my doctor also told me that I could use if I saw any other spots arise. About 6 weeks later, I had a follow up to check that spot and got the all clear. 

My suggestions are to make sure that you are aware of your skin and to note changes. Have regular skin exams so your doctor find things early, which is key to any type of cancer. I have also sent clients that come in for regular facials to the dermatologists because of changes to their skin. So it also helps to have someone else helping you look out for these irregularities. Don't be nervous because this is what they do all day, everyday. And make sure that you speak up with concerns and questions at your appointment. Don't delay is caring for yourself. THAT is truly self care.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go, Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Mask-ne Solutions for You at Home - Part IV

The things you do at home, have the biggest compound effect because you are able to do skin care workouts daily. I like to liken your facial visits with the gym and a trainer. When you go to the gym and see a trainer, they will set you up with a program. It's your job to continue going back to the gym in between your training sessions. If you don't do the homework, your trainer will never be able to help you break into the next level. And isn't that the reason why you are seeing a trainer? I can definitely help set your skin up for success by offering tools and 'home care workouts' to do in between seeing me. With any skin care goal that you have, we can start a new program all together or maybe add in one exercise that will pack a big punch.

First things first. You need to be cleansing your skin and you need to use a moisturizer. These two are pretty basic and the first things that I encourage my clients to do. If you aren't doing those things, let's talk. If you are doing those exercises and ready to add in the next thing, let's talk ingredients that will jumping up to the next level.  I love using benzoyl peroxide, oxygen ingredients, probiotics, and the favorite product of 2020 called Fulvic Elixir. Check out below more information on all of these options.

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide kills the c acne bacteria (formerly called p acne). This ingredient can be an amazing 'spot treatment' of sorts to help your skin get over the blemishes that you are experiencing. This ingredient can be drying and is not for everyone. To effectively spot treat, you must treat the microcomedones that you don't see yet. (The pimples below the surface of the skin that haven't made it through yet.) Instead of just dabbing product right on the pimples themselves, you want to treat a little above and below where you typically are seeing the acne pop up. So if you get pimples along the jawline, treat 1/2 inch above and a 1/2 below that area.

Oxygen

Seems like a simple solution, doesn't it? For acne sufferers, inside the pores, the dead skin cells sluff off at an accelerated rate and get stuck inside the pore. If you can get more oxygen in the pores, it will increase circulation and promote wound healing in those areas. The c acnes are anaerobic, which means they live off of areas without air. Another great way to kill off those pesky bacteria on the skin.

Probiotics

We know the power of probiotics in helping fight off bad bacteria, while promoting the good ones. Probiotics have been used in skin care for years, but it is currently becoming a buzz word in the industry. This is a great, gentle way to help speed up the healing while fighting off the acne that comes from the mask. Look for skincare that has probiotics added to their line up of acids and other acne fighting ingredients.

Fulvic Elixir

Oh my! What can I say about this particular product? It is AMAZING and I don't want to go without it. A fellow esthetician, Tracy, said, "Let me put it this way. If I could bathe in it, I would!" I feel the same. This serum is lightweight, has an incredible smell, is anti bacterial, anti fungal, anti inflammatory PLUS it also has anti aging properties in it and hydrates. All at the same time. Yep! It's my favorite for 2020!

Fulvic acid is one of the most powerful antioxidants and rapidly heals, soothes, and prevents scarring. Other key ingredients include Agastache Mexicana Flower (love to say that word!), Calendula, Aloe Vera, Grapefruit Peel, Orange Peel, and Chamomile. It's a strong line up to help your skin stay hydrated and smooth while preventing acne and promoting healing. Are you ready to get yours?

Think about the products that you are currently using right now. Are they helping you achieve the results that you want? If so, great! If not, let's see what we can change up to get the right ingredients on your skin today.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

Mask-ne Solutions for You at the Spa - Part III

The newest problem to hit the states is called Mask-ne, a form of acne that starts and mostly stays in the mask area. The previous post called Do You Have Mask-ne really delves into what this is. And last week's post Mask-ne Solutions for Everyone really is for everyone: how to keep clean and beautiful skin while in a pandemic. 

Now that you know what it is and some general solutions, let me offer a couple of solutions (both in the treatment room and home care products) that will help make it better. In the spa, we can use a variety of technologies such as LED, HydroGlow, and Chemical Peels. Of course, if you've never had a spa treatment, let me know and we will get you set up with the one that will work best for you after a consultation.  This blog post will focus on the modalities I can use at your appointment, and the next blog post will focus on home care options. Stay tuned!

LED

LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. These have been around since the 1960s, but have only recently become popular. Each color of LED is a different wavelength and treats certain concerns of the skin. Red is primarily for anti-aging, green for sensitivity and redness, yellow for hyperpigmentation, and infrared for inflammation. The main function of the blue LED light is to kill the p (or c) acne bacteria. This bacteria is present on everyone's skin, but there are many, many more on someone that suffers from acne. Blue light also reduces redness and irritation while combatting current and future breakouts. Red light has also shown great improvements for acne clients. This light aims to work on the collagen and elastin in the skin, while calming, soothing, and reducing inflammation. 

HydroGlow

The HydroGlow Treatment is a new treatment in 2020 to Essential Esthetics by Zoey. What is it exactly? It is hydrodermabrasion. Essentially it is an exfoliation treatment similar to microdermabrasion (using vacuum technology), but performing the service with serums and creating a wet treatment. This one sucks out impurities of the skin while pushing in serums just for you to hydrate, purify and detox the face. It feels so clean and literally glowing. Clients are loving this popular service!

Chemical Peels

Chemical Peels often sound scary to clients, but they don't have to be. I offer 3 different levels of peels that exfoliate the skin effectively, which will help speed up the dead skin cell turnover, making acne much more manageable. The first level are ones that have zero downtime. Everything works on a cellular level. So even though you don't necessarily see skin flaking or peeling, it is still working. The second level is a micro peel where there may be slight flaking and peeling. The amount is individualized depending on what you are currently doing in your home care routine. Most clients find that there is no need to take time off of work (especially because we are currently wearing masks everywhere.) And the third level (which I call the mother of all peels) is the Elaine Brennan Skin Renewal Peeling System, which creates the skin to come off in sheets generally between 7 to 10 days after the peel. This only is working on the dead skin cells, not the living skin cells, so it is very safe, but may require a couple days of 'downtime' where you wouldn't want to be in public.

All of these modalities may be used in conjunction with each other or by themselves. It's all dependent on your goals, the severity of your skin conditions, and really what sounds best for you! I will always work with you to come up with the best solutions that meet your needs and lifestyle. Let's connect in the treatment room to help you change your skin today!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Mask-ne Solutions For Everyone

Whether you are currently experience mask-ne or not, these general tips are for everyone! Let's talk about mask hygiene and what you can do during these times to keep healthy skin. 

Mask hygiene

The first you may have noticed as you walk around the grocery store or eat at a restaurant. Do you see everyone fiddling and adjusting their masks? The number one no-no would be to stop touching your face. As soon as you have placed your mask on your face, leave it alone. This means that you need to find a mask that is going to fit your face properly and doesn't slide or move too much while you are talking.

Replacing masks

How often should you change out your mask? That all depends on how well your skin is doing while wearing one, but let me suggest that you change out at least once a day. Start with a new one in the morning. By the end of the day, you'll want to wash it if it's a reusable mask or replace it if it's a disposable medical mask. 

Washing cloth masks

Another thing that we need to be aware of is how to properly care for our cloth and reusable masks. When you breathe, talk, etc. there will be germs that will collect nicely in the masks and it's important that you wash them. I suggest using a very gentle laundry detergent without fabric softeners, dryer sheets, etc as these can aggravate the skin. They definitely aggravate acne. Line drying is best if possible. 

Storing Masks

Are you guilty of sticking your mask in the cup holder of your car as soon as you are done from the store? Or shoving it in your purse or diaper bag? I think many of us can say yes. After you are done using your mask, place it in a sandwich baggie or something that will protect it from everything else it may be around. This will help keep it cleaner and more sanitary. Which means that our skin will not be as exposed a random crumb, tube of makeup, or whatever may be where your mask goes.

Cleansing the skin

This should go without speaking, but your skin can reflect how you treat it. Now more than ever, it is so important to cleanse the skin properly. Use any cleanser and massage the skin for about 60 seconds. Rinse with lukewarm water and then gently wipe with a wet cloth to remove the final dirt, oil, etc. When appropriate, do a double cleanse. This means to cleanse twice in a row. Ideally, you would do this twice a day, but if you do it once, do it at night. In the morning, wipe with a wet cloth or rinse with water in the shower 

Hydrate the skin

The skin will need adequate hydration while wearing masks. While it is important to drink water daily, this is oftentimes not enough. Hyaluronic acid is a great ingredient to help keep the skin's water content happy. If you have a moisturize you love, but it doesn't seem to be cutting the mustard right now, you may need to switch to something heavier. You can also double up (like wearing a coat that has a liner - wear both) by using a serum or concentrate plus a moisturizer. When in doubt, talk to your esthetician.  

Do not wear makeup

If you can, please skip the full face makeup, especially foundation. Because there is a lack of oxygen while wearing a mask, further covering the skin will not do you any favors. Play up the eyes and eyebrows with something fun. Even try a lash lift or eyelash extensions to make it easy and to bring attention to those baby blues or gorgeous browns. 

When appropriate, take mask breaks 

If you are able to maintain 6 feet distance and it follows with government regulations, consider taking a mask break. Even a little oxygen to the skin will help keep your skin happy.

Taking all of these suggestions into consideration will help you to maintain and achieve healthy skin. You may need to add one of these into your daily practice. Some people will need to do them all to get there. Your esthetician is here to walk through other suggestions if needed. Stay tuned for at home solutions and spa treatments to treat Mask-ne.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Do you have Mask-ne? Part I

Over the years, there have been several terms coined... Back-ne (acne on the back), Make-ne (makeup acne), and now we are hearing about Mask-ne. If you haven't already guessed, it is acne from wearing a mask. Estheticians around the world are seeing a huge increase in acne cases on the cheek, chin, and lip areas. 

Why is this happening? While wearing a mask, 3 main culprits occur that aggravate those that are prone to having acne. These are friction, heat/humidity, and lack of oxygen to the skin. 

Friction

Friction has been known to cause acne for years. The term that is used to describe this is called acne mechanica. This occurs due to pressure and friction on the skin. For example, a catcher that has acne around the face mask, a football player on the shoulders, or a polo player's chin strap. Even wearing a backpack, bra, etc where pressure results can cause acne to occur in those areas. 

Heat and Humidity

Heat and humidity is a recipe for disaster. If you look at different climates, you will see this. Dr. James E. Fulton dedicated his life to seeking out treatments for the disease of acne. During his research, he found that acne had a higher prevalence in the Carribean, places like Miami and gulf coast cities.  He speculated that the reason why heat and humidity play a role had to do with the excessive water content in the skin that could cause swelling inside the follicle, breaking down the structure. 

Lack of Oxygen

Lack of oxygen is another trigger for mask-ne. When we look at the skin, it is important that air can flow into and out of the pore. When skin cells are sloughing off, the oxygen helps to keep the p (or c) acne bacteria from reproducing at an astronomical rate. In general, more acne occurs on the face due to the natural of the pores, sebum, etc. than on the body. So even though we wear clothing all year round, our faces are not normally covered.  

Unfortunately, when wearing a mask, we are seeing the recipe of having all 3 -friction, heat/humidity, and lack of oxygen ... which is essentially a buffet for the bacteria to spread and reek havoc on the skin. 

Whenever I see clients for acne, we work together becoming detectives to find out what might be the cause of the flare ups. If you diet is full of high salt, we limit or cut out those foods. If stress is the biggest aggravator, we work on incorporating yoga, deep breathing, and meditation to your life routine. The easiest way to help clear the skin would be to stop wearing a mask. In this world that we live in, that is not currently a possibility.

Stay tuned for the next blog posts where we talk about the solutions! These will be broken down into general solutions, plus treatment room and home care products that will help make the Mask-ne better. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

The Power of Exfoliation and Serums with HydroGlow

I hope that you know by now that I am a huge fan of exfoliating the skin and using a serum or concentrate. Here's why there is magic and power in the combination of using both! You get both in the NEW service being offer at Essential Esthetics by Zoey with the HydroGlow. 

Exfoliating the skin means that you are gently helping the skin to eliminate, remove, and dissolve the dead skin cells off the top of the skin. While there are many ways of doing this, the main two that are recognized are ones with the scrubbies and ones without that go on the skin like a mask. The mechanical exfoliation removes dead skin cells by knocking off the top bricks of that wall. The exfoliation with are either chemical or enzymes that work by eating away the mortar of our brick wall (the lipids and proteins that are keeping the dead skin cells connected.) Exfoliate the skin properly, and you'll notice that you have a more healthy glow.

Using a serum or concentrate on the skin can make a dramatic impact on the skin. And here's why! The molecule size of the serum is smaller, which simply means that it can penetrate deeper. Many serums are a thinner consistency, which further helps them reach down in the skin. Serums and concentrates can work on any skin concern. But, if you are concerned about acne, don't choose one that is an anti-aging serum (though we all want to slow down our aging process.) Pick a serum that is going to help with YOUR top skin care goal!

So why is there magic in using both exfoliation with a serum? Well, this powerful duo will workto FIRST remove the dead skin cells of your face to allow the serum that you are using to really do its job and not lay topically on the surface of the skin. The serum that could go down to x layer will now be able to go even one step further, landing a bigger knock out punch!

The HydroGlow Treatment will use the serums in each step of your service - the cleansing, exfoliating, extraction and hydration process. Using the suction in hydrodermabrasion, you are using exfoliation for the skin in each step as well, which works to get rid of clogged pores and revealing the youthful appearance of the skin.

Incorporating both exfoliation and serums both at home and in the treatment room is a winning combination that I can't wait to show you! Meet you back at the spa soon!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

What is Hydrodermabrasion?

There are so many buzz words in the skin care industry. In fact, in January this year, I posted another blog post entitled Deciphering Between New Skin Treatments. This article talked about these different services: Microneedling, Nanoneedling, Dermaplaning and Microblading and how to keep them straight. Hydrodermabrasion is also a treatment that has been around for awhile, but is gaining popularity among facial clients. So let's talk about what it is, what it feels like, and who is a candidate to receive this results oriented facial.

So what is Hydrodermabrasion? 

Hydrodermabrasion is called Hydroderm for short and is an exfoliating treatment utilizing a machine with suction and serums and saline. There are many different machines for the esthetician to use, but the concept is the same. You use a wand that uses suction (vacuum) and serums (saline) at the same time. These serums are used to target whatever skin condition the client is looking to improve. 

The benefits of this services are wide ranging. In general though, when you exfoliate the skin properly and on a regular basis, the skin will have a more youthful appearance. This is because when you gently remove dead skin cells on the skin, you are showing off the newer skin underneath. The products that you use on your skin will be able to do their job 100% instead of laying topically and just sitting on top of the dead skin cells. Hydroderm will help remove blackhead, clear clogged pores, even skin tone and texture, improve hydration, and give the skin a glow.

What does it feel like?

This service is one that clients always say makes their skin feel 'cool.' The use of the vacuum and serums at the same time are very effective on the skin. I sometimes describe this as powerwashing the deck. So you'll feel the suction and the wetness as the serums come out of one tube and then are sucked back in with another. The suction not only takes the serums and saline, but the dead skin cells and debris on the skin can also be sucked into the waste tank. It's also a fun experience for clients to see what landed there as well.

Who is hydroderm recommended for?

Almost all clients can benefit for this service. If you have cystic acne, rosacea, or very thin skin, this may not be the best facial treatment to receive. But the suction can be turned down a little and the serums can always be customized, which makes this service not a cookie cutter one. Make sure to ask your esthetician what would be best for you and your skin care goals that you are trying to reach. 

Are you excited to try out something new and see your skin begin to improve? Ask your esthetician if you could benefit from this facial and let's schedule it today!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Does Picking At Zits Make It Worse?

For many of those who suffer from acne, there are also many other side affects from this disease. I think we've all been there where we are watching TV, just sitting at a stoplight, and waiting in a drive through. All of a sudden our hand reaches up to our jawline, chin, forehead, etc. and finds a bump. What could that be? Could it be a pimple??? You run to the mirror or pull down your visor mirror in your car and see that it is indeed one of these nasty little boogers. Sigh! You tell yourself to leave it alone, but once you know that it's there, you can't seem to stop touching it. 

One extreme condition for this is called Acne Excoriee which means that the person continues to pick and scrape subconsciously usually with their fingernails the areas that have acne. This can cause bleeding, scarring, or the skin to make a pink or purple mark called hyperpigmentation. If this is you, please ask for help! We'll dive in together and if you need a referral, I will help you get this as well.

Whether you are picking consciously or subconsciously, one thing is true. Picking at pimples can make it worse. Acne is caused by having three things... 1) having p. bacteria present on the skin, 2) a build up of dead skin cells, and 3) having an excess amount of sebum production. You must have all these to have acne.

When you try to remove pimples from the skin, you can unknowingly spread the p bacteria (now referred to as c bacteria) on the skin. The fluid coming out of the pustule can spread over the face. Have you ever had a pimple that you know is ready, but when you go to pop that one, nothing happens? Well, something did happen! That same fluid can spread underneath the skin like sewage, spreading more bacteria everywhere under the skin.

But it's so hard to leave my skin alone!!! Oh sister! I know it! But if I could promise you clearer, healthier looking skin, would you do it? Let me point you to my 7 Day No Pick Challenge! Here's how it works! You commit to keeping your hands off of your face for 7 full days. That means you can do your cleansing routine but nothing else. Find out if there is a time or a trigger that causes you to try picking. For example, if you find that you are picking when you are on the Netflix app, I suggest that you wear winter gloves or mittens while you binge watch. If there is a pimple that comes up that you can't deal with, you come in for a complimentary extract by yours truly. 100% of clients that have completed this challenge notice less pimples and more glowing skin after 7 days. Are you ready? Challenge accepted.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Getting Out of a Skin Routine Funk

This year, I experienced something I never thought I would. I went a week without washing my face at night! GASP! I know, I know! I was my worst client. I don't know exactly how I got there or what exactly happened to create a continuous 7 day streak... BUT, I knew that I was not alone. (I mean, please tell me I'm not alone!)

So what DO you do when you get in that skin routine funk? Heaven knows that I tried will power and it just wasn't working. Well, through fighting to find a solution, I believe that I have found FOUR things that may help you kick this bad habit to the curb!  

Don't wait until it's too late

One of the most common mistakes that I see in my practice is that clients wait until they are going to bed. They might have been home for hours, but it's common to do it 'right before bed.' Since it's late by that time ... 10, 11 or midnight, your body and your mind is SO tired. Like, drag-yourself-to-the-covers-and-hope-they-fall-open tired.

Let me suggest this option if this sounds like you. Once you are home and know that you won't be going out again for the night, go ahead and take off your makeup. Do you nightly routine (minimum steps would be to cleanse, mist, and then moisturize.) Get your skin ready to receive awesome ingredients from those products. Eliminate the excuse of being too tired by doing it earlier!

Add in a mask

Who doesn't love a treat? Something delicious and scrumptious! Well, your skin definitely loves that too! Sometimes we get in this rut of doing the same thing over and over again, when what we really need to do is liven life up!

Adding in a mask is a great way to awaken your skin and change things up! There are so many different ones to choose from and most are targeted to address your main skin routines. Of course, there are sheet masks and gimmicky ones. But, I love the ones from the tube that you can apply more than one application from. Ask your esthetician for a mask that is going to hit a home run with your skin! I think that you'll be pleasantly surprised and you may even decide that you look forward to your skin routine once again!  

Try new products

You know I have my favorites for my skin ... and I hope you have yours too! You know right when you apply the product, you hear the heavens open and the angelic chorus begins. It's a no brainer that you will always live and die by these specific products. And then you may have a step in your routine that you don't hear the music!

If you have that step in your process, it may be time to try something NEW! I know if you are anything like me, you love to peel off the seal and make that first application to the skin to see if this will be 'THE ONE.' (Insert smile.) I love experimenting with quality products that are suited for what my skin is going through right now (or even right for this time of the month.) It always add a little spice in my life, because I don't know what to expect. And that element of surprise gets me excited to do my routine again!

Challenge up

Finally, who doesn't LOVE a challenge? If you know that you are competitive (you know - like the Will Smith treadmill quote), then this may be just the thing to start your good habit of cleansing again. 

You can get your friends on board and set up a seven day challenge. After you do your skin care routine, you'll text each other with a check mark or the words 'DONE'. You can also be brave and announce on social media that you are going to cleanse for seven straight days and that you'll need their help to stay accountable to the process. I guarantee you that you'll have a few in your circle that will raise their hand and help you!

You may even choose to reward yourself with a new product, special dinner, or clothing item when you complete the challenge. Upping the ante is always a sure way to make sure that I'm going to put effort in the follow through.

So which of these four ways do you think will work for you? Maybe you'll pick a couple from the list! The main goal, though, is not to wait. Don't delay in taking care of your skin. Why? Because it's been said that when you don't cleanse your skin (at least nightly), that your skin can age 7x faster. So girl, wash your face. Do the thing. Just do it. Get 'er done. You can do it!!!!

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

You may even choose to reward yourself with a new product, special dinner, or clothing item when you complete the challenge. Upping the ante is always a sure way to make sure that I'm going to put effort in the follow through.

So which of these four ways do you think will work for you? Maybe you'll pick a couple from the list! The main goal, though, is not to wait. Don't delay in taking care of your skin. Why? Because it's been said that when you don't cleanse your skin (at least nightly), that your skin can age 7x faster. So girl, wash your face. Do the thing. Just do it. Get 'er done. You can do it!!!!

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

What is the Best Regimen for Acne Prone Skin?

I see so many clients that suffer from acne. It used to be thought that acne would come just during the teenage years, but more and more we are finding that acne can hit us no matter our age. It can also come more than once during your lifetime. I've found that there are three common questions related to the best regimen for acne prone skin. They are: What should I be using at home? How many steps do I need? And how do I use the home care products in the right way. In order to answer these questions, let's first talk about why acne occurs. 

In order to have acne, you need to have 3 things present on the skin: p. bacteria, excess sebum, and dead skin cells. If you don't have all 3 of those, there will not be acne. So what can you do about the bacteria, the excess oil and the build up of old skin? 

P. bacteria can be killed products like benzyl peroxide as well as tools like LED light therapy. Both have been found very effective to eliminate the amount of the bacteria on the skin. Probiotics (both in skin care products and in supplements) have also been found to help.

Excess sebum means extra oil. When sebum is present, it's like throwing gasoline on a fire, helping it to spread and intensify. It's important to get rid of the excess oil while making sure the skin cells don't send messages to send more oil. 

Dead skin cells need to be exfoliated properly. If you have acne that is inflammed, then you need to steer clear of mechanical exfoliation products. In other words, skip the scrubbies and go for a product that works without rubbing.

So now that we know what 3 things cause acne to occur, what should I be using at home?

When dealing with acne, your skin can be dry or oily, have blackheads and white heads or to the extremes of cysts and nodules deep under the skin. It's important to consult with your esthetician and/or dermatologist to come up with a treatment plan that is right for you!

How many steps do I need?

You really don't need to over complicate your skin care routine. I recommend cleansing, using treating mist, and moisturizing twice a day. Then, adding in exfoliation, masking, and spot treating or using a serum just for acne will depend on what type of acne you are experiencing and also how your skin is responding to the products that your esthetician has recommended for you. It's important to also note that sometimes changing up the products is important to achieve results as your skin can become accustom or acclimated to the treatment. Staying one step ahead of the acne is key.

So six steps is all that is needed, but you wouldn't use them every day or night. It shouldn't take very long to do any of these steps. Each step is usually a minute or less ... unless we are talking about exfoliation or masking. These may require more minutes but usually it is something you can put on the skin and then go do a chore or read a chapter in a book before moving on to the next step in the routine.

How do I use the products in the right way at home?

Here is a general recommendation that I give to acne clients that are committed to help their skin improve.

1) Cleanse

This first and basic step is necessary to remove the excess oil and dirt from the day. I like to use a gentle but effective foaming cleanser (safe enough to even remove eye makeup.) Sometimes I like to use a light milk cleanser at night. 

Always wash your hands before you cleanse your face. Massage for at least 30-60 seconds and then wipe with a wet cloth to remove final particles of dirt, oil, and cleanser.

2) Exfoliate

Depending on the type of acne will determine what type of exfoliant that you want to use on your facial skin. If it is mostly just blackheads and whiteheads, a mechanical exfoliation such as the Active Exfoliating Powder would work great. Use this about 2 to 3 times a week. If you have any larger acnes, like pustules and papules that are red, irritated, and sensitive, DO NOT use a mechanical exfoliation. Opt for an exfoliant that you can put on like a mask that will facilitate in eliminating the dead skin cells through the glue that holds them together.

Always follow the directions on your exfoliant. Mechanical exfoliations should be massaged in for 1 to 2 minutes, especially around the nose and the corners of the lips. Leave on exfoliants normally are left on for 10-15 minutes. 

3) Treating Mist

It's important to balance your skin with a treating mist. What does that mean? It means that your skin is happiest at a pH of a 5-5.5. Water is at a 7 pH. So when you rinse with water, your skin could still try to be balancing while you are putting your finishing steps on. Treating mists are ones without alcohol. 

I like to spray directly on the face OR spray into the hand and then gently press them into the skin. 

4) Serums + Spot Treatments

Where are you experiencing your acne? If it's just on the jawline, let's work a spot treatment there. Which means... treat one inch above and below where the acne is located. This treats the microcomodones (the pimples that you don't see on the surface of the skin --- yet!) This is the only way to get ahold AND ahead of the acne. Serums that promote healing and have anti inflammatory properties are ideal for those that are acne prone. If you only are treating the pimples that you can see, you will never get rid of the acne.

Always put on spot treatments, then serums, then moisturizers in thinnest texture to the heaviest. 

5) Moisturizers

Finally, you want to lock in what you just put on your skin with a suitable moisturizer. No, I'm not talking coconut oil or something heavy. Something that has additional probiotics in it, hyaluronic acid, etc. This will help balance your skin so that it doesn't feel 'dry'. What happens if your skin feels dry? It's going to produce more oil... and then the cycle starts over again!

I like to put about a pea size on my finger, then dot my face in quadrants (cheeks, forehead, chin, and nose) and spread out from then.

BONUS STEP! Masks

Masking at home 2 to 3 times a week can also promote quicker healing of the acne and the skin. There are many to choose from, but my favorite those which are calming, soothing, have active ingredients (but aren't TOO active.) More is not always better!

Spread evenly on the skin. Leave on 15-20 minutes. Rinse and wipe off with a wet cloth. Some masks you can even use as a spot treatment. Ask your esthetician is this is appropriate for your mask.

It's important to stay in touch with your provider AND to continue following a regime for your skin care. Just because you clear your skin does not mean that you can stop watching your face. Your esthetician may recommend changing up your routine so that your skin doesn't get accustomed to what ingredients that you are using to combat this disease. You'll also want to examine things like diet, birth control, stress, and more. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Deciphering Between New Skin Treatments

It's in your news feed on FaceBook, the tiles on Instagram, and even your favorite Beauty magazines and beauty bloggers are talking about it! You blink and feel like you've missed the last century with information on the latest with skin care. Does this feel familiar to you?

There are SO many new technologies, new research, and new ingredients that regularly hit the skin care world that it's hard to keep track of it all. Many clients have a hard time deciphering between all of the different BUZZ words that are used to describe new services. I'm here to help you remember once and for all what each of them mean and how you can keep them straight.

Microneedling

Microneedling is also known by the names Microchanneling, Collagen Induction Therapy, and C.I.T. You may have even heard of the Vampire Facial or PRP. All of these are related to microneedling but the Vampire Facial or PRP also uses your own platlets (or blood) to promote wound healing and is typically performed in a medical spa. Microneedling is where small needles prick the skin which stimulates collagen production. It is very effective in a series (I always recommend it that way) and can continue to improve the skin's appearance and texture up to six months after your appointment. This service is great for those with light acne scaring, fine lines and wrinkles, and large pores.  Depending on if you are seeing an esthetician or a dermatologist will determine the depth that the small needles can prick the skin. I recommend using great products before treatment and growth factor or stem cell serum after treatment. You will also need mineral makeup to wear for the next week. And it's even better if you can go without! You can be red and irritated for up to a couple days post treatment, but there is very little downtime. 

Making MICRONEEDLING easier to understand --->

What happens when you aerate your lawn in the spring? Sure, it might look a little weird right after it is performed, but then all of a sudden, your grass looks so healthy and beautiful that you want to have a glorious picnic and maybe lay in it. (Was I over dramatic there?) This is the same concept with your skin!

Nanoneedling

Nanoneedling is also known as Nano Infusion Therapy. If microneedling is something you've been thinking about, but you aren't quite ready to do that, this would be a baby step in the right direction. This treatment creates micro pathways to deliver serums and other nutrients from the skin care past the dead skin cells where they can more fully be utilized. This treatment also works well to treat those who would like to work on light acne scaring, fine lines and wrinkles, and larger pores. It's also great for those with sensitive skin. I love this technology so much, that I've added it into the newest member of our facial line up - The Cinderella.

Making NANONEEDLING easier to understand --->

Imagine a tiny waffle plate (elf size) that shake down products into the skin. You feel a vibration, but it's not painful and still delivers a powerful punch. Nano is less than micro as far as how far the products can penetrate the skin.

Dermaplaning 

Dermaplaning is an amazing and favorite exfoliation treatment.  It's also known as microplaning or blading. It was first mentioned in the 1970s, but have continuned to gain steam in the United States as an exceptional alternative to chemical exfoliation. (Can I get an AMEN from all of the nursing and pregnant mamas out there?) All walks of life LOVE this service because it is known for its immediate glow on the skin. Dermaplaning uses a dermatological scalpel which glides back and forth on the skin, picking up dead skin cells as well as the peach fuzz. It feels like a credit card is moving across each section of your face. The results are instant and include better product penetration, smoother looking makeup, and reducing the appearance of acne scaring, among many others.

Making it easier to understand --->

This exfoliation service removes the very outer layer of dead skin cells as well as the vellus hair on the face, revealing smoother, brighter skin for improved skin tone and texture. Think of a PLANE landing on a runway and barely touching down.  

Microblading

Microblading also known as embroidery, feather touch, hair-like strokes or even 3D brows. This technique first came to the scene about 25 years ago in Asia and finally took hold of the western population about 2015. This semi permanent makeup service is performed on the brows to create strokes that look like the actual brow hairs. You'll want to find an artist that has been certified in this procedure and that has a great portfolio of his or her own work. The hairs should never cross. Permanent makeup is a great option for those who have sparse and/or aging brows. Touch ups are recommended every 12-18 months. While considered 'permanent', it is actually a semi permanent treatment as the colors fade out in the skin but never leave completely. 

Making it easier to understand --->

Think of the letter M to stand for - micro/makeup. This looks like hairstrokes, can be done with different tools and will save you time drawing on eyebrows each day.

If you have other questions about these or other treatments, please don't hesitate to reach out!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why is My Skin So Dry in the Winter?

If you have ever experienced an Idaho winter, you'll know that it gets extremely dry. Not only do we feel it from our nose to our toes, our hands can experience cracking and bleeding from washing frequently and keeping away the germs. Our face is exposed to the outer elements throughout the year. So even though the lack of humidity occurs all year round, you may be wondering why it's extra bad in the winter.

The main culprit is not the lack of humidity, the fewer hours of daylight, or even the colder temperatures. Have you guessed it yet? The answer is the forced hot air to keep us warm! Since we can't live in igloos from November through February (or even October through March), here are some options to help ease the dry skin woes.

One of the main things you can do is to BEEF UP your skin care routine. In addition to daily cleansing, misting, and moisturizing, you may want to add in one or more of the following: Hydrating Mask, Daily Ceramide Comfort, Double up the Moisturizer by adding in a Serum, or a Night Cream.

Hydrating Mask 

A hydrating mask can be for any type of skin. Instead of focusing on the lack of oil, these will generally focus on the lack of water in the skin. Masking is one of the easiest way to help the skin with a big impact. When you mask, you will apply it on the face and then wait 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse and wipe dry with a cloth and add your finishing touches. I recommend that you use a mask 2 to 3 times a week to see the best results. If you skin starts feeling bad normally in November, you'll want to increase what you are doing in October. Don't wait until your skin is super bad to start or it will take longer to see the results. 

Daily Ceramide Comfort

This tiny little gold nugget has been a lifesaver for my clients. Generally, I have my clients use them as a boost to their skin once a week, but as shown in the name, you can use these daily. Again, start early and use them at night. These not only feel amazing, they really do wonders for the face and are for all skin types. This product is considered a 911 product and is an antioxidant while nourishing and protecting the skin from the elements.

A serum!

Did you know that serums are a smaller molecular weight, meaning they can go deeper into the skin? I love using a serum because I know what I'm applying to my skin is sinking in and working below the dead skin cells. Choosing on that has hyaluronic acid is a sure bet, because that ingredient holds it weight 1,000 times of water.

Night cream

Inherently, a night cream is thicker and creamier than something you wear during the day. Our skin is on a circadian rhythm, so it heals and repairs at night. That's why many product lines include a night cream. A moisturizer that aids in the healing and repairing process will definitely help your skin in the winter. It's important to note that some of the night creams may be too heavy to wear for those that are prone to acne.

In addition to products, there are a couple more things that might be able to help your skin in the frigid temperatures. My favorites include drinking water, vitamin c, limiting hot baths, and increasing the humidity. 

Drink Up!

Water is very important for our skin and other vital organs. In the spring and summer, our body gives us more signals letting us know that we are hot and we literally feel thirsty. It almost screams to hand over the biggest glass of ice water! Our body still needs that same amount of water in the water, but we don't get the same cue. Carry around your favorite water bottle to make sure you are rehydrating your cells throughout the day.

Vitamin C

There are many dietary changes that you can make for your skin, but this is one of my favorites. Vitamin C is an antioxidant which means it helps to protect the skin from UV rays and other outside elements. It can help tighten the skin's barrier which helps to keep the good stuff (moisture barrier, lipids, and more) in the skin and repels the bad stuff like free radicals.

Limit hot baths

Okay, okay! I'm guilty as charged. This girl right here LOVES a good, hot bath. Sometimes more than once a day! But the hot baths can increase dehydration at a rapid pace. Without drinking as much as we should, this definitely can aid in the dryness of your skin cells. 

Add in some humidity

The forced hot air is something we can't really change, but we can add the humidity in the air by using a humidifier. Humidifier emit water vapor or steam into the air which increases the air's humidity. The mountain west is always dry, so this is something that you could do all year round if you wanted to.

In case you need a recap, your dry skin is most likely due to the forced heat in the winter. During this time, step up your skin care game about a month before you typically feel dry, drink water everyday even when you don't feel thirsty, make sure that you are adding vitamin c into your diet, limit hot baths, and increase the humidity by using a humidifier. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do You Keep Your Skin Smooth?

As an esthetician, I love treating clients to all services, including lash lifts, waxing, and facials. When I do a facial treatment, many times I am surprised at the texture of the skin. It may not look rough, but upon touch, it really is rough! So if many clients have this problem, how do we solve it? I would like to offer two recommendations today. One is to exfoliate at home and the other is to have regular treatments that focus on exfoliation.

Exfoliation at home

There are three types of exfoliation - mechanical, chemical and enzymatic. I love all three. Mechanical are the scrubbing action that has a little grit (No Karen! Walk away from the St. Ives Apricot Scrub), chemical is acids (such as the Cleopatra bathing in milk which is lactic acid keeping the skin smooth and soft), and enzymatic (comes from fruits - most common in my experience is papaya and pineapple). 

Your skin type determines which is better for you! If you are aging, have broken blood vessels, sensitive skin or inflamed acne, do not use mechanical exfoliation. The chemical and enzymatic exfoliation comes in mask form. The enzymatic is much more gentle on the skin. Seek direction and guidance from your esthetician to determine which type is right for you and they will help you select a product. 

Spa Treatments that focus on exfoliation

There are many spa treatments that focus on exfoliation. Two that I will mention today are dermaplaning as chemical peels.

Dermaplaning is a clients favorite and known for the instant glow you receive, the smooth application of makeup and increased circulation of the skin. Clients remark that they can feel the air on their face differently (in a better way of course.) Products applied after you do this professional treatment really go into the skin better because they don't have to fight against the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Using a dermatological scalpel, the blade will gently glide back and forth on the skin primarily picking up and removing dead skin cells. It also will take off any peach fuzz on your face which does 'dull' your color. This results in that instant glow! (PS - Remember that you need to stop exfoliating before you come in and not exfoliate for 3 to 5 days after you come for your service! Otherwise, you'll make your skin feel more sensitive.)

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are very effective to do. A chemical exfoliation loosens the glue that holds the dead skin cells together, much like how a brick wall is held together with mortar. Chemical peels have come a long way in their days. Physicians began using deeper peels in 1882 using resorcinol, TCA, salicylic and phenol. These peels were very deep and aggressive. The peels we use today are superficial peels, meaning that they are working solely on the epidermis. A chemical exfoliation does not need to cause flaking and peeling to be working. New technology allows for peels to work without having downtime. It is also important to note that if you are taking care of your skin by regularly doing the right home exfoliation, you will not see a lot of dead skin cells coming off because you are doing an efficient job removing them on a weekly basis. So give yourself a high five!

A chemical peel comes from acids in either AHA or BHA. AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acids and BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acids. Lactic, glycolic, tartaric, citric, and malic acids are AHAs. Salicylic acid is a BHA. (You'll also note that these acids are also used in home care too!) Some of my favorite benefits from a chemical exfoliation are improved texture of the skin, barrier function, and moisture retention; increased hydration of the skin; reduced fine lines and wrinkles; improved acne and clogged pores; and skin that looks and feels smoother and softer.  

All of the clinical treatments offered by GM Collin can be performed with a chemical peel. My favorite to do with the peel is the AlgoMask. This has a thermal cooling effect on the skin that also pushes the serum deeper into the epidermis with it's rubberizing mask (did you just mention Mrs. DoubtFire?) Your skin feels different for days. This was the first GM Collin clinical facial that I received and BOY ... it did not disappoint. All peels by GM Collin are formulated to work without causing the traditional downtime. This means that you can see results without having to hide your skin for a week.

By choosing to do both exfoliation at home and services in the treatment room, you are sure to get the best of both worlds. Professional products at home are going to also get you a head start on your skin, improving the texture and giving you a healthy, beautiful glow to the skin. Working with your esthetician will help to train your skin to be the best that it can by slowing down the aging process. 

Do I Really Have Sensitive Skin?

One of the most common misconceptions for clients that I see is that everyone seems to think that they have sensitive skin. Have you heard of reactive skin? This is another common problem with the skin and probably more common than sensitive skin. So let's dive in and examine this further. Do you have sensitive skin or is it more likely that you have reactive skin?

Sensitive Skin

Those with sensitive skin usually have other skin conditions such as eczema. They experience bumps and pustules as skin reactions. They usually have very dry skin with improper nerve endings (which could be due to over exposure to the natural elements of the earth, such as wind and or sun) and the skin usually flushes and has redness. There is usually a genetic component to sensitive skin as well.

Reactive Skin

Those with reactive skin will experience tingling, stinging, or irritated skin when using product on their face. This can also present with a little bit of redness too. In my experience, I have noticed that clients might go for the best anti aging serum and cream in the market but may be missing the target mark for a great cleanser and mist. They may also be over exfoliating the skin which leads to a compromised barrier. Remember that one of my skin care philosophies are that more is not always better.

Calm and Protect the Skin

The good news is that the way to treat both types of skin are to soothe, calm and protect. So how do we do that?

First, we need to start at the basics and work on normalizing the skin. Before you come to see me for any service, you will be asked to fill out a form about your skin, what goals you are looking to achieve and also medications that you are taking. Many prescriptions thin the skin or disrupt the skin's protection and defense job, such as antibiotics and steroids. This gives us more pieces of the puzzle. We'll discuss a normal cleansing routine for you and what products you are using and how often. A thorough skin analysis is also needed. We cleanse the face, removing all makeup and oil from the day and then look at the skin carefully. Is the skin too dry? Are there broken blood vessels at the surface of the skin? Does the face look irritated?

Home Care

90% of changes you can make with your skin will be what you are able to do at home. So the next logical step would be to change up the cleansing process. The best cleanser for any irritated skin type would be a soothing light milk cleanser, which would feel like a lotion. Adding in a very light but hydrating moisturizer would be step two. After a week of using these products, I would add in a sensitive mist in between the cleanser and the moisturizer. The goal would be to take away active and exfoliating products while adding hydration to the skin.

What do you look for when you are ready to switch up what you are currently using? Look for products that are gentle. So ladies that love a good scrub every morning... you are going to have to put that aside. Look for products that don't have fragrance in the list of ingredients. Many products will add in fragrance or parfum, which are essentially the same thing. Forget about anti-aging and acne... for the moment. In order to address these concerns, you should do it in the proper order. If your skin isn't working properly to hydrate and fight off the outside world, this means that we've got to get that straightened out before we can do all the things.

Yes! I know you want it all! And we will get there. Generally, after taking a step with the home skin care routine, we are able to start slowly adding in products to address your next concerns! Would you ever start building your house from the top floor down? NO! You need a good solid foundation. And that comes from building your skin cells to do their proper functions.

Professional Treatments

For treatments, slow and steady will win the race. Gently and soothing products with a minimal amount of facial massages are key. I also love adding in the AlgoMask Clinical Facial with my sensitive and reactive clients because it is known for its soothing and hydrating properties. This rubberizing mask tones the skin, visibly reduces redness, and revitalizes the skin.

Sensitive or Reactive?

Have you been able to determine if you have sensitive skin? Are you thinking you have more reactive skin? I am ready and willing to help you achieve your skin care goals. If you are having serious problems with your skin, let's refer you first to your primary care physician or a qualified dermatologist so that we are addressing your house building blocks in order.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

6 Hints to Glowing Wrinkle Free Skin

The ever aging clock is something that many woman don't want to face. The truth is that there are many things that you can do to slow down the process that are easy, simple, and within your reach! Forget about the mistakes you may have used on your skin 5 years ago or even a month ago. Make a commitment to yourself and your skin that you will do your best starting today!

Consistent home care

Like with exercise, consistent time working on your goals will yield great results. A person that works out once a month vigorously for a couple hours may not see the same results at the end of a year as a person that works out for 30 minutes 5 times a week. Be consistent in making sure that you remove your makeup and the dirt, oil, and environment off of your skin every night. The minimum steps would be cleansing, applying a hyrdating mist, and finishing off with a moisturizer. After you feel comfortable and confident in those steps, add in regular exfoliation, masks, and eye cream.

Regular facials

Along with making sure you are doing work at home on your skin with a cleansing routine, seeing your Esthetician will boost your progress with your skin. Regular facials gives you an immediate glow and an increase in hydration. This is done by removing dead skin cells and getting rid of impurities on the surface of the skin. Many of the products in the treatment room are not available for use at home. Licensed Estheticians can use products with a higher percentage of acids or active products. Facial treatments will also help promote relaxation from everyday stressors. (Stress would be the #1 aging factor in my books.) Every month is my recommendation for how often to come receive a treatment.

Retinols

The ever popular Retin-A developed by James E. Fulton and Albert Kligman in the late 1960s is still going strong. As we age. our skin cell turnover rate begins to slow down. It is also why it takes longer and longer for the body to heal. Retinols speed up that rate so that the newer skin cells are revealed. My advice with using these products are to

Purchase from a professional and check in with them on a regular basis (products over the counter have to be for everyone and we want to get you into the right product straightway)

Start slow (about twice a week) and increase

More is not better --- having a higher percentage does not mean that your results will be quicker or better. It actually means your skin could be more sensitive and pink.

Sleep on your back

This one isn't for everyone, but your face will definitely thank you. Sleeping on your sides or stomach will put pressure on the face during the night. Over time, you can cause wrinkles to appear from the pillowcase and pressure. Remember how your mom always said that if you kept making that face that it would probably stay that way? Well, turns out your mom is right!!!

Treating your neck and hands along with your face

When treating your face, almost every client will stop at the jawline line. Guess what areas are still being exposed to the sun and have makeup, dirt, oils, etc. on it? That's right! The neck, decollette, and hands. Many experts say to see the true age of a woman, look at her decollette and the back of her hands. It takes only a few more seconds and a little more product to include these areas in when we are doing our cleansing routine for the day and night. Pay attention to these delicate areas and you will see the aging clock slow down.

Using your insurance policy - SPF

You are paying good money for a skin care routine and regular facial services. You definitely need protection! Would you drive a new car off of the parking lot without insurance? Absolutely not! Then why are so many willing to do the exact same thing with their face? Take time to find a sunscreen that you like and will use on a regular basis. If you are going to be out in the sun for a longer period of time, reapply. If you sit by a window at work, reapply. If you... well, you get it by now. And... having SPF in your makeup is not enough ladies! Watching a video one time, I was shocked to find out that to get that SPF 15, you needed to apply 9 pumps. Wow! Do your research and then just apply and reapply!

So which one is your personal favorite? What can you do better? Remember to start today and that we will work together to make consistent steps of progress for your skin!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician