Deciphering Between New Skin Treatments

It's in your news feed on FaceBook, the tiles on Instagram, and even your favorite Beauty magazines and beauty bloggers are talking about it! You blink and feel like you've missed the last century with information on the latest with skin care. Does this feel familiar to you?

There are SO many new technologies, new research, and new ingredients that regularly hit the skin care world that it's hard to keep track of it all. Many clients have a hard time deciphering between all of the different BUZZ words that are used to describe new services. I'm here to help you remember once and for all what each of them mean and how you can keep them straight.

Microneedling

Microneedling is also known by the names Microchanneling, Collagen Induction Therapy, and C.I.T. You may have even heard of the Vampire Facial or PRP. All of these are related to microneedling but the Vampire Facial or PRP also uses your own platlets (or blood) to promote wound healing and is typically performed in a medical spa. Microneedling is where small needles prick the skin which stimulates collagen production. It is very effective in a series (I always recommend it that way) and can continue to improve the skin's appearance and texture up to six months after your appointment. This service is great for those with light acne scaring, fine lines and wrinkles, and large pores.  Depending on if you are seeing an esthetician or a dermatologist will determine the depth that the small needles can prick the skin. I recommend using great products before treatment and growth factor or stem cell serum after treatment. You will also need mineral makeup to wear for the next week. And it's even better if you can go without! You can be red and irritated for up to a couple days post treatment, but there is very little downtime. 

Making MICRONEEDLING easier to understand --->

What happens when you aerate your lawn in the spring? Sure, it might look a little weird right after it is performed, but then all of a sudden, your grass looks so healthy and beautiful that you want to have a glorious picnic and maybe lay in it. (Was I over dramatic there?) This is the same concept with your skin!

Nanoneedling

Nanoneedling is also known as Nano Infusion Therapy. If microneedling is something you've been thinking about, but you aren't quite ready to do that, this would be a baby step in the right direction. This treatment creates micro pathways to deliver serums and other nutrients from the skin care past the dead skin cells where they can more fully be utilized. This treatment also works well to treat those who would like to work on light acne scaring, fine lines and wrinkles, and larger pores. It's also great for those with sensitive skin. I love this technology so much, that I've added it into the newest member of our facial line up - The Cinderella.

Making NANONEEDLING easier to understand --->

Imagine a tiny waffle plate (elf size) that shake down products into the skin. You feel a vibration, but it's not painful and still delivers a powerful punch. Nano is less than micro as far as how far the products can penetrate the skin.

Dermaplaning 

Dermaplaning is an amazing and favorite exfoliation treatment.  It's also known as microplaning or blading. It was first mentioned in the 1970s, but have continuned to gain steam in the United States as an exceptional alternative to chemical exfoliation. (Can I get an AMEN from all of the nursing and pregnant mamas out there?) All walks of life LOVE this service because it is known for its immediate glow on the skin. Dermaplaning uses a dermatological scalpel which glides back and forth on the skin, picking up dead skin cells as well as the peach fuzz. It feels like a credit card is moving across each section of your face. The results are instant and include better product penetration, smoother looking makeup, and reducing the appearance of acne scaring, among many others.

Making it easier to understand --->

This exfoliation service removes the very outer layer of dead skin cells as well as the vellus hair on the face, revealing smoother, brighter skin for improved skin tone and texture. Think of a PLANE landing on a runway and barely touching down.  

Microblading

Microblading also known as embroidery, feather touch, hair-like strokes or even 3D brows. This technique first came to the scene about 25 years ago in Asia and finally took hold of the western population about 2015. This semi permanent makeup service is performed on the brows to create strokes that look like the actual brow hairs. You'll want to find an artist that has been certified in this procedure and that has a great portfolio of his or her own work. The hairs should never cross. Permanent makeup is a great option for those who have sparse and/or aging brows. Touch ups are recommended every 12-18 months. While considered 'permanent', it is actually a semi permanent treatment as the colors fade out in the skin but never leave completely. 

Making it easier to understand --->

Think of the letter M to stand for - micro/makeup. This looks like hairstrokes, can be done with different tools and will save you time drawing on eyebrows each day.

If you have other questions about these or other treatments, please don't hesitate to reach out!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do You Keep Your Skin Smooth?

As an esthetician, I love treating clients to all services, including lash lifts, waxing, and facials. When I do a facial treatment, many times I am surprised at the texture of the skin. It may not look rough, but upon touch, it really is rough! So if many clients have this problem, how do we solve it? I would like to offer two recommendations today. One is to exfoliate at home and the other is to have regular treatments that focus on exfoliation.

Exfoliation at home

There are three types of exfoliation - mechanical, chemical and enzymatic. I love all three. Mechanical are the scrubbing action that has a little grit (No Karen! Walk away from the St. Ives Apricot Scrub), chemical is acids (such as the Cleopatra bathing in milk which is lactic acid keeping the skin smooth and soft), and enzymatic (comes from fruits - most common in my experience is papaya and pineapple). 

Your skin type determines which is better for you! If you are aging, have broken blood vessels, sensitive skin or inflamed acne, do not use mechanical exfoliation. The chemical and enzymatic exfoliation comes in mask form. The enzymatic is much more gentle on the skin. Seek direction and guidance from your esthetician to determine which type is right for you and they will help you select a product. 

Spa Treatments that focus on exfoliation

There are many spa treatments that focus on exfoliation. Two that I will mention today are dermaplaning as chemical peels.

Dermaplaning is a clients favorite and known for the instant glow you receive, the smooth application of makeup and increased circulation of the skin. Clients remark that they can feel the air on their face differently (in a better way of course.) Products applied after you do this professional treatment really go into the skin better because they don't have to fight against the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Using a dermatological scalpel, the blade will gently glide back and forth on the skin primarily picking up and removing dead skin cells. It also will take off any peach fuzz on your face which does 'dull' your color. This results in that instant glow! (PS - Remember that you need to stop exfoliating before you come in and not exfoliate for 3 to 5 days after you come for your service! Otherwise, you'll make your skin feel more sensitive.)

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are very effective to do. A chemical exfoliation loosens the glue that holds the dead skin cells together, much like how a brick wall is held together with mortar. Chemical peels have come a long way in their days. Physicians began using deeper peels in 1882 using resorcinol, TCA, salicylic and phenol. These peels were very deep and aggressive. The peels we use today are superficial peels, meaning that they are working solely on the epidermis. A chemical exfoliation does not need to cause flaking and peeling to be working. New technology allows for peels to work without having downtime. It is also important to note that if you are taking care of your skin by regularly doing the right home exfoliation, you will not see a lot of dead skin cells coming off because you are doing an efficient job removing them on a weekly basis. So give yourself a high five!

A chemical peel comes from acids in either AHA or BHA. AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acids and BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acids. Lactic, glycolic, tartaric, citric, and malic acids are AHAs. Salicylic acid is a BHA. (You'll also note that these acids are also used in home care too!) Some of my favorite benefits from a chemical exfoliation are improved texture of the skin, barrier function, and moisture retention; increased hydration of the skin; reduced fine lines and wrinkles; improved acne and clogged pores; and skin that looks and feels smoother and softer.  

All of the clinical treatments offered by GM Collin can be performed with a chemical peel. My favorite to do with the peel is the AlgoMask. This has a thermal cooling effect on the skin that also pushes the serum deeper into the epidermis with it's rubberizing mask (did you just mention Mrs. DoubtFire?) Your skin feels different for days. This was the first GM Collin clinical facial that I received and BOY ... it did not disappoint. All peels by GM Collin are formulated to work without causing the traditional downtime. This means that you can see results without having to hide your skin for a week.

By choosing to do both exfoliation at home and services in the treatment room, you are sure to get the best of both worlds. Professional products at home are going to also get you a head start on your skin, improving the texture and giving you a healthy, beautiful glow to the skin. Working with your esthetician will help to train your skin to be the best that it can by slowing down the aging process. 

Is Waxing or Dermaplaning Better?

When explaining hair removal options, I often get asked whether Dermaplaning or Waxing is better? These treatments are both amazing options, but work in different ways.

Dermaplaning's first job is to the exfoliate the skin. This is done by gently moving a dermatological scalpel back and forth on the skin. The scalpel picks up the dead skin cells away from the healthy skin cells. What does Dermaplaning feel like? I think that the best descriptions are a credit card is sliding back and forth on the skin or a cat's tongue is licking your face. While exfoliating is number one, as a by product mostly of the peach fuzz hair on the face is also removed in the process.

Want an instant glow? Dermaplane. Would you like better makeup application? Dermaplane. Would you like your products to do their job 100%? Dermaplane.

Waxing's first job is to remove unwanted and unsightly hair. There are 2 different types of wax: hard wax which sets up completely and soft wax, which uses strips to remove. I only use hard wax on the face, as it is more gentle and works by essentially shrink wrapping the wax around the hairs of the skin. What does waxing feel like? I would describe this service to have a little bit of sting or tingle. The pain is very short lived. Clients may be a little pink for a couple hours after a wax which is very normal. While removing hair is the first priority of this service, waxing will also naturally pick up a little of the dead skin cells that are ready to go.

Want to remove dark or coarse hair? Wax. Want smoother skin for a longer period of time? Wax. Would you like facial hair to grow in a little finer and softer? Wax.

So let's review. The Dermaplaning service exfoliates first and removes hair second. Having a waxing treatment removes hair first and exfoliates the skin second. The main benefits of Dermaplaning are to give you an instant glow, give you better makeup application, and better product penetration. The main benefits of Waxing are to remove dark hair, have a smoother feel of the face for a longer period, and for facial hair to grow in a little finer and softer most of the time. I should note that dark, coarse facial hair is related to hormonal changes and it's always a good idea to get those checked with your doctor.

I also will offer to include waxing the upper lip with a Dermaplane service, so you can get the best of both worlds! When looking at your skin, I will let you know if this is what I recommend for you to do.

Let's set up a treatment that is right for you!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

How Often Should I...? Part II Treatments

While home skin care should always be number 1 over coming to see a professional, treatments done with your Esthetician can be very effective and boost what you are doing on your own. If you were to hold up a mirror and look back at the image that you see, what would you change? Some of us would like to work on fine lines and wrinkles, some acne scarring would be gone first, and others really would like to see the age spots disappear like a magic trick. Whatever you would like to work on, make sure that you team up with a professional so that we can get the job done together!

When working with me, the first things that we address are hydration of the skin and sensitivity. It doesn't make sense to start on the 2nd level of the house, when the ground floor issues are hydration and sensitivity. Starting there, once these have corrected as best we can (usually 1-2 months), we can move on. We could then work on the above issues of anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, and acne (active or old scarring.)

I offer many tools to get the job done and depending on how your skin responds to the treatments, your open time to spend with me, and your budget, we put together a plan of "How often you should see your esthetician." In general, once a month for maintenance is amazing. If this is not possible, it is VITAL that you come in every quarter for a deep cleanse, exfoliation, and nourishment of the skin as the seasons change. Yes, it's Idaho and we have 4 seasons! So about every 3 months. Microneedling, Specialty Facials, and Chemical Peels excel in a series treatment. They are designed to build upon each other! But the more regularly you come, the greater the results you will see down the road as your skin begins to age.

Currently, I offer the following treatments to address your concerns: Microneedling, Microdermabrasion, Signature Facials (both in 90 or 60 minutes), Specialty Facials (Algomask and Hydrolifting), Chemical Peels, and Dermaplaning. All of these have value and most of the time, mixing and matching is ideal as you want to keep your skin guessing and using all of the great options to help your skin heal, glow, and revitalize to it's optimal blueprint.

I love making custom plans, so please contact me and we'll come up with something that will work well for you, your skin, and your skin care goals.

You'll spend $XXX on a purse you'll use for 2 years. How much will you spend on your face that you will have for a lifetime? $XXX It's worth your investment!

Don’t forget to Breathe . Let Go . Relax .

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician