Deciphering Between New Skin Treatments

It's in your news feed on FaceBook, the tiles on Instagram, and even your favorite Beauty magazines and beauty bloggers are talking about it! You blink and feel like you've missed the last century with information on the latest with skin care. Does this feel familiar to you?

There are SO many new technologies, new research, and new ingredients that regularly hit the skin care world that it's hard to keep track of it all. Many clients have a hard time deciphering between all of the different BUZZ words that are used to describe new services. I'm here to help you remember once and for all what each of them mean and how you can keep them straight.

Microneedling

Microneedling is also known by the names Microchanneling, Collagen Induction Therapy, and C.I.T. You may have even heard of the Vampire Facial or PRP. All of these are related to microneedling but the Vampire Facial or PRP also uses your own platlets (or blood) to promote wound healing and is typically performed in a medical spa. Microneedling is where small needles prick the skin which stimulates collagen production. It is very effective in a series (I always recommend it that way) and can continue to improve the skin's appearance and texture up to six months after your appointment. This service is great for those with light acne scaring, fine lines and wrinkles, and large pores.  Depending on if you are seeing an esthetician or a dermatologist will determine the depth that the small needles can prick the skin. I recommend using great products before treatment and growth factor or stem cell serum after treatment. You will also need mineral makeup to wear for the next week. And it's even better if you can go without! You can be red and irritated for up to a couple days post treatment, but there is very little downtime. 

Making MICRONEEDLING easier to understand --->

What happens when you aerate your lawn in the spring? Sure, it might look a little weird right after it is performed, but then all of a sudden, your grass looks so healthy and beautiful that you want to have a glorious picnic and maybe lay in it. (Was I over dramatic there?) This is the same concept with your skin!

Nanoneedling

Nanoneedling is also known as Nano Infusion Therapy. If microneedling is something you've been thinking about, but you aren't quite ready to do that, this would be a baby step in the right direction. This treatment creates micro pathways to deliver serums and other nutrients from the skin care past the dead skin cells where they can more fully be utilized. This treatment also works well to treat those who would like to work on light acne scaring, fine lines and wrinkles, and larger pores. It's also great for those with sensitive skin. I love this technology so much, that I've added it into the newest member of our facial line up - The Cinderella.

Making NANONEEDLING easier to understand --->

Imagine a tiny waffle plate (elf size) that shake down products into the skin. You feel a vibration, but it's not painful and still delivers a powerful punch. Nano is less than micro as far as how far the products can penetrate the skin.

Dermaplaning 

Dermaplaning is an amazing and favorite exfoliation treatment.  It's also known as microplaning or blading. It was first mentioned in the 1970s, but have continuned to gain steam in the United States as an exceptional alternative to chemical exfoliation. (Can I get an AMEN from all of the nursing and pregnant mamas out there?) All walks of life LOVE this service because it is known for its immediate glow on the skin. Dermaplaning uses a dermatological scalpel which glides back and forth on the skin, picking up dead skin cells as well as the peach fuzz. It feels like a credit card is moving across each section of your face. The results are instant and include better product penetration, smoother looking makeup, and reducing the appearance of acne scaring, among many others.

Making it easier to understand --->

This exfoliation service removes the very outer layer of dead skin cells as well as the vellus hair on the face, revealing smoother, brighter skin for improved skin tone and texture. Think of a PLANE landing on a runway and barely touching down.  

Microblading

Microblading also known as embroidery, feather touch, hair-like strokes or even 3D brows. This technique first came to the scene about 25 years ago in Asia and finally took hold of the western population about 2015. This semi permanent makeup service is performed on the brows to create strokes that look like the actual brow hairs. You'll want to find an artist that has been certified in this procedure and that has a great portfolio of his or her own work. The hairs should never cross. Permanent makeup is a great option for those who have sparse and/or aging brows. Touch ups are recommended every 12-18 months. While considered 'permanent', it is actually a semi permanent treatment as the colors fade out in the skin but never leave completely. 

Making it easier to understand --->

Think of the letter M to stand for - micro/makeup. This looks like hairstrokes, can be done with different tools and will save you time drawing on eyebrows each day.

If you have other questions about these or other treatments, please don't hesitate to reach out!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Why is My Skin So Dry in the Winter?

If you have ever experienced an Idaho winter, you'll know that it gets extremely dry. Not only do we feel it from our nose to our toes, our hands can experience cracking and bleeding from washing frequently and keeping away the germs. Our face is exposed to the outer elements throughout the year. So even though the lack of humidity occurs all year round, you may be wondering why it's extra bad in the winter.

The main culprit is not the lack of humidity, the fewer hours of daylight, or even the colder temperatures. Have you guessed it yet? The answer is the forced hot air to keep us warm! Since we can't live in igloos from November through February (or even October through March), here are some options to help ease the dry skin woes.

One of the main things you can do is to BEEF UP your skin care routine. In addition to daily cleansing, misting, and moisturizing, you may want to add in one or more of the following: Hydrating Mask, Daily Ceramide Comfort, Double up the Moisturizer by adding in a Serum, or a Night Cream.

Hydrating Mask 

A hydrating mask can be for any type of skin. Instead of focusing on the lack of oil, these will generally focus on the lack of water in the skin. Masking is one of the easiest way to help the skin with a big impact. When you mask, you will apply it on the face and then wait 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse and wipe dry with a cloth and add your finishing touches. I recommend that you use a mask 2 to 3 times a week to see the best results. If you skin starts feeling bad normally in November, you'll want to increase what you are doing in October. Don't wait until your skin is super bad to start or it will take longer to see the results. 

Daily Ceramide Comfort

This tiny little gold nugget has been a lifesaver for my clients. Generally, I have my clients use them as a boost to their skin once a week, but as shown in the name, you can use these daily. Again, start early and use them at night. These not only feel amazing, they really do wonders for the face and are for all skin types. This product is considered a 911 product and is an antioxidant while nourishing and protecting the skin from the elements.

A serum!

Did you know that serums are a smaller molecular weight, meaning they can go deeper into the skin? I love using a serum because I know what I'm applying to my skin is sinking in and working below the dead skin cells. Choosing on that has hyaluronic acid is a sure bet, because that ingredient holds it weight 1,000 times of water.

Night cream

Inherently, a night cream is thicker and creamier than something you wear during the day. Our skin is on a circadian rhythm, so it heals and repairs at night. That's why many product lines include a night cream. A moisturizer that aids in the healing and repairing process will definitely help your skin in the winter. It's important to note that some of the night creams may be too heavy to wear for those that are prone to acne.

In addition to products, there are a couple more things that might be able to help your skin in the frigid temperatures. My favorites include drinking water, vitamin c, limiting hot baths, and increasing the humidity. 

Drink Up!

Water is very important for our skin and other vital organs. In the spring and summer, our body gives us more signals letting us know that we are hot and we literally feel thirsty. It almost screams to hand over the biggest glass of ice water! Our body still needs that same amount of water in the water, but we don't get the same cue. Carry around your favorite water bottle to make sure you are rehydrating your cells throughout the day.

Vitamin C

There are many dietary changes that you can make for your skin, but this is one of my favorites. Vitamin C is an antioxidant which means it helps to protect the skin from UV rays and other outside elements. It can help tighten the skin's barrier which helps to keep the good stuff (moisture barrier, lipids, and more) in the skin and repels the bad stuff like free radicals.

Limit hot baths

Okay, okay! I'm guilty as charged. This girl right here LOVES a good, hot bath. Sometimes more than once a day! But the hot baths can increase dehydration at a rapid pace. Without drinking as much as we should, this definitely can aid in the dryness of your skin cells. 

Add in some humidity

The forced hot air is something we can't really change, but we can add the humidity in the air by using a humidifier. Humidifier emit water vapor or steam into the air which increases the air's humidity. The mountain west is always dry, so this is something that you could do all year round if you wanted to.

In case you need a recap, your dry skin is most likely due to the forced heat in the winter. During this time, step up your skin care game about a month before you typically feel dry, drink water everyday even when you don't feel thirsty, make sure that you are adding vitamin c into your diet, limit hot baths, and increase the humidity by using a humidifier. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

At Austin Kade in Idaho Falls, one of the many assignments for esthetics school was to create a business plan. I believe that the  students got out of it what they put into it. Some students made colorful full sized posters and multiple page spreadsheets. Others spent 20 minutes, hastily writing on a lined sheet of paper with a pen, tearing it from the spiral bound notebook right before their presentation. I put together a power point presentation with #allthethings. I spent a lot of time thinking about this. But not only this, I spent time dreaming from my heart. Because just going to esthetics school was a dream come true for me (more than 5 years after I wanted to do this career path.) The power point included a floor plan, equipment that I would have, products that would be used, a service menu that included pricing ... and even a name.

When I started to come up with a name for my business, I wanted it to be fun, bright, and relaxing. I immediately thought about my VERY favorite pair of bright green flip flops that I purchased from Fred Meyers in 2004 to match a swim suit. If you have known me, you've known that I LOVE this pair of flip flops (until they finally fell apart in 2018 in the middle of Wal-Mart - haha!) They were something that I've worn all the time, except for Idaho winters. They were comfy, they were a perfect fit, they went with everything (although some would have argued with me!) In my mind, these green flip flops were ESSENTIAL. 

Thus, for a lack of more inspiration, I settled on the business name of Essential Esthetics by Zoey. I feel like the services and benefits that are offered ARE essential. Esthetics of course is all about skincare, waxing, and lashes. I later added on a tag line that I fell in love with as well that was a reminder for me and for my clients. The tag line was Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Our lives are busy and we are constantly on the go. If you are a woman, you probably not only have a profession and career, you probably also have kids that have their own activities. So you are a taxi driver. But then also a cook, maid, friend, partner, etc, etc etc. So many hats to wear. My tag line was to inspire those that come in to have a brazilian wax or rejuvenating facial (or any other service in between) to not only believe in self care, but also to practice it. Self care is all about taking care of yourself so that you can then take care of others and show up in life more present and in a better way. 

So here is my hope for each and every client! When you walk through the door to the treatment room to Essential Esthetics by Zoey, it's a chance to close out the outside world and set down your every present calendar. Take off your shoes and lie on the treatment table to prepare for your service. And then, in order, you will do this. Pause your talking for a moment. BREATHE in and out. Deep breaths that fill your lungs and soul. As you settle in and let your muscles melt into the pillow top, you will LET GO of the negative thoughts, the to do list you are carrying in your head, and the weight and burdens that you may be carrying in your heart. And finally, as you breathe and let go, you finally are able to really RELAX. One definition of relax is: rest and engage in an enjoyable activity so as to become less tired or anxious. 

Here is just one review from a satisfied client Nikki on Google Reviews. She says: " Zoey is a master of relaxation. I am a busy retailer and mom of three & never have time to relax. Maybe twice a year, I get massages but the facial I experienced from her was hands down the most relaxing and rejuvenating thing I can remember doing. Amazing. I would highly recommend scheduling an appointment today. She will not stay Pocatello/Chubbuck's best kept secret for long." 

Come and stay awhile. Let's help you practice self care. Let's help you achieve your skin care goals. And then don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax. See you next time! Muah!

Zoey Jolley, LE

Take Your Eye Care to the Next Level

Ever feel like last night's sleep was literally a 20 minute cat nap? You might be dragging in the morning, but it's time to get the kids up, start breakfast and a load of laundry, throw your hair in a messy bun and get everyone out the door. So, why does your eyes show when you are fatigued and what can you do about it?

There are a couple reasons why the eye area can show the tiredness of your soul. As I was researching this topic, I found answers that both surprised me and also the ones that made me shake my head yes. The hard yeses were allergies (hello spring!), your age, and genetics. These all play a role in how the skin under your eyes look. Ones that I didn't even think about were your bone structure (simply how your eyes are set and the way the light reflects in your eyes), having eye strain, salty foods, and dehydration. But these make sense right??? Some of these are easier to fix than others. Things we cannot fix are our bone structure, genetics, and our age. We can work to eliminate eye strain (limit usage of computers or at least wear blue light filter glasses), take allergy medication as directed by a doctor, decrease salty foods, and increase hydration.

Something that I see that were not mentioned in my research are the use of regular products under the eye. If a client feels dry under their eye, they think a reasonable answer is to moisturize it. So they use they face moisturizer everywhere. Unfortunately, the thin skin under the eye cannot receive the ingredients the same way our face can. So that product can either just sit there, or it may even have adverse reactions such as more irritation or milia (hard, crystalized sebum that becomes trapped under the skin.) Pick an eye cream or serum that is suitable for the delicate skin there.

Also, Americans are best at thinking more is best! 'More is not always better' is one of my personal skin care philosophies. Being aggressive in the eye area does nothing but irritate and help promote the fine lines and wrinkles to show more prominently. Only use the ring finger under the eye. Eye products (unless specified) should only be applied under the eye to the bottom of the brow. I like to dot, dot, dot, then spread one to two times from the inner corner to the outer corner gently. Just to make sure the product is spread evenly, but not more than that. Remember that more is not always better. 

Self Care

Self care is what I stand for! It's so important that you take care of your body, your mind and spirit each and everyday. This includes sleep. Of course there are times in our lives where we are limited by the amount of sleep we can get (like when we have a newborn.) Do what you can and even use power naps if you need to. Pick things that uplift your spirit and mind and do them consistently. If you need ideas on other ways to increase your self care, check out these blog posts - Self Care in 2018 (published Jan 1, 2018) or How Do I Practice Self Care (published Feb 1, 2020).

First and foremost, 

Home Care

There are so many amazing and quality eye products out there, but I would like to share three of my personal favorites.

GM Collin Instant Radiance Anti-Aging Eye Patch

In just 20 minutes, take care of fatigue, fine lines, wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles. This favorite product of Meghan Markle is simple and easy to use. Just place the patches underneath the eyes, wait 20 minutes, and remove. They can be used overnight for more severe eye area concerns. This product contains hydrolyzed manihot esculenta tuber extract plus green tea and oak complex with acetyl tetreapeptide-5.

GM Collin Bota-Peptide Eye Contour

This #1 GM Collin eye product contains 6 peptides including Argireline, Myoxinol, Matrixyl 3000, Eyeliss, and Haloxyl. Add to that list caffeine and vitamin K and that makes a powerful punch to give eyes more radiant and youthful appearance while helping prevent signs of aging. This product prolongs the effects of Botox and is a client favorite.

Viktoria Deann PEPTIDE-Eye Serum

Great things come in small packages and this is no exception. This new favorite of mine includes green tea extract, soluble collagen, and UET-3 peptide to work to increase hydration and work as an antioxidant. This product feels like it is smoothing out the fine lines while tightening and firming. It's got my stamp of approval, and I know you'll love it too!

In the Spa

In addition to self care and home care, I offer a clinical care treatment called Collagen Sublime Eye Contour. This facial is divine and provides results in just one treatment. It visibly minimizes the signs of aging, relieve dark circles and puffiness for refreshed, radiant eyes. This service also quenches the skin, leaving it well hydrated. 

I love this treatment for a lot of different reasons. First, it uses the Signature Collagen Pellicle. GM Collin skin care line was developed after nurses who were treating burn victims with this pellicle were experiencing amazing results on their hands. Second, the mask really does make me feel like a super hero, and who doesn't want to flex their powers! Third, the results of softening the signs of aging and fatigue really deliver, making it a popular option for clients.

By recognizing some things that may be causing dark circles, puffiness and more in the eye area, we are better equipped with tools to help us both accept our limitations (age, genetics) and help smooth and calm down these concerns (self care, home care, and spa treatments.) Although we may not be able to solve all the world's problems, I hope we can brighten your eye area concerns and take your eye care to the next level!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do You Keep Your Skin Smooth?

As an esthetician, I love treating clients to all services, including lash lifts, waxing, and facials. When I do a facial treatment, many times I am surprised at the texture of the skin. It may not look rough, but upon touch, it really is rough! So if many clients have this problem, how do we solve it? I would like to offer two recommendations today. One is to exfoliate at home and the other is to have regular treatments that focus on exfoliation.

Exfoliation at home

There are three types of exfoliation - mechanical, chemical and enzymatic. I love all three. Mechanical are the scrubbing action that has a little grit (No Karen! Walk away from the St. Ives Apricot Scrub), chemical is acids (such as the Cleopatra bathing in milk which is lactic acid keeping the skin smooth and soft), and enzymatic (comes from fruits - most common in my experience is papaya and pineapple). 

Your skin type determines which is better for you! If you are aging, have broken blood vessels, sensitive skin or inflamed acne, do not use mechanical exfoliation. The chemical and enzymatic exfoliation comes in mask form. The enzymatic is much more gentle on the skin. Seek direction and guidance from your esthetician to determine which type is right for you and they will help you select a product. 

Spa Treatments that focus on exfoliation

There are many spa treatments that focus on exfoliation. Two that I will mention today are dermaplaning as chemical peels.

Dermaplaning is a clients favorite and known for the instant glow you receive, the smooth application of makeup and increased circulation of the skin. Clients remark that they can feel the air on their face differently (in a better way of course.) Products applied after you do this professional treatment really go into the skin better because they don't have to fight against the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Using a dermatological scalpel, the blade will gently glide back and forth on the skin primarily picking up and removing dead skin cells. It also will take off any peach fuzz on your face which does 'dull' your color. This results in that instant glow! (PS - Remember that you need to stop exfoliating before you come in and not exfoliate for 3 to 5 days after you come for your service! Otherwise, you'll make your skin feel more sensitive.)

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are very effective to do. A chemical exfoliation loosens the glue that holds the dead skin cells together, much like how a brick wall is held together with mortar. Chemical peels have come a long way in their days. Physicians began using deeper peels in 1882 using resorcinol, TCA, salicylic and phenol. These peels were very deep and aggressive. The peels we use today are superficial peels, meaning that they are working solely on the epidermis. A chemical exfoliation does not need to cause flaking and peeling to be working. New technology allows for peels to work without having downtime. It is also important to note that if you are taking care of your skin by regularly doing the right home exfoliation, you will not see a lot of dead skin cells coming off because you are doing an efficient job removing them on a weekly basis. So give yourself a high five!

A chemical peel comes from acids in either AHA or BHA. AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acids and BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acids. Lactic, glycolic, tartaric, citric, and malic acids are AHAs. Salicylic acid is a BHA. (You'll also note that these acids are also used in home care too!) Some of my favorite benefits from a chemical exfoliation are improved texture of the skin, barrier function, and moisture retention; increased hydration of the skin; reduced fine lines and wrinkles; improved acne and clogged pores; and skin that looks and feels smoother and softer.  

All of the clinical treatments offered by GM Collin can be performed with a chemical peel. My favorite to do with the peel is the AlgoMask. This has a thermal cooling effect on the skin that also pushes the serum deeper into the epidermis with it's rubberizing mask (did you just mention Mrs. DoubtFire?) Your skin feels different for days. This was the first GM Collin clinical facial that I received and BOY ... it did not disappoint. All peels by GM Collin are formulated to work without causing the traditional downtime. This means that you can see results without having to hide your skin for a week.

By choosing to do both exfoliation at home and services in the treatment room, you are sure to get the best of both worlds. Professional products at home are going to also get you a head start on your skin, improving the texture and giving you a healthy, beautiful glow to the skin. Working with your esthetician will help to train your skin to be the best that it can by slowing down the aging process. 

Looking at Sunscreen and Vitamin D

Vitamin D is a fat soluble vitamin that is essential for the body. This one is great for bone strength and also helps with digestion, immunity, circulation, and your nervous system. It is estimated by Mercy Medical Center that approximately 42% of Americans are vitamin D deficient. There are many signs that are linked to be low in vitamin D including fatigue, getting sick often, and depression. Since these also are signs for other illnesses, you won't know for sure unless your doctor checks your levels, generally through labs. 

There are many ways to bulk up your vitamin D numbers. Eating a balanced diet, rich in fatty fish, seafood, mushrooms, and egg yolks is definitely recommended. You can use a UV lamp and even try adding in a quality supplement. One thing that each article you will read on google will agree on is that being in the sunlight will help your body absorb vitamin D. After all, vitamin D is called the "sunshine vitamin!"

With professions like dermatologist and estheticians passionately advocating for sunscreen usage to prevent again skin cancers, there are many (myself included) that don't leave home without our SPF! Is it possible to boost your vitamin D levels while protecting yourself from sun damage?

There are many debates on this topic and I have yet to find a clear yes or no. Here's what we know! UVA is aging rays and penetrates the skin deeper. UVB is considered burning rays. It is a short ray in the skin, but also accounts for the vitamin D. A broadspectrum SPF 15 protects against 93% of UVA/UVB rays. SPF 30 is 97% and SPF 50 is 98%.

The lighter skin you are, the less time that your body needs to absorb vitamin D. In a Healthline article, the study showed that light skinned individuals wearing shorts and a tank top for 10 - 30 minutes three times a week is adequate to supply the body of the right amount of sunshine vitamin.The darker you are, the more sun exposure you would need. In Shawn Stevenson's book, Sleep Smarter - 21 Essential Strategies to Sleep Your Way to a Better Body, Better Health, and Bigger Success, he suggests getting sunlight between the hours of 6:00 - 8:30 am for at least 10 - 15 minutes when possible due to seasons.

When we are applying sunscreen to our bodies, the real truth is that generally we don't apply enough so some rays will be able to be absorbed. That sunlight is just what we need to produce more vitamin D. Yes, we need to protect ourselves from skin cancer. And yes! We need vitamin D. Be smart about your sun exposure everyday (as more often than not, sunburns come on cloudy days.) If you think you are low on vitamin D, consult with your doctor first and foremost! And consider adding in a quality supplement and beefing up your diet with things like fish and mushrooms. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Lash Lifting Benefits

If you've ever been curious about lash lifting, you are in the right place. Through the last couple of decades, the rise of enhancing eyelashes has been on the rise. First strips, then eyelash extensions, and now the every popular baby of lash lifting. The ease of the maintenance process is one of the most appealing benefits for busy working woman and even stay at home moms. 

Pros - Enhancing what your mama gave you!

If you want better looking eyelashes, but don't want to put something synthetic on your natural lashes, eyelash lifting is going a great choice for you! Eyelashes growing straight out don't look that long. But when they are lifted up and curled, you can definitely notice them more!

Pros - Time Saver!

The problem for most women is that this takes time with a manual eyelash curler or a heated eyelash curler, eyelash primer, and then mascara. You would curl your lashes every morning, get everything in place and go on with your day. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Want to cut out 5 minutes of your morning routine? In walks eyelash lifting! Come in for an hour appointment every 6 to 8 weeks. That's it!

Pros - Great lashes on the beach and at the pool everytime!

Because you are just using your natural lashes, you don't have to worry about getting your lashes wet or what the water will do to them. Combine the lash lifting service with a tint, and you are pretty set to not even wear mascara on those beach days. While lash lifting typically lasts 6-8 weeks, lash tinting lasts an average of 3-4 weeks.

Pros - Get va-va-voom when you want or keep it simple!

It's easy to get a va-va-voom with lash lifting. Just add on mascara (or primer and mascara) and see them lift a little more and thicken a little more. Or you can choose to keep it simple and just wear them with the lash and tint. It's very easy!

Pros - Easy aftercare!

With this service, the aftercare is easy! The better you stick with the aftercare, the better your results will be overall. Here's what you need to remember:

For 24 hours:

No mascara, eye makeup

Keep them dry and don't touch them

No eye creams

For 48 hours:

No steam

No saunas

No swimming

No lash growth serums

This service has been around a long time and was known as lash perming. But with any great service, this one has bee upgraded with better rods (where you place the lashes) that are more comfortable for the client and a superior product that stays fresh and ready for the client each and every time (say goodbye to oxidation). If you are ready to give this treatment a try, hop on over to pick an appointment that works for you!

Don't forget to breathe. let go. relax.

How to Make Your First Brazilian A Great Experience

If you've never had a Brazilian wax before, you may be scared of the unknown. There are so many women that have thought about doing an intimate wax, but never take the plunge. So let's discuss how to make your first wax the best possible experience for you. Here are the most common questions I hear and my responses.

General Questions

How do I find a waxer?

Most cosmetologists and estheticians are able to wax under state laws. Just because they can, doesn't mean that they do Brazilian waxing. You want to find an expert that does more than one a month. Just like if you were having a heart surgery... you want a professional that does them daily, not occasionally. The best way to find a waxer is through word of mouth. So get your girlfriends to talk!!!

Will it hurt?

Well, waxing is removing hairs and is at best, uncomfortable. So, yes. It's going to hurt a little bit. The good news: All of my first time clients say that it wasn't as bad as they thought they would be. By the time you are getting dressed, you are ready to schedule your next appointment and do it all over again in 4 weeks.

I'm a shaver and just don't know about this waxing thing. How long do I need to grow out my hair?

If you are a shaver, you will want to grow out the hair until it is about 1/4 inch long. How long is that? Think grain of rice length. Typically it is 2-3 weeks... but when in doubt, longer is better than shorter. Believe it or not, if it's too short, it will actually hurt more. There are many rewards for waxing such as thinner, finer hair making it much more manageable. 

Can I wax when I am on my period? Yikes.

The answer is yes. Just wear a tampon or cup and we'll work around the string or stem. You can be more sensitive around your cycle, so you may want to schedule at least 3 days before you start or 2 days after, but it definitely does not bother me. 

How long will I stay smooth? I would love to be hair free!

The longer you wax, the longer of period of time your skin will stay smooth and hair free. The first time you wax, we may not be able to get all of the hairs. This is normal and to be expected. You may also feel hair growing back in within a couple of days. These are hairs that weren't up out of the skin to be waxed when you came in for your appointment. The next appointments you can expect to have more hairs cycled through that can be removed so that you continue to go longer and longer hair free. 

What about ingrowns? I get ingrowns a lot with shaving. 

More good news here. Ingrowns are much more common with shaving than with waxing. I do everything possible to help you avoid them. Exfoliating is a great way to help prevent them and I offer 2 great solutions in the treatment room. The Supracor Spa Cell I recommend to everyone (trust me... this will be your new bestie for showering) and Ingrown Hair Buster for those prone to pesky ingrown hairs. 

Waxing Questions

What do I do to prepare for the wax?

The day of your wax, go ahead and take a nice warm (not hot) bath or shower and exfoliate the skin. This means to gently buff away the dead skin cells, which will help the hair follicle release easier. Avoid caffeine at least 3 hours prior to a wax as extra stimulates means you will feel the wax more. Wear clean cotton underwear to your appointment. Avoid caffeine and alcohol the day of your appointment. You could also opt to take a pain reliever.

What do I need to do during the appointment?

The most important thing to do is to breathe. From there, I will have you help hold and keep the skin as tight as possible. The tighter the pull, the less pain you will feel. 

How long will the wax take?

First time appointments generally take about 30 minutes. Your next appointments usually will take 20-25 minutes (depending on how much we are talking and not working - haha!)

Is there anything that I need to know for after my waxing appointment?

Schedule your next appointment before you leave the spa. You didn't do your first wax to have it be your only. Try at least one more wax 4 weeks later to see what a maintenance Brazilian wax feels like. Hard sweaty workouts and sexual activity should be avoided for at least 24 hours. Avoid tight clothing. You will also want to avoid tanning, hot tubs, and hot bathing/showering for at least 48 hours. Start using your Spa Cell one to two times a week after day 3. 

What if I have more questions?

That's what I'm here for! Ask away. I'm an open book and will be happy to answer for you.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Is Waxing or Dermaplaning Better?

When explaining hair removal options, I often get asked whether Dermaplaning or Waxing is better? These treatments are both amazing options, but work in different ways.

Dermaplaning's first job is to the exfoliate the skin. This is done by gently moving a dermatological scalpel back and forth on the skin. The scalpel picks up the dead skin cells away from the healthy skin cells. What does Dermaplaning feel like? I think that the best descriptions are a credit card is sliding back and forth on the skin or a cat's tongue is licking your face. While exfoliating is number one, as a by product mostly of the peach fuzz hair on the face is also removed in the process.

Want an instant glow? Dermaplane. Would you like better makeup application? Dermaplane. Would you like your products to do their job 100%? Dermaplane.

Waxing's first job is to remove unwanted and unsightly hair. There are 2 different types of wax: hard wax which sets up completely and soft wax, which uses strips to remove. I only use hard wax on the face, as it is more gentle and works by essentially shrink wrapping the wax around the hairs of the skin. What does waxing feel like? I would describe this service to have a little bit of sting or tingle. The pain is very short lived. Clients may be a little pink for a couple hours after a wax which is very normal. While removing hair is the first priority of this service, waxing will also naturally pick up a little of the dead skin cells that are ready to go.

Want to remove dark or coarse hair? Wax. Want smoother skin for a longer period of time? Wax. Would you like facial hair to grow in a little finer and softer? Wax.

So let's review. The Dermaplaning service exfoliates first and removes hair second. Having a waxing treatment removes hair first and exfoliates the skin second. The main benefits of Dermaplaning are to give you an instant glow, give you better makeup application, and better product penetration. The main benefits of Waxing are to remove dark hair, have a smoother feel of the face for a longer period, and for facial hair to grow in a little finer and softer most of the time. I should note that dark, coarse facial hair is related to hormonal changes and it's always a good idea to get those checked with your doctor.

I also will offer to include waxing the upper lip with a Dermaplane service, so you can get the best of both worlds! When looking at your skin, I will let you know if this is what I recommend for you to do.

Let's set up a treatment that is right for you!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Do I Really Have Sensitive Skin?

One of the most common misconceptions for clients that I see is that everyone seems to think that they have sensitive skin. Have you heard of reactive skin? This is another common problem with the skin and probably more common than sensitive skin. So let's dive in and examine this further. Do you have sensitive skin or is it more likely that you have reactive skin?

Sensitive Skin

Those with sensitive skin usually have other skin conditions such as eczema. They experience bumps and pustules as skin reactions. They usually have very dry skin with improper nerve endings (which could be due to over exposure to the natural elements of the earth, such as wind and or sun) and the skin usually flushes and has redness. There is usually a genetic component to sensitive skin as well.

Reactive Skin

Those with reactive skin will experience tingling, stinging, or irritated skin when using product on their face. This can also present with a little bit of redness too. In my experience, I have noticed that clients might go for the best anti aging serum and cream in the market but may be missing the target mark for a great cleanser and mist. They may also be over exfoliating the skin which leads to a compromised barrier. Remember that one of my skin care philosophies are that more is not always better.

Calm and Protect the Skin

The good news is that the way to treat both types of skin are to soothe, calm and protect. So how do we do that?

First, we need to start at the basics and work on normalizing the skin. Before you come to see me for any service, you will be asked to fill out a form about your skin, what goals you are looking to achieve and also medications that you are taking. Many prescriptions thin the skin or disrupt the skin's protection and defense job, such as antibiotics and steroids. This gives us more pieces of the puzzle. We'll discuss a normal cleansing routine for you and what products you are using and how often. A thorough skin analysis is also needed. We cleanse the face, removing all makeup and oil from the day and then look at the skin carefully. Is the skin too dry? Are there broken blood vessels at the surface of the skin? Does the face look irritated?

Home Care

90% of changes you can make with your skin will be what you are able to do at home. So the next logical step would be to change up the cleansing process. The best cleanser for any irritated skin type would be a soothing light milk cleanser, which would feel like a lotion. Adding in a very light but hydrating moisturizer would be step two. After a week of using these products, I would add in a sensitive mist in between the cleanser and the moisturizer. The goal would be to take away active and exfoliating products while adding hydration to the skin.

What do you look for when you are ready to switch up what you are currently using? Look for products that are gentle. So ladies that love a good scrub every morning... you are going to have to put that aside. Look for products that don't have fragrance in the list of ingredients. Many products will add in fragrance or parfum, which are essentially the same thing. Forget about anti-aging and acne... for the moment. In order to address these concerns, you should do it in the proper order. If your skin isn't working properly to hydrate and fight off the outside world, this means that we've got to get that straightened out before we can do all the things.

Yes! I know you want it all! And we will get there. Generally, after taking a step with the home skin care routine, we are able to start slowly adding in products to address your next concerns! Would you ever start building your house from the top floor down? NO! You need a good solid foundation. And that comes from building your skin cells to do their proper functions.

Professional Treatments

For treatments, slow and steady will win the race. Gently and soothing products with a minimal amount of facial massages are key. I also love adding in the AlgoMask Clinical Facial with my sensitive and reactive clients because it is known for its soothing and hydrating properties. This rubberizing mask tones the skin, visibly reduces redness, and revitalizes the skin.

Sensitive or Reactive?

Have you been able to determine if you have sensitive skin? Are you thinking you have more reactive skin? I am ready and willing to help you achieve your skin care goals. If you are having serious problems with your skin, let's refer you first to your primary care physician or a qualified dermatologist so that we are addressing your house building blocks in order.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

6 Hints to Glowing Wrinkle Free Skin

The ever aging clock is something that many woman don't want to face. The truth is that there are many things that you can do to slow down the process that are easy, simple, and within your reach! Forget about the mistakes you may have used on your skin 5 years ago or even a month ago. Make a commitment to yourself and your skin that you will do your best starting today!

Consistent home care

Like with exercise, consistent time working on your goals will yield great results. A person that works out once a month vigorously for a couple hours may not see the same results at the end of a year as a person that works out for 30 minutes 5 times a week. Be consistent in making sure that you remove your makeup and the dirt, oil, and environment off of your skin every night. The minimum steps would be cleansing, applying a hyrdating mist, and finishing off with a moisturizer. After you feel comfortable and confident in those steps, add in regular exfoliation, masks, and eye cream.

Regular facials

Along with making sure you are doing work at home on your skin with a cleansing routine, seeing your Esthetician will boost your progress with your skin. Regular facials gives you an immediate glow and an increase in hydration. This is done by removing dead skin cells and getting rid of impurities on the surface of the skin. Many of the products in the treatment room are not available for use at home. Licensed Estheticians can use products with a higher percentage of acids or active products. Facial treatments will also help promote relaxation from everyday stressors. (Stress would be the #1 aging factor in my books.) Every month is my recommendation for how often to come receive a treatment.

Retinols

The ever popular Retin-A developed by James E. Fulton and Albert Kligman in the late 1960s is still going strong. As we age. our skin cell turnover rate begins to slow down. It is also why it takes longer and longer for the body to heal. Retinols speed up that rate so that the newer skin cells are revealed. My advice with using these products are to

Purchase from a professional and check in with them on a regular basis (products over the counter have to be for everyone and we want to get you into the right product straightway)

Start slow (about twice a week) and increase

More is not better --- having a higher percentage does not mean that your results will be quicker or better. It actually means your skin could be more sensitive and pink.

Sleep on your back

This one isn't for everyone, but your face will definitely thank you. Sleeping on your sides or stomach will put pressure on the face during the night. Over time, you can cause wrinkles to appear from the pillowcase and pressure. Remember how your mom always said that if you kept making that face that it would probably stay that way? Well, turns out your mom is right!!!

Treating your neck and hands along with your face

When treating your face, almost every client will stop at the jawline line. Guess what areas are still being exposed to the sun and have makeup, dirt, oils, etc. on it? That's right! The neck, decollette, and hands. Many experts say to see the true age of a woman, look at her decollette and the back of her hands. It takes only a few more seconds and a little more product to include these areas in when we are doing our cleansing routine for the day and night. Pay attention to these delicate areas and you will see the aging clock slow down.

Using your insurance policy - SPF

You are paying good money for a skin care routine and regular facial services. You definitely need protection! Would you drive a new car off of the parking lot without insurance? Absolutely not! Then why are so many willing to do the exact same thing with their face? Take time to find a sunscreen that you like and will use on a regular basis. If you are going to be out in the sun for a longer period of time, reapply. If you sit by a window at work, reapply. If you... well, you get it by now. And... having SPF in your makeup is not enough ladies! Watching a video one time, I was shocked to find out that to get that SPF 15, you needed to apply 9 pumps. Wow! Do your research and then just apply and reapply!

So which one is your personal favorite? What can you do better? Remember to start today and that we will work together to make consistent steps of progress for your skin!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Questions for a Brow Expert

Have you noticed how brows are all the rage right now? If eyes are the window to one's soul, the eyebrows are surely the window frames. How are you dressing up or down your windows?

When it comes to brow waxing and brow design, there are many methods to helping create the best brow possible. I love the Design Brows Naturally technique and started using it in May of 2018. It has completely changed my brow game and I know it will change yours too. This system takes into count the different sections of the brow (head, body, and tail) as well as the way your brow hairs grow in and their placement.

So how do you find a brow expert? Let me help you start with a couple of questions that you can consider asking when you find someone new.

What type of wax do you use?

In my experience and with the additional training I have received, I would highly recommend finding someone who uses a hard wax. Hard wax sets up and is removed by itself. Soft wax never sets up and is removed with a cotton paper or muslin strip. Hard wax generally gives the waxer a little more control where wax can be removed in smaller sections and also always for rewaxing of the same area up to six time.

How long have you been waxing brows?

This one is not a do or die, but it is great to find someone who has a passion for the art of shaping a brow. Finding out if the esthetician has additional training is a bonus.

Do you have any before and after pictures of brows that I can view?

It is great to find someone who has built a portfolio of brow waxing so that you can see different brows on different faces, as we are each individuals. No two brows are the same either... so the saying of brows are not twins, they are sisters ... definitely ring true here as well. Seeing what a wax specialist can do through pictures says more than words ever can.

Can you show me the shape with a pencil before you wax?

This too can be overlooked as many waxers are limited on time. I schedule 30 minutes for each Brow Design to ensure that we have time for pictures, to show you the shape of the brow before waxing, and to discuss the plan with you so that we can ultimately design a brow that you feel comfortable with.

Other things that you might want to check out on your visit is if your esthetician is using gloves, has proper lighting, and does finishing work with tweezers. One hair can really make or break the design of an eyebrow.

If you are in the South East area of Idaho, I would love to show you how we can design the best possible brows for you!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Exfoliation is Key

When I think of basic steps to skin care, I think cleansing, toning, and moisturizing. Are you with me? These three are easy, simple, and probably take a minute and a half to do all of them. One of the things that women overlook sometimes is exfoliation. Or maybe you are exfoliating everyday. Here's the 411 on why exfoliation is so important.

The science: Our outer layer of skin is called the stratum corneum. It's a mouth full, but in Latin it is called the horny layer and consists of all the corneocytes or dead skin cells. Babies are fortunately to have that youthful glow because their skin cells turn over every 14 days. As we age, the time frame continues to increase. 28 days is the optimal that we shoot for, but you can't stop the aging clock. This turn over does not stop at 28 days either. If you have extra dead skin cells building up, your face could be hiding your best features.

So what do we do about that? We exfoliate! There are 3 main ways to exfoliate the skin ... mechanical, chemical or enzymatic.

Mechanical

95% of you (or more) will think of the scrubbies on the face when I say exfoliate. Manual exfoliation is a great way to get the dead skin cells off quickly, revealing the fresh new skin underneath.

Here's the skinny on this one. DO NOT (I repeat, DO NOT) over exfoliate. Follow the directions on your specific product. If the product says 2-3 times a week at 1 minute, that does not mean that 6 days a week at 3 minutes and 7 seconds is better. One of my main skin care beliefs is that more is not better. Prime example is the mechanical exfoliation.

Chemical

Chemical exfoliations are AHAs or BHAs. AHA or alpha hydroxy acids come from milk (lactic), sugar cane (glycolic), grapes (tartaric), apples (malic), citric (oranges/lemons) and mandelic (bitter almonds.) BHA is beta hydroxy acid and is known as salicylic acid (willow tree).

Think of your skin as a brick wall. While mechanically exfoliating will knock off the top bricks, chemical exfoliation eats away the mortar so the bricks will tumble off on their own. You don't need actual peeling to see results. Newer technology allows for the results without the side effects in many skin care lines. For more dramatic results, come in for a series of chemical peels while using quality products at home.

Enzymatic

This is similar to chemical exfoliation but using gentler products that soothe the skin. Ingredients that are used to do this are papaya and pineapple. This is a great option for those with sensitive skin.

So, you are using the 3 main steps but not exfoliating? Where does exfoliating fit into your steps? If you want to add in exfoliating, I would suggest cleansing, THEN EXFOLIATING, and then finish off with toner/mist and moisturizing. I like to say that you are wasting your money with the $100 serum that you bought if you are not exfoliating. You want the product to get past as much of the dead skin cells as possible and glide easily and effectively so that the product can do what it's supposed to do.

I love exfoliating and offer 4 different take home products just for you. I would love to show them to you!

Active Exfoliating Powder (mechanical, chemical, and enzymatic)

• Reveals the next layer of skin leaving it visibly soft, fresh and luminous

• Ingredients - rice powder, salicylic acid, papaya and pineapple

Intensive Exfoliating Gel (chemical and enzymatic)

• Leaves skin soft and visibly toned

• Ingredients - lactic acid, grapefruit, lime, and lemon oils

Derm Renewal Booster (chemical)

• Visibly tightens pores

• Visibly increases skin's luminosity and smoothes its micro-relief

Derm Renewal Cream (chemical)

• Eliminates dead skin cells and reveals a fresher looking skin

• Hydrates and replensihes the skin's moisture barrier

Let’s me help you pick out the right product for you so that you can get all of the benefits of exfoliating your skin. Schedule an appointment today.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Why Should I get a Facial?

Most people I come across know exactly what a massage is... and as a by product, they also know if they would like one. My stats? 90% would love regular massages and 10% don't want another person touching them.

When asking about facials, many people don't know exactly what a facial is and why they should get one. And it's really no surprised because facials are done so differently... depending on what products are being used, if you are going to a home party or doing a personalized spa treatment, and where in the world you are receiving your treatment.

So let's start by talking about what a facial is with me. I describe a facial as a nice relaxing service that will also begin to address the concerns that you have with your skin. Before your appointment, you will fill out an intake form that gives me a general idea of what you do with your skin at home, skin goals that you would like to achieve, and general health to name a few. Arriving to your appointment, we will discuss the goals for your treatment. You get dressed down to your comfort level and are tucked in luxurious bedding.

The facial process is beautiful and feels so good on your skin. The main steps on the face are to cleanse, exfoliate, apply a treating mist, facial massage or extractions, mask, and all of the finishing products. I use a healing touch to massage the products into the skin. Combine this with the warm towels, application of lotion to arms and hands, and the deep breathing, you not only get glowing skin, but also the mental benefits of a calm and relaxed mind.

If you have acne, we can work on cleaning out pores and decreasing the inflammation. Those with sensitive or red skin will benefit from soothing and hydrating treatments to calm the face. If you are worried about sun spots, we will start first with great exfoliation to remove layers of dead skin from your face. Wrinkles and fine lines will improve through massage movements and the appropriate products to both hydrate and relax the facial muscles while also lifting, tightening and firming the skin. Each and every skin condition can improve with the help of a skilled Esthetician or skin therapist.

So why should you receive a facial? While there are many benefits, here are my top 3 reasons!

1) Improve the overall look and feel of the skin through exfoliation.

Everyone has dead skin cells on the top layer of their skin. The process of removing the dead skin cells is exfoliation and can be done through "scrubbies", chemicals like lactic acid, or enzymes such as papaya. When you exfoliate properly, you will reveal the layer of fresh new skin. If you ever feel like your skin is "lack luster", exfoliation is one thing you can do to help get that youthful look back!

2) Increase circulation helps all of the skin cells do their job proficiently.

During a facial, products are massaged into the skin which improves healthy circulation. With improved circulation also comes with improved capacity for the skin to do whatever job it has been programmed to do more efficiently. In essence, the cells are getting the right energy to keep going and going and going.

3) Relaxation.

In this day and age of run, run, run, then go, go, go ... and never stop because we are constantly plugged in, the chance to turn it off for 60 to 90 minutes and focus on your breath is priceless. Massage therapists will agree with me in saying that both the body and the mind needs time to heal and be calm. With a facial, you receive those same benefits while improving the look of your skin.

Since you were born with only one face, consider keeping it looking healthy, glowing, and youthful by scheduling time to see your skin therapist. The ideal time to rebook is every 4 to 6 weeks. Your Esthetician will also set you up with amazing options for home care so that you can keep your skin as beautiful between appointments as when you first receive your treatment.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Masking Your Imperfections

For the last couple years, the trends for masks have been on the rise. Whether it's a once a year girl party thing or part of your weekly routine (definitely my suggestion), throwing a mask on your face will definitely be a pick me up for your skin. In fact, if you are doing the three basic steps (cleanse, tone/mist, moisturize), adding in a mask is one of the easiest ways to boost that youthful glow while working on imperfections like acne and wrinkles. So, let's talk about facial mask benefits and what to avoid.

GOOD

First things first. Pick a mask that is right for your skin. If you would like to help with pore size, acne, anti-aging or hyper pigmentation (aka sun spots), find one that does just that. I am in love with the GM Collin Hydramucine Cream Mask. Ingredients include vitamin E, A and F, bamboo extract, water lily extract and allantoin. I call it the BRIDAL MASK because it plumps up the skin and leaves your outer layer with a dewy finish. Ka-chow! And GM Collin just had a NEW BABY - the Charcoal Mask. This mask will:

1. Capture and elimate micropollutants

2. Revitalize and replenish the skin

3. Purify and improve the skin texture

4. Even out skin complexion.

BETTER

Have you heard of zoning your masks? This is super helpful if you have an area that has acne and the rest of your skin needs anti-aging. Put one mask on the pimples on the nose and chin and put the anti-aging mask on the rest of the areas (cheeks, lip, forehead.) It'll be a win-win getting you the right products in the right area.

GOOD

Have you seen the sheet masks and patches that you can use? A lot of these are very calming and moisturizing. With all of the pollution, free radicals and sun that we see each day, these are perfect for your face. They are especially fun to wear for Snap Chat and with girlfriends. Warning - silly talk ahead! A couple of other tips here... don't leave them for longer than the instructions say (or 20 minutes), rub in any excess product left in packet, and relax and enjoy the benefits. Another favorite for my clients are the Instant Radiance Eye Patches. Seven benefits of these patches are:

• Detoxify

• Firming

• Soothing

• Immediate and Long Lasting Moisture

• Anti-Puffiness

• Anti-Dark Circles

• Anti-Wrinkles

• You can even use these on your marionette lines.

BETTER

Doing treatments that include sheets masks and patches will step up your skin care game, just like seeing a trainer at the gym. One of my favorite clinical facials by GM Collin is called the Sea C Spa, which includes patches that dissolve on the skin. This treatment delays the visible signs of aging and energizes the skin; diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; evens out skin tone; and illuminates the skin restoring its youthful appearance.

GOOD

Oxygenating masks can be a good option too. I have one I use in the spa room that leaves beautiful and glowing skin all while feeling and smelling amazing. Oxygen also kills bacteria and brings blood flow to the surface of the skin which can give you a pick me up. But it's not right for all skin types. So let's chat.

One last word of advice. Skip over the peel off mask. These masks claim to remove hair, blackheads, and dead skin... which they may do. But in addition, they also can remove hair you want to keep (like brows) if you get it in that area. They also pull up and out on the skin, which is harmful to the physiological components of the skin and vascular system right below. Long term and repeated use will cause damage to collagen, elastin, and damage to the tiny veins which can be unsightly.

So what are you waiting for? Come see the options that I have to use for you both at the spa and at home!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Marrying the Old with the New

There are so many treatments and services available to clients in 2018. It's amazing to see how far technology has taken us and where we are headed. There are treatments that estheticians have been performing for many, many years. You know what they say about those. Oldies, but goodies. And others are pretty new to the scene in my treatment room. In the with new, out with the old. Does that have to be the case? What if you could have the best of both worlds?

I would love to "propose" marrying old services with new ones for optimal benefits. Here are four techniques to consider that I currently use in the treatment room for facials. Which do you think are old and which are new? Say hello to High Frequency, Microdermabrasion, Ultrasonic Skin Scrubber, and Rose Quartz Massage Tool.

High Frequency

High Frequency is also known as Tesla high frequency current and was developed in 1892. Named after the inventor, Nikola Tesla, this was used to treat strep throat and other skin conditions before antibiotics were in play. In the 1970, European spas noticed the change on skin when using them in facial treatments. And how it so often happens, North America follow suit in the 1980s.

How it works

High Frequency uses alternating or sinusoidal current which produces a heating effect with vibration. In the glass electrode, the oxygen is removed and neon or argon gas is put inside which creates a yellow/orange/red or blue/purple hue and a buzzing sound. The electrode is applied to the face (usually gauze is in between the skin and the hand piece) and slowly moved over the areas. Indirect sparking is where the electrode is placed close to the area without touching and is able to bridge the gap sending energy into the skin.

Benefits

• Stimulates blood circulation

• Increases absorption

• Increases metabolism

• Relieves congestion

• Has an antiseptic and healing effect on skin

• Helps coagulate and heal open lesions after extractions

• Generates a warm, relaxing effect on skin

Nutshell

High frequency sends a low wave energy source which helps products penetrate better on the face while drying up acne and healing the skin.

Microdermabrasion

This technique developed over time, but started around 1500 BC with sandpaper, then wheels and needles. The first microdermabrasion (also known as microderm) machine was invented in Italy by Dr. Mattioli and Dr. Brutto. By mid 1990s, microderm machines were seen across America. Traditionally, crystals and vacuum suction were used to exfoliate the skin. Other machines offer diamond tips.

How it works

Microderm is a powerful electronic vacuum with high grade microcrystals that spray onto the skin's surface through a hand piece. It can be done quickly in a 30 minute treatment or part of a facial.

Benefits

• Diminish sun damage, pigmentation, open and closed comedones, fine lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores, and coarsely textured skin

• Stimulates blood flow

• Stimulates metabolism

Nutshell

Microderm is a non invasive procedure that gently exfoliates dead skin cells of the face while polishing the skin to be smooth and soft and stimulating collagen growth and healthy looking skin.

Ultrasonic Skin Scrubber

The Ultrasonic Skin Scrubber is also known as the Ultrasonic Spatula is considered the new generation of microdermabrasion. Which is a little ironic, seeing as how ultrasonic devices have been showing up in treatment rooms since the 1980s (but Microderm was 1996). This treatment has really taken off and is one of my NEW favorite options.

How it works

Ultrasonic tool is placed on the skin with product and/or water. The tool is used on both sides - one for exfoliating and the other for product penetration. It uses a frequency above the sound range of a human ear and works for cleanse, exfoliate or push product.

Benefits

• Soft peeling of the skin

• Exfoliation of dead skin cells

• Removal of black heads

• Stimulates natural collagen fibers

• Helps in rebuilding tissues

Nutshell

Ultrasonic Skin Scrubber can first help to cleanse, exfoliate and remove debris effectively and second increase product penetration so you see amazing results.

Rose Quartz Massage Tool

Another new to me technique I've been using is the Rose Quartz Massage Tool. Stones have been used for ages and rose quartz is said to be a high energy stone that produces love. It opens up the heart chakra which causes self-love, leading to love for others. (This feels a lot like self-care. LOVE it!) Gem stone facials have been used before recorded history, but they are new to my treatment room. Manual lymphatic drainage was developed in the 1930s by Emil Vodder.

How it works

Using this tool, I apply massage oil and then gently press these stones in a specific pattern to release stress points and to promote lymphatic drainage. It is simple, but yet I am thrilled every time I perform this treatment. It just feels amazing on the skin.

Benefits

• Reduces inflammation

• Reduces puffiness

• Increase circulation

• Drain congested lymph nodes

• Rid the body of toxins and waster

• Stimulate collagen production and improve elasticity

• Promotes anti-aging

Have you tried all four? If you haven't tried each of these treatments, now is your time. Schedule an appointment today and we'll go over the specific benefits for you!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Narrowing Down the Search for Amazing Skin Care

We are surrounded by so many options and choices. Back in the 80s and 90s, we found ourselves captivated by those 30 second commercials and print ads. Times have changed and now we see ads on FaceBook, beautiful graphics on Instagram, and a plethora of pins on Pinterest.

In this world full of great things, how do you choose between the millions of skin care products that will keep your skin healthy and glowing? How do you narrow it down?

It is overwhelming to choose. How do you know that this product will work and do something beneficial for you? Spending money on a chance... do you just go for it? If the internet makes a claim, then it must be true, right? We all know that's not true!

Each dermatologist and esthetician, will have products that they like and recommend. These are products that they have absolutely done their research on, personally tried and experimented with, and eventually spent a lot of money to invest in. All because they believe that this is the best bang for your buck and they truly love it! When you see your trusted partner, you know they will be working with you to find the very best products for you to love!

The professional becomes even more trained in learning the benefits of the skin and how it can help you. They will ask you questions, like:

"If you could change one thing about your skin, what would it be?"

"What is your current skin care routine?"

"Is there a product that you absolutely love? What do you like about them?"

Straight up, I think your best bang for your buck will be in a serum. This is a product that will have a specific "job" to do for the skin and can penetrate deeper than any other product will. Take this with a grain of salt though. If you aren't preparing the skin at the ground level by using a decent cleanser, mist, etc. you might be throwing your money down the toilet. The skin needs to be at the right pH level and getting all of the dirt, excess oils, etc, off before putting on the star of the show.

Another great tip that I give for those buying skin care on a budget, is to start with one item and each month save up for the next product. That way, you can spread out the purchasing. If you have cleanser, mist, and exfoliant, then start with a moisturizer and SPF. When you run out of the cleanser, make the change then.

I think one of the best ways to narrow it down is to start with ingredients! Did you know that as a general rule of thumb, the first 5 ingredients in the product make up 80% of the product? I always start at the first 5, but if you go to 8, 9, or 10, that'll work too.

Look for ingredients that you don't want in there. From Mark Lees The Skin Care Answer Book, some of the most highly comedogenic ingredients are:

linseed oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, oleic acid, coal tar, ispopropyl isostearate, squalene, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, acetylated lanolin, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl linoleate, oleyl alcohol, octyl palmitate, isostearic acid, myreth myristate, butyl stearate, and lanolic acid.

Then look for other ingredients that are going to be beneficial for the skin. Here are some of my favorite ingredients:

• coenzyme Q10

• ceramides

• caffiene

• lactic acid

• kojic acid

• mandelic acid

• hyaluronic acid

• snow algae

• niacinamide

• allantoin

• beta defensins

• jojoba oil

• zinc oxide

• kaolin

• lactus basillas (probiotic derivatives)

• skinmimics complex

• matrixyl 3000

• and many other peptides and antioxidants.

Another great website that I like to use when I don't have books on hand (yes ... I don't have all of these memorized and some of them are very similar but the response on the skin is quite different) is Paula's Choice (google it.) You can type in any ingredient and start there.

Above all, use your esthetician and skin care professional. Let them analyze your skin after a cleanse to see what products they think will give your skin the best benefit. After all, you deserve the best and you get only one face in this life! Showcase what you have with that inner and outer glow!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Pretty Little Lashes

I am blessed to work on gorgeous women everyday! Facials, waxing, and lash lifts are some of my favorite services to help clients with. There are so many fun options with me that it's sometimes hard to choose.

Have you heard this proverb before? "Eyes are the window to the soul." It's a good one. So much light and life of a person's face are found through the eyes. Whether you are happy or hurting, it's hard for the eyes to hide that.

Why not accent your best facial feature? Two ways to do that are through the framing (which are the brows - and another blog post coming a website near you soon) and lashes. Most women have incredible eyelashes! There are a couple of things that we can do to enhance them and ways that we can protect what we already have.

1) Curl Then Apply Mascara

Never apply mascara and then use a curling tool. This will make your lashes more susceptible to breaking and falling out because it can cling to the curler.

2) Be Picky About Mascara

Let's have a chat ladies. With so many options, how do you really choose a great mascara? I've been searching and trying new ones every couple months. Waterproof mascara can be more drying, which can dry out the eyelash itself. Replace your mascara every 3 months to avoid infections and lash mites. (Yes, they are a real thing.)

3) Remove Each And Every Day

Do not forget to remove each night. Do not pass go and collect $200. This rule seems simple, but is often not followed. If you don't remove the mascara and eye makeup properly, it can make your lashes become stiff... which again can lead to falling out and breaking off. A recipe that we all want to avoid. My FAVORITE lash cleanser is the newest to hit the RevitaLash line called Micellar Water. It's really delightful and my favorite product for 2018.

4) Use A Lash Serum

A lash serum or conditioner will condition your lashes to help them be at their optimal health. What does that look like? It looks like fuller more beautiful lashes. RevitaLash Advanced keeps eye health and safety at the forefront. Which translates into peace of mind.

5) Try A Lash Lift

Lash lifting has been all the rage for the past 2 years in the United States and can definitely enhance what you already have. This treatment is done by placing the eyelashes on a curved rod and applying solution to natural lash which lifts and then sets the curl. This can be dramatic for clients with lashes that tend to grow straight out or even slightly downward. I have seen incredible results and would love to help show you what this service could do for you.

Have more questions? Let's set up a consultation and I can personally answer them for you!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

The 4 S's in Skin Care - Stress, Smoking, Sun, and Sugar

Skincare is all emcompassing. Not only are we dealing with genetics, but we are dealing with internal factors as well as the environment that we live in. There are so many do's and don't's and it seems like every expert has their opinion. Am I right ladies?

Well, I'd love to break down what I call the 4 S's in skin care - Stress, Smoking, Sun and Sugar. Small gains over a long period of time can help slow down the aging process for everyone. Where can you improve?

Stress

There... I said the one that we've all been thinking about. Everyone has stress. Whether home or work, finances or sleep (which could easily be yet another S) ... we've got something to worry about. Stress will not only cause those baggy, puffy eyes to make an appearance, but it will aggravate any skin condition that you currently have. For example, if you suffer with breakouts, you make be getting more pimples more frequently. Wrinkles can be more pronounced, seeing that you may furrow your brow more often. Definitely not where you want to hear the word more.

Here's another fun one for you. When I speak in public, there's a rash that starts on one side of my neck and slowly "grows" all the way across to the other side. What's it from? STRESS!

Learning healthy ways to deal with stress is important! Exercise, meditation, breathing, lots of water and even sleeping can help your body deal with all that cortisol. But if it's still not helping, don't let stress linger in your life. Seek out a professional to help give you the proper tools or a doctor that can give you further recommendations.

Smoking

This could be #1 on any list that you seek out. We all know that smoking causes cancer, but do we know that it causes premature aging? No one wants to age faster.

Here's the skinny on this S. Smoking weakens blood vessels and decreases your circulation, so there's a lack of oxygen for the healthy cells. Smoking also creates free radicals. As my teacher in school explained free radicals... "A free radical is like a hussie in a bar. She doesn't have a man, so she steals yours. And then you don't have a partner... which creates a cascading effect that just won't stop." (School was years ago, but trust me. I'll never forget about free radicals and the HUSSIE stealing my man! Haha)=

What do brown fruit and a rusted car have in common? They are exposed to free radicals which can cause oxidative damage. And that's what happens to our skin when we smoke.

Seek out professional help to quit if you need. And don't start smoking because you're stressed! (See what I did there?)

Sun

Ladies, let's talk a moment to talk about summer and how great it is to be outside in our beautiful weather. Okay, let's move on to talk about sun exposure. Sun damage occurs over time and is one of the things that we can improve!

Did you know that genetics makes up only 10% of our aging? The large majority goes to the winner... Sun! (80-85%!!!) There are 3 types of UV rays... UVA, UVB, and UVC. A stands for aging, B stands for burning. C rays don't make it through our atmosphere. The A rays are long and penetrate deeper into the skin, causing damage in the collagen (plumpness) and elastin fibers (skin's elasticity and "snap back"). B rays are shorter and considered to cause most of the cancers. They shorten the cell's lifespan, cause free radicals (see the HUSSIE listed above), and work hard to break down tissue.

So while we do need sunlight and the vitamin D, we also need to be careful and cautious about our sun exposure. Using an SPF product that feels good and is easy to apply is great! Wearing your foundations with SPF is not enough. Reapplication is important.

As a side note, SPF that is 15 covers 93% of rays, 30 covers 97%, and 50 SPF covers 98%. I wouldn't pay the extra big bucks to get more SPF to cover an extra 1/2 %.

Sugar

I saved my hard one for last. When you eat a diet high in sugar, your blood sugar can rise. When you blood sugar raises and remains raised, glycation happens. Glycation is when sugar attaches to the collagen in the skin and makes it hard and stiff. And even sagging skin! That's what happens when you eat sugar! There is also connections between the sugar we eat with the stress hormone, cortisol and inflammation. Neither are great for the skin OR your body!

What can you do? Figure out a way to limit those artificial sugars while still enjoying life. You'll not only sleep better, but your skin will thank you in 20 years!

Have you learned anything? Which is your nemesis? What changes can you make to help slow the aging process? I can't wait to partner with you to help you make a necessary change, hook you up with an awesome sun care product, and get rid of those hussies at the bar.

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician

Watch Out! 3 Things to Check at Your Facial Appointment

I love receiving regular spa treatments from other local estheticians and massage therapists. Not only do I find them relaxing, but I get to take in the experience from a client's perspective. I hope it keeps not only my skin and mind fresh, but that it also helps me to see what I could do better.

I look for an inviting space with fun conversation and awesome results. Personality is big for me. I want to feel loved, pampered, and rejuvenated from a month of stress. This is my down time and I'm ready to enjoy each and every minute of it!

So what happens when you go to your long awaited appointment and worry about laying on the table. Are you thinking,

"Will this person help me?"

"How can I trust them?"

"How will I know if there is a red flag?"

Here are 3 starter hints that you may want to find a different professional. No intake form or consultation; having messy instruments, overflowing trash and dirty linens; and no gloves. These could make you want to be like Forest. Run Forest, run!

1) No intake form or consultation

Believe it or not, but everything we do affects our skin. As the largest organ of the body, the skin is the barrier to protect bad things from getting into our bodies and also helping keep good things, like water, inside the body. Through an intake form or consultation, your esthetician learns about your WHOLE body and how to help you reach your goals of your daily treatment.

One example on my current intake form is to please list all medications. If you were taking Accutane or using a Retin-A cream (commonly know as Tretinoin), this would be a contraindiction of waxing. Why? Accutane or Retin-A is extremely large doses of vitamin A which thins the skin. Thinner skin means that this is actually an exfoliation treatment. Getting rid of dead skin helps to expose acne to oxygen which means the acne bacteria is killed. Waxing also is in it's own way, an exfoliation treatment. So using Accutane/Retin A AND waxing would be over exfoliating the skin. And if you've been following and reading along with me, you know that too much of a good thing ... really isn't good!

What you can do!

Make sure to update your health history with your esthetician when you come in for your regular appointments.

2) Messy instruments, overflowing trash, and dirty linens

Having a clean working space is an indication that your esthetician not only loves what she does, but that he or she is sanitizing the area and getting rid of the germs for the next client!

One of the things that I check is the wax pot. The outside should be wiped down (at least periodically) so that it is not covered with sticky and unattractive wax.

Make sure the trash can isn't overflowing with garbage. It's also nice when the outside of the garbage can looks okay. Sure, it holds the trash, but the can itself doesn't have to look bad.

Did you recently watch the Insider Edition on the hotel that was not changing their sheets? Ugh! Fresh sheets and towels equal a happy client, right? Right!

What you can do!

Make sure that your treatment room has a thing called a barbicide jar. It is a disinfectant solution for tools that estheticians use, like tweezers.

3) No gloves

No gloves is okay for some treatments but not for others. Recognize that if your esthetician is doing extractions where you release acne from the skin or waxing (especially on the body), gloves are a standard precaution for both of you.

What you can do!

Don't be afraid to speak up and ask for gloves. You know your own health, but you don't know your esthetician's health.

What other things have you noticed at your treatment? Don't be shy in requesting something different. Afterall, you are paying for the appointment and you deserve the best!

Don't forget to Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Licensed Esthetician