What is the Best Regimen for Acne Prone Skin?

I see so many clients that suffer from acne. It used to be thought that acne would come just during the teenage years, but more and more we are finding that acne can hit us no matter our age. It can also come more than once during your lifetime. I've found that there are three common questions related to the best regimen for acne prone skin. They are: What should I be using at home? How many steps do I need? And how do I use the home care products in the right way. In order to answer these questions, let's first talk about why acne occurs. 

In order to have acne, you need to have 3 things present on the skin: p. bacteria, excess sebum, and dead skin cells. If you don't have all 3 of those, there will not be acne. So what can you do about the bacteria, the excess oil and the build up of old skin? 

P. bacteria can be killed products like benzyl peroxide as well as tools like LED light therapy. Both have been found very effective to eliminate the amount of the bacteria on the skin. Probiotics (both in skin care products and in supplements) have also been found to help.

Excess sebum means extra oil. When sebum is present, it's like throwing gasoline on a fire, helping it to spread and intensify. It's important to get rid of the excess oil while making sure the skin cells don't send messages to send more oil. 

Dead skin cells need to be exfoliated properly. If you have acne that is inflammed, then you need to steer clear of mechanical exfoliation products. In other words, skip the scrubbies and go for a product that works without rubbing.

So now that we know what 3 things cause acne to occur, what should I be using at home?

When dealing with acne, your skin can be dry or oily, have blackheads and white heads or to the extremes of cysts and nodules deep under the skin. It's important to consult with your esthetician and/or dermatologist to come up with a treatment plan that is right for you!

How many steps do I need?

You really don't need to over complicate your skin care routine. I recommend cleansing, using treating mist, and moisturizing twice a day. Then, adding in exfoliation, masking, and spot treating or using a serum just for acne will depend on what type of acne you are experiencing and also how your skin is responding to the products that your esthetician has recommended for you. It's important to also note that sometimes changing up the products is important to achieve results as your skin can become accustom or acclimated to the treatment. Staying one step ahead of the acne is key.

So six steps is all that is needed, but you wouldn't use them every day or night. It shouldn't take very long to do any of these steps. Each step is usually a minute or less ... unless we are talking about exfoliation or masking. These may require more minutes but usually it is something you can put on the skin and then go do a chore or read a chapter in a book before moving on to the next step in the routine.

How do I use the products in the right way at home?

Here is a general recommendation that I give to acne clients that are committed to help their skin improve.

1) Cleanse

This first and basic step is necessary to remove the excess oil and dirt from the day. I like to use a gentle but effective foaming cleanser (safe enough to even remove eye makeup.) Sometimes I like to use a light milk cleanser at night. 

Always wash your hands before you cleanse your face. Massage for at least 30-60 seconds and then wipe with a wet cloth to remove final particles of dirt, oil, and cleanser.

2) Exfoliate

Depending on the type of acne will determine what type of exfoliant that you want to use on your facial skin. If it is mostly just blackheads and whiteheads, a mechanical exfoliation such as the Active Exfoliating Powder would work great. Use this about 2 to 3 times a week. If you have any larger acnes, like pustules and papules that are red, irritated, and sensitive, DO NOT use a mechanical exfoliation. Opt for an exfoliant that you can put on like a mask that will facilitate in eliminating the dead skin cells through the glue that holds them together.

Always follow the directions on your exfoliant. Mechanical exfoliations should be massaged in for 1 to 2 minutes, especially around the nose and the corners of the lips. Leave on exfoliants normally are left on for 10-15 minutes. 

3) Treating Mist

It's important to balance your skin with a treating mist. What does that mean? It means that your skin is happiest at a pH of a 5-5.5. Water is at a 7 pH. So when you rinse with water, your skin could still try to be balancing while you are putting your finishing steps on. Treating mists are ones without alcohol. 

I like to spray directly on the face OR spray into the hand and then gently press them into the skin. 

4) Serums + Spot Treatments

Where are you experiencing your acne? If it's just on the jawline, let's work a spot treatment there. Which means... treat one inch above and below where the acne is located. This treats the microcomodones (the pimples that you don't see on the surface of the skin --- yet!) This is the only way to get ahold AND ahead of the acne. Serums that promote healing and have anti inflammatory properties are ideal for those that are acne prone. If you only are treating the pimples that you can see, you will never get rid of the acne.

Always put on spot treatments, then serums, then moisturizers in thinnest texture to the heaviest. 

5) Moisturizers

Finally, you want to lock in what you just put on your skin with a suitable moisturizer. No, I'm not talking coconut oil or something heavy. Something that has additional probiotics in it, hyaluronic acid, etc. This will help balance your skin so that it doesn't feel 'dry'. What happens if your skin feels dry? It's going to produce more oil... and then the cycle starts over again!

I like to put about a pea size on my finger, then dot my face in quadrants (cheeks, forehead, chin, and nose) and spread out from then.

BONUS STEP! Masks

Masking at home 2 to 3 times a week can also promote quicker healing of the acne and the skin. There are many to choose from, but my favorite those which are calming, soothing, have active ingredients (but aren't TOO active.) More is not always better!

Spread evenly on the skin. Leave on 15-20 minutes. Rinse and wipe off with a wet cloth. Some masks you can even use as a spot treatment. Ask your esthetician is this is appropriate for your mask.

It's important to stay in touch with your provider AND to continue following a regime for your skin care. Just because you clear your skin does not mean that you can stop watching your face. Your esthetician may recommend changing up your routine so that your skin doesn't get accustomed to what ingredients that you are using to combat this disease. You'll also want to examine things like diet, birth control, stress, and more. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE