My Eye is on Milia

Have you ever noticed a small, hard white bump on your skin? If you've gone to pop it and had zero luck, you may be dealing with milia. Most commonly, milia are on the eylids or cheeks.

Like any form of acne, keratin (dead skin cells) get trapped on their way up to the surface of the skin causing a cyst. Milia most often occurs due to using pore clogging ingredients in the area. The skin cannot slough off the dead skin cells fast enough and they glom together to create this pearl like hard bump. Long term exposure to the skin as well as genetics can also play a role in the creation of milia.

Think you can wiggle these out on your own? Think again! These pesky bumps will need exfoliation or extraction. Exfoliation can be through mechanical, chemical, or enzymatic. What does that mean?

Exfoliation

Mechanical are the "scrubbies" - make sure that you use a scrub where they are uniform and not jagged nut particles. These scrubs will not off the top bricks (dead skin cells) helping work these further up the skin to the outer most portion. The microderm treatment is a great one for deep cleaning the face. Spacell also helps at home to keep that exfoliation process continuing.

Chemical are the lactic, gycolic, etc - all of those acid names that are going to eat away the mortar of your brick wall, similar to pac man. Retinols are also considered a chemical exfoliant and work well for acne and anti aging clients. Chemicals like these should not be used close to the eye. Stop at the occipital bone.

Enzymatic are similar to chemical but through are fruit enzymes (chemicals are through fruit acids) - they work like pac man to eat keratin in a more gentle way.

Extraction

Oftentimes when faced with milia, you will want to see a dermatologist or esthetician to perform extractions (removal). This have to be done with a lancet and the right technique. But insto presto... they are out and gone!

Prevention

What do you need to do for your skin in the future if you are prone to milia? Here are a couple of my recommendations.

1) Use appropriate cleanser to remove eye makeup every night.

Look for something that is for the eye area and make sure to remove all product thoroughly. You'll also want to cleanse the skin with something hydrating and appropriate for your skin type.

2) Use a light weight eye cream or gel.

Let's face it. Eye cream, especially for anti aging is important. It is not appropriate to use facial moisturizer around the eye. The skin around the eye is different than the rest of the face. When applying the eye cream, make sure to gently rub it in (ring finger only and very, very light!!!) Do not just set it on the top of the skin.

3) Exfoliate the skin.

Every skin type needs a little help in this department unless you are in your early teens and lower. Consult with your esthetician to find a professional product that will do its job. One of my phrases is more is not always better. The same applies here.

4) SPF is key.

Always, always use SPF. Skin that is damaged by the sun has more tough layers, which makes exfoliation very difficult and is a breeding ground for milia.

If you've got your eye on milia, or the other way around, find a professional to help evaluate what you can do to improve your skin!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Top 3 Reasons Acne Stays

Ahhh! The dreaded acne. As teenagers, this is something to be expected perhaps. Still, it is an unwelcomed house guest that we can't wait to see go! Maybe you are in your 20s and are noticing these blemishes appear on your skin overnight. 30s and still seeing problems along with a change of hormones and overwhelming stress. And 40s! What?!?! Say that it can't be true that you can get acne in your 40s.

Whichever phase you find yourself in, let me suggest my top 3 reasons why acne stays, hanging on for dear life.

1) Picking

There... I said it. Picking. Even I will catch myself running my fingers along my jawline only for one of the digits to make contact with a bump. And I scratch, pick, and try to manipulate that bump to come out of my skin. The story from there continues because once I know it's there, I can't stop. Even today, my children's dentist told me that he read you touch your face 32,000 times a day!!!

Has this happened to you? I can relate and sympathize. But it's a problem. And there's a reason why I put it at the number one spot on my list. Picking spreads the P. acnes (Propionibacterium acnes) on the skin. Once you start, you likely can't stop, so you are literally spreading bacteria all day long on your face or other body areas afflicted.

Solution

Recognize if there are certain times of day it occurs, or when you pass a mirror, etc. Write yourself reminder on the bathroom vanity with a dry erase or sticky note. Switch activities. Wash your hands, drink more water, read a good book... do anything besides picking!

2) Using Too Harsh Of Ingredients

Many acne clients like the feel of a scrub or the tingle of a cleanser. But, let me be clear. Just because it's a stronger product does not mean it's right for your skin. Acne is plagued with inflammation and so if you increase inflammation, your acne will likely have a hard time clearing on the skin.

Aggressive scrubs should be thrown out if you have grade III or IV acne. Toners that have alcohol must too hit the garbage. Often the right gentle products will be more effective (working in a quicker time frame and actually targeting the different types of acne) than if you pick the strongest percentages of an acid.

Solution

Work with a licensed professional to seek products that will help kill the acne WHILE preserving the barrier of your skin, which is the skin's main function.

3) Not Finding The Real Symptoms

Sure, you used a product for 3 months and you think you are healed. Maybe you decide to go off of the products OR you are still using them and the unwelcomed house guest announces it has to stay for an undetermined amount. Sadly, many times this is what acne clients (and maybe you) have faced.

Let me give you some hope here. Truth - Acne is a disease. While it cannot be cured, it can be CONTROLLED! This means that you must find out the real reason why your acne started and is staying. This could be stress, diet, external or internal factors. Those in the field have spent their entire lifetimes researching and studying and writing on this one topic. And they have learned so much about pimples, cysts, nodules, etc.

Solution

Work with a licensed professional to investigate the root of the problem. Many times there are simple things you can do to turn around everything in your skin. If researchers spend years searching for answers, it would be to your benefit to use this research first. (You can research on your own, but how do you even know where to start? Google can only help you if you are typing in the correct searches.)

I love working with acne clients. It takes patience, perseverance, and most importantly the courage to say, "I need help." I'll help you! Let's kick out the unwelcomed guest once and for all!

Don’t forget to Breathe . Let Go . Relax .

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Update Your Makeup Look

With anything in life, we become comfortable with our looks. Like your favorite pair of jeans or bangs that you've had since high school, change can be hard. We try on a new outfit at the store and then immediately put it back because it feels different and you aren't sure. Bring the "honest" friend of the group to the store, and they'll let you know if you can pull it off. But what about your makeup? I'll be your "honest" friend and guide you through making some changes!

First things first. There are some things that you should probably stop doing. The top on my list is blush that goes from the apples of your cheeks all the way back to your hair. Blue might be your favorite color, but you probably shouldn't wear it as your eyeshadow or eyeliner anymore. OR colored mascara. If you are wearing a super light concealer under your eyes, it's time to exchange that out. Lastly, but maybe most important, brows are big and bold right now. Thin and slender is out.

So now that we have the what not to dos, let's focus on what to do and how to make sure you can pull off new makeup!

Blush

Place lightly but directly to the apples of the cheeks and meld it into the contour. (Don't worry... we'll get to the contour part.)

Eyeshadows

Matte is in and so are neutral colors. You can add in a little glimmer and sparkle, but blending is paramount.

Mascara

Black, brown/black, or brown is all that you need. If you put mascara on your bottom lashes, it will actually drag down your face. Still not sold? Do you mascara normal on one eye and then don't add the lower lashes to the other side. Then take a picture and evaluate.

Concealer

Pick a color that is brighter, not lighter. Too light actually looks white. Trust me, it doesn't look good.

Brows

This may take time to grow back hair, but in the meantime, you can lightly fill them in with a pencil or eyeshadow with a brush (I prefer the eyeshadow) and use a spoolie (looks like a mascara wand without any product) to buff it out.

Contour

Contour will help your face look 3 dimensional. Place it in the natural shadows of your face, which includes the top of the forehead, underneath your cheek bones, under (not on) the jawline, and a thin line of each side of the nose. Make sure to buff and blend.

Still confused and not sure where to start? Make a makeup consult with me and I'll show you everything I know, answer your questions, and take a before/after picture for you so that you can see the difference. Embrace change and embrace your natural beauty. Let's enhance your features instead of covering them up!

Don’t forget to Breathe . Let Go . Relax .

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

How Often Should I...? Part II Treatments

While home skin care should always be number 1 over coming to see a professional, treatments done with your Esthetician can be very effective and boost what you are doing on your own. If you were to hold up a mirror and look back at the image that you see, what would you change? Some of us would like to work on fine lines and wrinkles, some acne scarring would be gone first, and others really would like to see the age spots disappear like a magic trick. Whatever you would like to work on, make sure that you team up with a professional so that we can get the job done together!

When working with me, the first things that we address are hydration of the skin and sensitivity. It doesn't make sense to start on the 2nd level of the house, when the ground floor issues are hydration and sensitivity. Starting there, once these have corrected as best we can (usually 1-2 months), we can move on. We could then work on the above issues of anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, and acne (active or old scarring.)

I offer many tools to get the job done and depending on how your skin responds to the treatments, your open time to spend with me, and your budget, we put together a plan of "How often you should see your esthetician." In general, once a month for maintenance is amazing. If this is not possible, it is VITAL that you come in every quarter for a deep cleanse, exfoliation, and nourishment of the skin as the seasons change. Yes, it's Idaho and we have 4 seasons! So about every 3 months. Microneedling, Specialty Facials, and Chemical Peels excel in a series treatment. They are designed to build upon each other! But the more regularly you come, the greater the results you will see down the road as your skin begins to age.

Currently, I offer the following treatments to address your concerns: Microneedling, Microdermabrasion, Signature Facials (both in 90 or 60 minutes), Specialty Facials (Algomask and Hydrolifting), Chemical Peels, and Dermaplaning. All of these have value and most of the time, mixing and matching is ideal as you want to keep your skin guessing and using all of the great options to help your skin heal, glow, and revitalize to it's optimal blueprint.

I love making custom plans, so please contact me and we'll come up with something that will work well for you, your skin, and your skin care goals.

You'll spend $XXX on a purse you'll use for 2 years. How much will you spend on your face that you will have for a lifetime? $XXX It's worth your investment!

Don’t forget to Breathe . Let Go . Relax .

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Learning about Acne

I am passionate about skin and everything skin. But acne does hold a special place in my heart. This disease can not only scar the skin, but it can also scar the soul and change how others believe they are being perceived. It can change you. I have recently had a "few" stubborn pimples. If you are frustrated and ready to say goodbye like I have, read below for 3 basic tips.

Schedule regular treatments and use professional products. Treatments with your esthetician can be very effective in deep cleansing, exfoliation, and extractions of blackheads. These are things that your skincare professional will do for you. These treatments boost what you are doing at home! 90% of what can change with your skin is done at home. That means that YOU play a very big role in how quickly your skin recovers (or worsens). I always will give you recommendations that work for you personally.

Ice, ice baby! No, not the song, but go ahead and sing it if it helps you remember. If you are suffering from larger pimples that are red, raised, and sore, ice will be your best friend. Just twice a day for a couple minutes. This removes the inflammation and helps for the acne to go away quicker. We all want that right?

Don't pick and scratch! This is a hard one for many. The easiest way to stop is to throw away all those mirrors and to write down and acknowledge when you pick. Do you pick because you are bored, watching TV, or just resting your hands on your chin? Recognize your triggers and then do something different instead.

Through my research, I've learned many things and would love to share them with those who many have a "few" or "many" pimples that they are interested in taking care of. Each appointment will have a new handout to help my client heal more quickly and identify triggers that may be causing the acne. Can't wait to see you!

Don’t forget to Breathe . Let Go . Relax .

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

After the Skin Treatment

Facial Treatments are not only fun and pampering, but also quite effective in helping keep that youthful glow and encouraging skin cells to turn over at an optimal rate. I offer several Facial Treatments, but a couple of my favorites are the MicroNeedling, Microdermabrasion (or Microderm for short), and the 90 minute Signature Facial. Everytime you have a skin treatment, be sure to follow your esthetician's post care advice. Here's what I recommend:

Wear SPF. I cannot say this enough. Environmental factors are the #1 cause of aging. Yes, that's right (not genetic factors.) Your skin may be more suspectible to rays for a couple days post treatment, so SPF is a must! I recommend the GM Collins Dry Touch 50 SPF. Easy to reapply and compliments any skin care that you are currently using.

Drink extra water. Hydration is key to our skin, though our other vitals organs take the majority first before they get to the largest organ (the skin). I add a very relaxing facial massage to my treatment, so bump up your intake the day you come to see me.

Change your pillowcase. We've exfoliated your skin and put some incredible serums on your skin to work on your targeted concerns. The last thing that you want to do is put your face on a dirty pillowcase. Simply to do, right?

Don’t forget to Breathe . Let Go . Relax .

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician