How to Keep Your Skin Clear This Winter

Raise your hand if you would like clear, beautiful skin. (I sure hope all hands went up!) I sure do! Did you know that skin care is very seasonal? South East Idaho has all four seasons (sometimes all in one day - haha.) Today, let's discuss tips on how to keep your skin clear during the winter months.

Water

Are you drinking enough water? Typically we think that hydration needs to happen better in the summer because we are more likely to sweat during those hot months. But when it gets really cold outside, guess what we do inside? We turn up the heat. All of that forced dry air will mimic the hot, windy climate that we experience in the summer. You may not feel the need to drink water because hot cocoa, coffee, and tea might be screaming your name to warm you up, which is why it's so important to bring a water bottle with you and sip throughout the day. You can also choose to increase your diet with foods higher in water!

Change up your at home products

The products that your skin needs to be amazing in the winter are quite different. Instead of using your favorite foaming cleanser, you may want to grab a milk cleanser which will feel like a lotion. Don't skip exfoliating, but listen to what your skin is telling you. Most exfoliating products are to be used once to twice a week. Would your skin prefer an exfoliating mask over a scrub in the winter. Listen for clues and your skin will tell you. You'll definitely want a little bit heavier moisturizer that locks in the hydration and natural oils in your skin too. If you only use a night cream one season a year, always, always, always choose winter!

Lukewarm water

I've said it before and I'll say it again (probably more for my benefit), the best water to cleanse your face in is lukewarm water (which might feel colder to you than you think.) Hot water feels nice but can strip away more of your natural oils on your skin... they are definitely there for a reason! And while we are on the topic. If you take a nice warm, hot bath, or take advantage of our close location to Lava Hot Springs, Idaho, you'll want to gently cleanse and moisturize afterwards as soon as you can.

Step up your timing game

Want to get the most out of your products? Make sure that after you wash your face with your milk cleanser and rinse with the lukewarm water, spritz your face with the mist and immediately moisturize with the proper product. Do not stop to collect your $200 or glance at 5 more Instagram pictures... do it right away!

Exfoliation

If you find that you are experiencing more acne or more dryness, you may need to step up your exfoliation. One of my skin care philosophies is More is not always better. But maybe you need to do twice a week instead of one or swtich to a different exfoliator all together. The key here is to consult with your Esthetician on what you need to do to help buffer your skin through these winter months.

So there are a few of my recommendations. Drink water, change up your home care routine, use lukewarm water for cleansing, and make sure that your exfoliation is the right kind and you are using it the right amount. A facial could also benefit your skin greatly, so be sure to schedule a treatment and let your Esthetician do the heavy lifting.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do I Get Rid of These Sunspots?

Maybe you noticed some extra color on your upper lip. Or when you were pregnant, you experienced a butterfly mask. Or perhaps, one side of your face is experiencing sun spots. All of these concerns are under a big umbrella of a term called ‘hyperpigmentation.’ Sometimes these age spots are called sun spots or liver spots. So how do you get rid of these sun spots?

First things first. You HAVE to use a broad spectrum daily sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher. You will need to reapply. Foundation that includes SPF is not a replacement for still wearing the sunscreen that is separate from your makeup. This step prevents the sun spots from getting worse and is critical from getting rid of these sun spots.

The next thing that you need to do is to make sure that you are using antioxidants and ingredients that will stop inflammatory reactions in the skin. Antioxidants include vitamin c, green tea extract, vitamin e, licorice root extract, and more. The skin will utilize these ingredients in protecting the skin as well as lightening the sun spots that have already appeared.

My third suggestion is to include exfoliation in your home care and spa treatments. AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids) not only help to remove dead skin cells, but it will help with texture, wrinkles, and also sun spots. Utilizing chemical peels in the treatment room (light, medium or aggressive - there are lots of options out there) will also help your home care products to penetrate the skin better.

Progress may be slow, which is why I recommend to do pictures, at least on a quarterly basis. Once you start seeing changes, don’t let up on the home care steps. You need to stay the course. Continue to use SPF, antioxidants, and exfoliation to see those sunspots lighten.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why is My Skin Dry After a Facial?

You’ve just received a wonderful facial! You are so relaxed and your skin is glowing better than it has ever done before. So, if it feels SO good the day of, why am I feeling dry a couple days after and what can I do about it?

For starters, what estheticians do in a facial is not something that you do everyday. Usually a facial includes one to two cleanses, exfoliation, mask, with all of the ending products like serums, moisturizers, eye cream and SPF. One common exfoliant used in a facial is an enzyme exfoliant that eats away at the glue that hold dead skin cells together on your skin. This loosen process is so effective, yet gentle on the skin, and is a go to for many skin care professionals. So if you loosen it all up, not all of the dead skin cells will slough off right away. Some will be coming off two and three days later.

If this has happened to you and you aren’t sure what to do about it, here are my main suggestions.

#1 Regular exfoliation

Make sure that in your skin care routine at home that you are regularly exfoliating the skin so that the dead skin cells do not build up. If you normally get dry a couple days post a facial, make sure that you exfoliate about day three. That process will help you remove any of the light flaking that you are seeing.

#2 Regular facials

Deep cleanses and exfoliations that can only be done at the spa are important. Since you only get one face, I suggest regular facials to help slow the aging process, work on your specific skin concerns, and to help boost your great routine that you have at home.

#3 Moisturize

Make sure after you’ve exfoliated your skin that you are also using a moisturizer that is appropriate for your skin. You may also want to boost your routine right after the facial with a serum. Not only will this help lengthen the glow and results of the facial, but it will help your skin to receive that hydration deeper in the skin so you can skip the dry days.

Using all three of these suggestions would give you the ultimate results and help you to avoid any dryness after a facial. If you do experience dryness, also make sure that you tell your esthetician so that they may be able to adjust one or more of the steps in your next facial too!

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Am I Over Exfoliating My Skin?

Exfoliating the skin has many benefits. As you remove the dead skin cell layer, you reveal the fresh new skin underneath. This skin has a healthy glow and appears more youthful. Products penetrate the skin better. Makeup application glides on much easier. The texture of the skin also feel much more smooth to you and your Esthetician.

But what happens if you do more exfoliation? Can there be too much of a good thing? 

Are you guilty (like I have been) of knowing that you don't have to 'feel' a product on the skin to know that it's working but still wanting to 'feel' it? We, as Americans, get sucked into that trap of wanting to feel the tingle or the burn. Or maybe this describes you... If your Esthetician recommends that you let the product sit for 10 minutes, you do 15 minutes just to make sure it was enough. Or if you are instructed to use twice a week, you do four times for good measure. If this is you, I'm here to share some exciting news! More is not always better. This is one of my skin care philosophies. Do not be fooled into thinking doing the steps for longer or more frequent is helping your skin.

In fact, it can be quite the opposite. The acid mantle of the skin is delicate and needs to be balanced. As we age, our own exfoliation processes slow down and needs more help from us to remove the dead skin cells. But if we exfoliate more than our skin needs, it may turn red, feel irritated, break out, etc. 'Listen' to what your skin is telling you. Do you actually need more? Each skin type will benefit from a different type of exfoliation as well as a different schedule for exfoliating the skin.

In general, here are some key points:

Younger skin needs less exfoliation

Those with acne will want to avoid harsh scrubs

Sensitive skin types need to be extra choosy about what type of exfoliation that they use

Follow the recommended exfoliation schedule (both how often and how long when applying to the skin)

When you are tempted to put on that exfoliator for longer or to scrub harder, just remember 'More is not always better.' Stick with what you know you need and you will see improvements in your skin! 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do you Handle Large Pores?

One of the common skin care goals that clients would like to work on and improve for their skin is to work on large pores. Besides anti-aging, the number #1 request of what clients would like to change about their skin is pore size. The request to shrink pores is one that many of us wish and desire. And if I were a genie, I'd grant you that wish. The truth is that your pore size is genetic. The larger pore sizes are down the middle of the face in the t zone area. There is nothing that you can do to shrink pores. However, there is much to be done to make the pore size appear smaller! Are you game? 

The best way to minimize the pore size is by cleansing thoroughly and exfoliating regularly. I've also added my bonus tools that work well in helping my skin stay clear and healthy!

When you are cleansing your skin, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Most people cleanse once, but if you are a heavy makeup wearer, you suffer from acne, or you are washing right after a sweaty workout, it may be appropriate to cleanse twice. You can use the same cleanser, or you can use two different cleansers. The later option could look like having a milk or oil cleanser and then a foaming cleanser after. Or doing a gel cleanser followed by a deep cleansing solution. Always massage the skin gently and remove the cleansers with tepid water followed by a makeup or washcloth. This technique of wiping with a cloth after you've rinsed the skin can be compared to cleaning your kitchen floor. You wouldn't just throw down the cleanser and water on the floor, right? You definitely need a mop too to go back and forth and maybe even scrub just a little! Experiment with different combinations to see what works for you and your skin! As you cleanse efficiently with the right cleansers, you will notice your pores looking healthier and tighter.

Exfoliating on a regular basis will definitely help minimize the appearance of pores. There are different types of exfoliation and everyone has their preference. If you choose to do mechanical exfoliation, make sure that you are not using the apricot scrubs or one that is harsh, as the facial skin is very delicate.  Follow the recommendations of the product that you use. In general two to three times a week is adequate to helping the skin flush out the debris that get trapped inside of the pores. If the debris stay inside the pore, the will appear bigger.

You could also use tools in your cleansing and exfoliating steps if you'd like. Two of my favorite are the My Skin Buddy and well as the Supracor Spa Cell. The My Skin Buddy uses four different technologies in one light weight device. LED light therapy uses different wavelengths for different concerns for the skin - red helps slow the aging process, blue kills the p bacteria present with acne, green soothes and calms the skin. Ion care which means that the positivitely charged ions attract and pull out the impurities of the skin and the negatively charge ions push serums deeper within the skin. Ultrasonic vibration not only feels good, it also breaks up the dead skin cells while lifting, tightening, and firming the skin. Thermal heat aids in the cleansing of the skin by emulsifying the dirt and oil. This technology also shows that it improves the skin's oxygenation process, improving blood flow and shrinking pore size.

The Spa Cell has been a favorite of mine since 2016, which you can use on your face and body. This is my go to for any body waxing client, especially if you are wanting to receive a brazilian or bikini wax. It is not only effective, but also antimicrobial. This reusable product works with any cleanser or body wash you are already using.

Keep your chin up and do your best with the pores that you've been given! Cleanse, exfoliate and try one of these specialized tools to keep your pores clear of debris. Smile and show off your glowing skin!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How to Step Up Your Winter Skin Care Routine

It seems as if every year, my skin screams just a little louder when the cold winter air starts appearing. I'm convinced that it is age and the slowing down of the repair systems that our skin uses when it heals at night. I sure didn't notice this when I was 18, but now that I'm 29 (wink, wink), I am noticing more and more with each passing year.

Does this strike a cord with you too? Are you noticing that your skin feels different in the winter? And all of the seasons for that matter. Read on to get three simple tips for helping your skin maintain it's hydration levels during the colder months.

#1 - Check out Your Exfoliation Schedule

I hope you are already exfoliating your skin on a normal basis. If not, let's definitely talk. Make sure that you beef up your exfoliation routine. Depending on what exfoliation you are doing, you should be using this a MINIMUM  of once a week (even twice) all the way up to every day. Consult with your Esthetician on how often you should be applying your exfoliant. This will always depend on what type you are using and how your skin typically is along with how it acts in the wintertime. 

Regardless, pick days that you always exfoliate and stick to your schedule religiously.

#2 - Use Your Serums or Concentrates

Alright ladies! This step may not be in the most simplified of routines (those 3 steppers out there - cleanse, tone, moisturizer.) But I'm telling you, if you were to use a serum at any time of the year, winter is THE time to do this. A serum's molecule size is much smaller than a moisturizer. What does that mean? It means that a serum or concentrate can penetrate the skin on a deeper level, providing much needed moisture and balance. 

Basically, if you aren't already using a serum or concentrate, please start today. Do it every morning... and every night. Watch your skin soak in the awesomeness (yes - that's a word)!

#3 - Evaluate Your Current Moisturizer

Take a look at your current moisturizer. Is this going to be a thick enough/ heavy enough product for you to ward off the force hot air inside and the cold crisp air we feel outside? It is not uncommon for clients to make a switch in the winter months to something that's a little more decadent on their skin. While you may be able to get away with the lightest weight moisturizer in the spring and summer, you may not be able to in the winter.

Pull out the moisturizer and really evaluate if this will do the best for your skin come December. It's really okay to put away the other moisturizer and pick up a luxurious option for the winter. You can come back to your favorite come springtime!

So there you go! Three easy options that can help your skin combat the harsh winter months ahead. Stay warm, stay healthy, and stay glowing!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

The Power of Exfoliation and Serums with HydroGlow

I hope that you know by now that I am a huge fan of exfoliating the skin and using a serum or concentrate. Here's why there is magic and power in the combination of using both! You get both in the NEW service being offer at Essential Esthetics by Zoey with the HydroGlow. 

Exfoliating the skin means that you are gently helping the skin to eliminate, remove, and dissolve the dead skin cells off the top of the skin. While there are many ways of doing this, the main two that are recognized are ones with the scrubbies and ones without that go on the skin like a mask. The mechanical exfoliation removes dead skin cells by knocking off the top bricks of that wall. The exfoliation with are either chemical or enzymes that work by eating away the mortar of our brick wall (the lipids and proteins that are keeping the dead skin cells connected.) Exfoliate the skin properly, and you'll notice that you have a more healthy glow.

Using a serum or concentrate on the skin can make a dramatic impact on the skin. And here's why! The molecule size of the serum is smaller, which simply means that it can penetrate deeper. Many serums are a thinner consistency, which further helps them reach down in the skin. Serums and concentrates can work on any skin concern. But, if you are concerned about acne, don't choose one that is an anti-aging serum (though we all want to slow down our aging process.) Pick a serum that is going to help with YOUR top skin care goal!

So why is there magic in using both exfoliation with a serum? Well, this powerful duo will workto FIRST remove the dead skin cells of your face to allow the serum that you are using to really do its job and not lay topically on the surface of the skin. The serum that could go down to x layer will now be able to go even one step further, landing a bigger knock out punch!

The HydroGlow Treatment will use the serums in each step of your service - the cleansing, exfoliating, extraction and hydration process. Using the suction in hydrodermabrasion, you are using exfoliation for the skin in each step as well, which works to get rid of clogged pores and revealing the youthful appearance of the skin.

Incorporating both exfoliation and serums both at home and in the treatment room is a winning combination that I can't wait to show you! Meet you back at the spa soon!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

What is Hydrodermabrasion?

There are so many buzz words in the skin care industry. In fact, in January this year, I posted another blog post entitled Deciphering Between New Skin Treatments. This article talked about these different services: Microneedling, Nanoneedling, Dermaplaning and Microblading and how to keep them straight. Hydrodermabrasion is also a treatment that has been around for awhile, but is gaining popularity among facial clients. So let's talk about what it is, what it feels like, and who is a candidate to receive this results oriented facial.

So what is Hydrodermabrasion? 

Hydrodermabrasion is called Hydroderm for short and is an exfoliating treatment utilizing a machine with suction and serums and saline. There are many different machines for the esthetician to use, but the concept is the same. You use a wand that uses suction (vacuum) and serums (saline) at the same time. These serums are used to target whatever skin condition the client is looking to improve. 

The benefits of this services are wide ranging. In general though, when you exfoliate the skin properly and on a regular basis, the skin will have a more youthful appearance. This is because when you gently remove dead skin cells on the skin, you are showing off the newer skin underneath. The products that you use on your skin will be able to do their job 100% instead of laying topically and just sitting on top of the dead skin cells. Hydroderm will help remove blackhead, clear clogged pores, even skin tone and texture, improve hydration, and give the skin a glow.

What does it feel like?

This service is one that clients always say makes their skin feel 'cool.' The use of the vacuum and serums at the same time are very effective on the skin. I sometimes describe this as powerwashing the deck. So you'll feel the suction and the wetness as the serums come out of one tube and then are sucked back in with another. The suction not only takes the serums and saline, but the dead skin cells and debris on the skin can also be sucked into the waste tank. It's also a fun experience for clients to see what landed there as well.

Who is hydroderm recommended for?

Almost all clients can benefit for this service. If you have cystic acne, rosacea, or very thin skin, this may not be the best facial treatment to receive. But the suction can be turned down a little and the serums can always be customized, which makes this service not a cookie cutter one. Make sure to ask your esthetician what would be best for you and your skin care goals that you are trying to reach. 

Are you excited to try out something new and see your skin begin to improve? Ask your esthetician if you could benefit from this facial and let's schedule it today!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why am I Experiencing Ingrown Hairs?

One of the problems from shaving or waxing is ingrown hairs. As the hair is coming out of the skin, it can't quite break through the dead skin cells. The hair continues to grow but it is now growing under the skin and can grow like a river underneath or can grow in the circle and stay balled up. Usually ingrowns are worse when shaving versus waxing. There are a couple of reasons why you would get an ingrown hair. Here's why and what you can do about it!

Some people are just more prone to experiencing ingrown hairs. This is due to our genetics, how the skin is and what the hairs do ... under normal conditions. That being said, it's important to find a great waxer that uses proper technique and post care. Develop a relationship so that you can ask any and all questions. Your esthetician is there to help you! You can have ingrown hairs anywhere on the body, but this article will focus mostly on intimate waxing.

What should I Avoid?

When going in for a brazilian waxing treatment, make sure to follow all the after care instructions you are given. I like to say to avoid the 3 S's - Sunning, Sweat, and Sex for 24 hours.

Sunning - This means to avoid anything hot like tanning, hot tubs, saunas etc. The area may be sensitive, so some people think that heat will make it feel better. Let me assure you that this is not the case. Instead, use ice, aloe and soothing products.

Sweat - Do not go straight from your wax to your hardest workout of the week! Infact, avoid the gym for 24 hours while the hair follicle is open. (It takes approximately a day for it to close up.)

Sex - Heat, friction, etc are a recipe for disaster. Wait 24 hours for the area to calm, the hair follicles to close up and 

What Should I Do?

There are also a couple things that are extremely helpful and something you can do. These include exfoliation and hydration.

Exfoliating - In order to understand why this is so important, let's talk about the anatomy of a hair. We'll use an analogy of a tree. If you are shaving, you are chopping the tree trunk down at the base, which is a thick area. The hair growing back will feel stubbly and may be itchy because it is at the base of the tree. When you wax, the hair will grow back like the tips of branch. The difference of the hairs breaking through the dead skin cells are very different with one being a trunk and another being a branch. The branch will definitely need help. Help comes in the form of exfoliating away the dead skin cells. My favorites for this are the Spa Cell (which can be used with any body wash) and the Ingrown Hair Buster (a spray using botanicals and acids.) Both are very effective at exfoliating. I like to have my clients exfoliate 2 to 3 times a week to start, while adjusting if needed.

Hydrating - In addition to exfoliating, the hair needs to be conditioned and hydrated. If the hair is not hydrated properly, it make break off while waxing. Broken hairs also have a hard time reaching the surface of the skin and may result in ingrown hairs. How do you hydrate and condition the skin? You need a moisturizer. If you use something too heavy, it can clog pores. Too light weight and it may not be enough to hydrate properly. So something in the middle is just right in this case!

One final thought on ingrown hairs. Many people wax for years, not experiencing problems and then start to have a couple of ingrowns. As the hairs are waxed, they do get weaker and finer. So this may be a problem that you experience later on. Make sure that you take the advice of your waxer and play with the frequency of how often you exfoliate and moisturize to find the right combination for you. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

What is the Best Regimen for Acne Prone Skin?

I see so many clients that suffer from acne. It used to be thought that acne would come just during the teenage years, but more and more we are finding that acne can hit us no matter our age. It can also come more than once during your lifetime. I've found that there are three common questions related to the best regimen for acne prone skin. They are: What should I be using at home? How many steps do I need? And how do I use the home care products in the right way. In order to answer these questions, let's first talk about why acne occurs. 

In order to have acne, you need to have 3 things present on the skin: p. bacteria, excess sebum, and dead skin cells. If you don't have all 3 of those, there will not be acne. So what can you do about the bacteria, the excess oil and the build up of old skin? 

P. bacteria can be killed products like benzyl peroxide as well as tools like LED light therapy. Both have been found very effective to eliminate the amount of the bacteria on the skin. Probiotics (both in skin care products and in supplements) have also been found to help.

Excess sebum means extra oil. When sebum is present, it's like throwing gasoline on a fire, helping it to spread and intensify. It's important to get rid of the excess oil while making sure the skin cells don't send messages to send more oil. 

Dead skin cells need to be exfoliated properly. If you have acne that is inflammed, then you need to steer clear of mechanical exfoliation products. In other words, skip the scrubbies and go for a product that works without rubbing.

So now that we know what 3 things cause acne to occur, what should I be using at home?

When dealing with acne, your skin can be dry or oily, have blackheads and white heads or to the extremes of cysts and nodules deep under the skin. It's important to consult with your esthetician and/or dermatologist to come up with a treatment plan that is right for you!

How many steps do I need?

You really don't need to over complicate your skin care routine. I recommend cleansing, using treating mist, and moisturizing twice a day. Then, adding in exfoliation, masking, and spot treating or using a serum just for acne will depend on what type of acne you are experiencing and also how your skin is responding to the products that your esthetician has recommended for you. It's important to also note that sometimes changing up the products is important to achieve results as your skin can become accustom or acclimated to the treatment. Staying one step ahead of the acne is key.

So six steps is all that is needed, but you wouldn't use them every day or night. It shouldn't take very long to do any of these steps. Each step is usually a minute or less ... unless we are talking about exfoliation or masking. These may require more minutes but usually it is something you can put on the skin and then go do a chore or read a chapter in a book before moving on to the next step in the routine.

How do I use the products in the right way at home?

Here is a general recommendation that I give to acne clients that are committed to help their skin improve.

1) Cleanse

This first and basic step is necessary to remove the excess oil and dirt from the day. I like to use a gentle but effective foaming cleanser (safe enough to even remove eye makeup.) Sometimes I like to use a light milk cleanser at night. 

Always wash your hands before you cleanse your face. Massage for at least 30-60 seconds and then wipe with a wet cloth to remove final particles of dirt, oil, and cleanser.

2) Exfoliate

Depending on the type of acne will determine what type of exfoliant that you want to use on your facial skin. If it is mostly just blackheads and whiteheads, a mechanical exfoliation such as the Active Exfoliating Powder would work great. Use this about 2 to 3 times a week. If you have any larger acnes, like pustules and papules that are red, irritated, and sensitive, DO NOT use a mechanical exfoliation. Opt for an exfoliant that you can put on like a mask that will facilitate in eliminating the dead skin cells through the glue that holds them together.

Always follow the directions on your exfoliant. Mechanical exfoliations should be massaged in for 1 to 2 minutes, especially around the nose and the corners of the lips. Leave on exfoliants normally are left on for 10-15 minutes. 

3) Treating Mist

It's important to balance your skin with a treating mist. What does that mean? It means that your skin is happiest at a pH of a 5-5.5. Water is at a 7 pH. So when you rinse with water, your skin could still try to be balancing while you are putting your finishing steps on. Treating mists are ones without alcohol. 

I like to spray directly on the face OR spray into the hand and then gently press them into the skin. 

4) Serums + Spot Treatments

Where are you experiencing your acne? If it's just on the jawline, let's work a spot treatment there. Which means... treat one inch above and below where the acne is located. This treats the microcomodones (the pimples that you don't see on the surface of the skin --- yet!) This is the only way to get ahold AND ahead of the acne. Serums that promote healing and have anti inflammatory properties are ideal for those that are acne prone. If you only are treating the pimples that you can see, you will never get rid of the acne.

Always put on spot treatments, then serums, then moisturizers in thinnest texture to the heaviest. 

5) Moisturizers

Finally, you want to lock in what you just put on your skin with a suitable moisturizer. No, I'm not talking coconut oil or something heavy. Something that has additional probiotics in it, hyaluronic acid, etc. This will help balance your skin so that it doesn't feel 'dry'. What happens if your skin feels dry? It's going to produce more oil... and then the cycle starts over again!

I like to put about a pea size on my finger, then dot my face in quadrants (cheeks, forehead, chin, and nose) and spread out from then.

BONUS STEP! Masks

Masking at home 2 to 3 times a week can also promote quicker healing of the acne and the skin. There are many to choose from, but my favorite those which are calming, soothing, have active ingredients (but aren't TOO active.) More is not always better!

Spread evenly on the skin. Leave on 15-20 minutes. Rinse and wipe off with a wet cloth. Some masks you can even use as a spot treatment. Ask your esthetician is this is appropriate for your mask.

It's important to stay in touch with your provider AND to continue following a regime for your skin care. Just because you clear your skin does not mean that you can stop watching your face. Your esthetician may recommend changing up your routine so that your skin doesn't get accustomed to what ingredients that you are using to combat this disease. You'll also want to examine things like diet, birth control, stress, and more. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do You Keep Your Skin Smooth?

As an esthetician, I love treating clients to all services, including lash lifts, waxing, and facials. When I do a facial treatment, many times I am surprised at the texture of the skin. It may not look rough, but upon touch, it really is rough! So if many clients have this problem, how do we solve it? I would like to offer two recommendations today. One is to exfoliate at home and the other is to have regular treatments that focus on exfoliation.

Exfoliation at home

There are three types of exfoliation - mechanical, chemical and enzymatic. I love all three. Mechanical are the scrubbing action that has a little grit (No Karen! Walk away from the St. Ives Apricot Scrub), chemical is acids (such as the Cleopatra bathing in milk which is lactic acid keeping the skin smooth and soft), and enzymatic (comes from fruits - most common in my experience is papaya and pineapple). 

Your skin type determines which is better for you! If you are aging, have broken blood vessels, sensitive skin or inflamed acne, do not use mechanical exfoliation. The chemical and enzymatic exfoliation comes in mask form. The enzymatic is much more gentle on the skin. Seek direction and guidance from your esthetician to determine which type is right for you and they will help you select a product. 

Spa Treatments that focus on exfoliation

There are many spa treatments that focus on exfoliation. Two that I will mention today are dermaplaning as chemical peels.

Dermaplaning is a clients favorite and known for the instant glow you receive, the smooth application of makeup and increased circulation of the skin. Clients remark that they can feel the air on their face differently (in a better way of course.) Products applied after you do this professional treatment really go into the skin better because they don't have to fight against the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Using a dermatological scalpel, the blade will gently glide back and forth on the skin primarily picking up and removing dead skin cells. It also will take off any peach fuzz on your face which does 'dull' your color. This results in that instant glow! (PS - Remember that you need to stop exfoliating before you come in and not exfoliate for 3 to 5 days after you come for your service! Otherwise, you'll make your skin feel more sensitive.)

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are very effective to do. A chemical exfoliation loosens the glue that holds the dead skin cells together, much like how a brick wall is held together with mortar. Chemical peels have come a long way in their days. Physicians began using deeper peels in 1882 using resorcinol, TCA, salicylic and phenol. These peels were very deep and aggressive. The peels we use today are superficial peels, meaning that they are working solely on the epidermis. A chemical exfoliation does not need to cause flaking and peeling to be working. New technology allows for peels to work without having downtime. It is also important to note that if you are taking care of your skin by regularly doing the right home exfoliation, you will not see a lot of dead skin cells coming off because you are doing an efficient job removing them on a weekly basis. So give yourself a high five!

A chemical peel comes from acids in either AHA or BHA. AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acids and BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acids. Lactic, glycolic, tartaric, citric, and malic acids are AHAs. Salicylic acid is a BHA. (You'll also note that these acids are also used in home care too!) Some of my favorite benefits from a chemical exfoliation are improved texture of the skin, barrier function, and moisture retention; increased hydration of the skin; reduced fine lines and wrinkles; improved acne and clogged pores; and skin that looks and feels smoother and softer.  

All of the clinical treatments offered by GM Collin can be performed with a chemical peel. My favorite to do with the peel is the AlgoMask. This has a thermal cooling effect on the skin that also pushes the serum deeper into the epidermis with it's rubberizing mask (did you just mention Mrs. DoubtFire?) Your skin feels different for days. This was the first GM Collin clinical facial that I received and BOY ... it did not disappoint. All peels by GM Collin are formulated to work without causing the traditional downtime. This means that you can see results without having to hide your skin for a week.

By choosing to do both exfoliation at home and services in the treatment room, you are sure to get the best of both worlds. Professional products at home are going to also get you a head start on your skin, improving the texture and giving you a healthy, beautiful glow to the skin. Working with your esthetician will help to train your skin to be the best that it can by slowing down the aging process. 

Is Waxing or Dermaplaning Better?

When explaining hair removal options, I often get asked whether Dermaplaning or Waxing is better? These treatments are both amazing options, but work in different ways.

Dermaplaning's first job is to the exfoliate the skin. This is done by gently moving a dermatological scalpel back and forth on the skin. The scalpel picks up the dead skin cells away from the healthy skin cells. What does Dermaplaning feel like? I think that the best descriptions are a credit card is sliding back and forth on the skin or a cat's tongue is licking your face. While exfoliating is number one, as a by product mostly of the peach fuzz hair on the face is also removed in the process.

Want an instant glow? Dermaplane. Would you like better makeup application? Dermaplane. Would you like your products to do their job 100%? Dermaplane.

Waxing's first job is to remove unwanted and unsightly hair. There are 2 different types of wax: hard wax which sets up completely and soft wax, which uses strips to remove. I only use hard wax on the face, as it is more gentle and works by essentially shrink wrapping the wax around the hairs of the skin. What does waxing feel like? I would describe this service to have a little bit of sting or tingle. The pain is very short lived. Clients may be a little pink for a couple hours after a wax which is very normal. While removing hair is the first priority of this service, waxing will also naturally pick up a little of the dead skin cells that are ready to go.

Want to remove dark or coarse hair? Wax. Want smoother skin for a longer period of time? Wax. Would you like facial hair to grow in a little finer and softer? Wax.

So let's review. The Dermaplaning service exfoliates first and removes hair second. Having a waxing treatment removes hair first and exfoliates the skin second. The main benefits of Dermaplaning are to give you an instant glow, give you better makeup application, and better product penetration. The main benefits of Waxing are to remove dark hair, have a smoother feel of the face for a longer period, and for facial hair to grow in a little finer and softer most of the time. I should note that dark, coarse facial hair is related to hormonal changes and it's always a good idea to get those checked with your doctor.

I also will offer to include waxing the upper lip with a Dermaplane service, so you can get the best of both worlds! When looking at your skin, I will let you know if this is what I recommend for you to do.

Let's set up a treatment that is right for you!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Exfoliation is Key

When I think of basic steps to skin care, I think cleansing, toning, and moisturizing. Are you with me? These three are easy, simple, and probably take a minute and a half to do all of them. One of the things that women overlook sometimes is exfoliation. Or maybe you are exfoliating everyday. Here's the 411 on why exfoliation is so important.

The science: Our outer layer of skin is called the stratum corneum. It's a mouth full, but in Latin it is called the horny layer and consists of all the corneocytes or dead skin cells. Babies are fortunately to have that youthful glow because their skin cells turn over every 14 days. As we age, the time frame continues to increase. 28 days is the optimal that we shoot for, but you can't stop the aging clock. This turn over does not stop at 28 days either. If you have extra dead skin cells building up, your face could be hiding your best features.

So what do we do about that? We exfoliate! There are 3 main ways to exfoliate the skin ... mechanical, chemical or enzymatic.

Mechanical

95% of you (or more) will think of the scrubbies on the face when I say exfoliate. Manual exfoliation is a great way to get the dead skin cells off quickly, revealing the fresh new skin underneath.

Here's the skinny on this one. DO NOT (I repeat, DO NOT) over exfoliate. Follow the directions on your specific product. If the product says 2-3 times a week at 1 minute, that does not mean that 6 days a week at 3 minutes and 7 seconds is better. One of my main skin care beliefs is that more is not better. Prime example is the mechanical exfoliation.

Chemical

Chemical exfoliations are AHAs or BHAs. AHA or alpha hydroxy acids come from milk (lactic), sugar cane (glycolic), grapes (tartaric), apples (malic), citric (oranges/lemons) and mandelic (bitter almonds.) BHA is beta hydroxy acid and is known as salicylic acid (willow tree).

Think of your skin as a brick wall. While mechanically exfoliating will knock off the top bricks, chemical exfoliation eats away the mortar so the bricks will tumble off on their own. You don't need actual peeling to see results. Newer technology allows for the results without the side effects in many skin care lines. For more dramatic results, come in for a series of chemical peels while using quality products at home.

Enzymatic

This is similar to chemical exfoliation but using gentler products that soothe the skin. Ingredients that are used to do this are papaya and pineapple. This is a great option for those with sensitive skin.

So, you are using the 3 main steps but not exfoliating? Where does exfoliating fit into your steps? If you want to add in exfoliating, I would suggest cleansing, THEN EXFOLIATING, and then finish off with toner/mist and moisturizing. I like to say that you are wasting your money with the $100 serum that you bought if you are not exfoliating. You want the product to get past as much of the dead skin cells as possible and glide easily and effectively so that the product can do what it's supposed to do.

I love exfoliating and offer 4 different take home products just for you. I would love to show them to you!

Active Exfoliating Powder (mechanical, chemical, and enzymatic)

• Reveals the next layer of skin leaving it visibly soft, fresh and luminous

• Ingredients - rice powder, salicylic acid, papaya and pineapple

Intensive Exfoliating Gel (chemical and enzymatic)

• Leaves skin soft and visibly toned

• Ingredients - lactic acid, grapefruit, lime, and lemon oils

Derm Renewal Booster (chemical)

• Visibly tightens pores

• Visibly increases skin's luminosity and smoothes its micro-relief

Derm Renewal Cream (chemical)

• Eliminates dead skin cells and reveals a fresher looking skin

• Hydrates and replensihes the skin's moisture barrier

Let’s me help you pick out the right product for you so that you can get all of the benefits of exfoliating your skin. Schedule an appointment today.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Why Should I get a Facial?

Most people I come across know exactly what a massage is... and as a by product, they also know if they would like one. My stats? 90% would love regular massages and 10% don't want another person touching them.

When asking about facials, many people don't know exactly what a facial is and why they should get one. And it's really no surprised because facials are done so differently... depending on what products are being used, if you are going to a home party or doing a personalized spa treatment, and where in the world you are receiving your treatment.

So let's start by talking about what a facial is with me. I describe a facial as a nice relaxing service that will also begin to address the concerns that you have with your skin. Before your appointment, you will fill out an intake form that gives me a general idea of what you do with your skin at home, skin goals that you would like to achieve, and general health to name a few. Arriving to your appointment, we will discuss the goals for your treatment. You get dressed down to your comfort level and are tucked in luxurious bedding.

The facial process is beautiful and feels so good on your skin. The main steps on the face are to cleanse, exfoliate, apply a treating mist, facial massage or extractions, mask, and all of the finishing products. I use a healing touch to massage the products into the skin. Combine this with the warm towels, application of lotion to arms and hands, and the deep breathing, you not only get glowing skin, but also the mental benefits of a calm and relaxed mind.

If you have acne, we can work on cleaning out pores and decreasing the inflammation. Those with sensitive or red skin will benefit from soothing and hydrating treatments to calm the face. If you are worried about sun spots, we will start first with great exfoliation to remove layers of dead skin from your face. Wrinkles and fine lines will improve through massage movements and the appropriate products to both hydrate and relax the facial muscles while also lifting, tightening and firming the skin. Each and every skin condition can improve with the help of a skilled Esthetician or skin therapist.

So why should you receive a facial? While there are many benefits, here are my top 3 reasons!

1) Improve the overall look and feel of the skin through exfoliation.

Everyone has dead skin cells on the top layer of their skin. The process of removing the dead skin cells is exfoliation and can be done through "scrubbies", chemicals like lactic acid, or enzymes such as papaya. When you exfoliate properly, you will reveal the layer of fresh new skin. If you ever feel like your skin is "lack luster", exfoliation is one thing you can do to help get that youthful look back!

2) Increase circulation helps all of the skin cells do their job proficiently.

During a facial, products are massaged into the skin which improves healthy circulation. With improved circulation also comes with improved capacity for the skin to do whatever job it has been programmed to do more efficiently. In essence, the cells are getting the right energy to keep going and going and going.

3) Relaxation.

In this day and age of run, run, run, then go, go, go ... and never stop because we are constantly plugged in, the chance to turn it off for 60 to 90 minutes and focus on your breath is priceless. Massage therapists will agree with me in saying that both the body and the mind needs time to heal and be calm. With a facial, you receive those same benefits while improving the look of your skin.

Since you were born with only one face, consider keeping it looking healthy, glowing, and youthful by scheduling time to see your skin therapist. The ideal time to rebook is every 4 to 6 weeks. Your Esthetician will also set you up with amazing options for home care so that you can keep your skin as beautiful between appointments as when you first receive your treatment.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician