My Eye is on Milia
Have you ever noticed a small, hard white bump on your skin? If you've gone to pop it and had zero luck, you may be dealing with milia. Most commonly, milia are on the eylids or cheeks.
Like any form of acne, keratin (dead skin cells) get trapped on their way up to the surface of the skin causing a cyst. Milia most often occurs due to using pore clogging ingredients in the area. The skin cannot slough off the dead skin cells fast enough and they glom together to create this pearl like hard bump. Long term exposure to the skin as well as genetics can also play a role in the creation of milia.
Think you can wiggle these out on your own? Think again! These pesky bumps will need exfoliation or extraction. Exfoliation can be through mechanical, chemical, or enzymatic. What does that mean?
Exfoliation
Mechanical are the "scrubbies" - make sure that you use a scrub where they are uniform and not jagged nut particles. These scrubs will not off the top bricks (dead skin cells) helping work these further up the skin to the outer most portion. The microderm treatment is a great one for deep cleaning the face. Spacell also helps at home to keep that exfoliation process continuing.
Chemical are the lactic, gycolic, etc - all of those acid names that are going to eat away the mortar of your brick wall, similar to pac man. Retinols are also considered a chemical exfoliant and work well for acne and anti aging clients. Chemicals like these should not be used close to the eye. Stop at the occipital bone.
Enzymatic are similar to chemical but through are fruit enzymes (chemicals are through fruit acids) - they work like pac man to eat keratin in a more gentle way.
Extraction
Oftentimes when faced with milia, you will want to see a dermatologist or esthetician to perform extractions (removal). This have to be done with a lancet and the right technique. But insto presto... they are out and gone!
Prevention
What do you need to do for your skin in the future if you are prone to milia? Here are a couple of my recommendations.
1) Use appropriate cleanser to remove eye makeup every night.
Look for something that is for the eye area and make sure to remove all product thoroughly. You'll also want to cleanse the skin with something hydrating and appropriate for your skin type.
2) Use a light weight eye cream or gel.
Let's face it. Eye cream, especially for anti aging is important. It is not appropriate to use facial moisturizer around the eye. The skin around the eye is different than the rest of the face. When applying the eye cream, make sure to gently rub it in (ring finger only and very, very light!!!) Do not just set it on the top of the skin.
3) Exfoliate the skin.
Every skin type needs a little help in this department unless you are in your early teens and lower. Consult with your esthetician to find a professional product that will do its job. One of my phrases is more is not always better. The same applies here.
4) SPF is key.
Always, always use SPF. Skin that is damaged by the sun has more tough layers, which makes exfoliation very difficult and is a breeding ground for milia.
If you've got your eye on milia, or the other way around, find a professional to help evaluate what you can do to improve your skin!
Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.
Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician