How Does Diet Affects Our Skin?

Diet is an ongoing debate in dermatology. I am a firm believer in treating the whole person and not looking for a quick fix. The things that we do over and over and over again, surely affect our body and mind. Since the skin is the largest organ, it stands to reason that the fuel we put into our system affects our skin. Today, we will take a closer look into sugar, caffeine, alcohol and iodine.

Sugar and glycation

If you’ve guessed that sugar can cause breakouts in the skin, you are correct. But what is more frightening than that is what happens underneath the skin that you do not see. The excess sugar in the skin binds to the collagen and elastin in the skin, causing it to become hard and rigid instead of supple. When your face moves, the bounce back effect slows which is when fine lines and wrinkles begin.

I always recommend a balanced diet; low in the white stuff (sugar, processed, starches, etc.) and more in the colorful stuff (fruits, veggies, etc.) That being said, I heard recently that it’s important to have a healthy diet, but that cookies are good for the soul. If you like to indulge in sweets, just remember that moderation in sugar is a good thing.

Caffeine and hydration … Alcohol and redness

It’s not all about what we eat, but what we drink. We know that both caffeine and alcohol are stressors for the body. Caffeine (for many is the nice little perk in the morning) can dehydrate your body. Water is very healing and a large percentage of what we are made up of. The skin gets the leftovers of everything we ingest, but it also is the first place that can be taken from when the body needs something. I am the first to have dry lips. Part of this can be curbed by being mindful of the amount of caffeine you consume as well as the water that you intake.

Alcohol has inflammation effects in the skin, causing redness, puffiness and also dryness. It too can also cause acne. If your skin has a tendency already to be more red or your have rosacea or flushing in the cheeks, it’s my recommendation that you limit alcohol. After you have a night of drinking, you’ll also need to step up your hydration game. Carry a water bottle with you and continue to drink as much water as you can the next day or too.

Iodine and acne

This has been a long debate that is ongoing. Dr. Mark Fulton shared that there was a correlation between acne and iodine in the production of acne. Since then, Laura Cooksley has also shared the same thought. However, Dr. Mark Lees has challenged that thinking and believes that you would have to consume A LOT of iodiode food, such as sea kelp several times a week.

My thought is that it is relatively easy to keep this low (by using Himalayan salt instead of iodized salt, choosing low sodium foods, and not eating too much sea weed), so why not give it a try IF you are having issues with acne. Salt is also going to increase the puffiness in the skin, so if you are looking to rid yourself of those bags under your eyes, this will be a good idea too.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

What Causes Wrinkles? Preventing Aging by Slowing the Clock

Every year, the cake comes complete with candles, family and friends, and the traditional song, right! And each year, we are aging. <clear throat> Happy birthday to you! Happy birthday to you! Happy birthday dear beautiful! Happy birthday to YOOOUUUUUUUU! As we see the numbers go up, we also see a loss of the fat pads in the face and additions of the wrinkles. Other things also become more noticeable. 11s in between your brows, the long horizontal lines on your forehead, short lines around your twinkling eye, and the marionette lines around your mouth. Simply put, wrinkles are caused by a breakdown in the elastin and collagen fibers. Over time, our muscles continue to make contractions when we smile, laugh, frown, or wink! This movement in the muscle will eventually form a small fine line. The fine lines over time become deeper and create a wrinkle.

So now that we know the basics of how a wrinkle is formed, let's dive into how we can slow the aging clock, but externally and internally.

Three External Slowing Recommendations

#1 - Sunscreen/SPF

The sun is the number one external aging factor, so it stands to reason that the number one suggestion should be using a quality sunscreen or SPF. You need to apply daily (and repeat applications if you are outside.)

#2 - Antioxidants

Antioxidants in skin care help protect the skin against free radicals and pollutants that are found in our environment. One of my current favorites is Vitamin C. While this ingredient may be in a lot of over the counter options, this is one not to skimp on because many are not shelf stable, can be pore clogging and inflammatory in the skin.

#3 - Retinols (aka - vitamin A)

Yes, you’ve heard my back and forth through the years on this ingredient. But the skinny is that if you find a high quality product that contains retinol and doesn’t irritate your skin, USE IT! When you start using a Retinol product, let’s ease your skin into the routine. Definitely get with your Esthetician to find the right product and routine for you!

Three Internal Slowing Recommendations

#1 Reduce your stress

Again, since stress is our number one internal factor of aging, reducing this component of course would be number one! Find what helps you to reduce your stress - like meditation, yoga, breathing, etc. What works for one person, won’t necessarily work for you, so keeping trying and looking.

#2 Low stress diet

Yes, you read that right! Think high in fiber and greens and low in white stuff. Sugar creates glycation in the skin and makes the collagen and elastin brittle … which causes fine lines to become wrinkles, etc. So pay attention to what goes into your body. It will thank you for years to come in many aspects!

#3 Pay attention to your cues!

If something doesn’t feel right in your body, don’t ignore it! Address it! See your doctor, read quality articles about it, and then figure out what you can do to make small and simple changes that will help. Again, added stress in all formats will lead to faster aging.

Using both external (SPF, Antioxidants, Retinols) and internal options (stress, stress, stress - haha), you can definitely do your part in slowing what your mother and father passed down to you. Let’s do our own evaluation and see what we can do better, and then start today! I look forward to pointing you to the right direction for skin care that will work to slow your aging clock.

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, Le

How Long Will It Take For My Acne To Clear?

How long will it take for my acne to clear? Wow! That's a loaded question. But I will do my best to answer your question and help you get to your goal of clear, glowing skin. Let's dive right in on what we need to do to get you there as quickly as possible.

There are many factors on why you may be experiencing acne, one of which is the build up of dead skin cells. Babies skin cells turn over every 14 days. This process happens so quickly that you rarely seeing flaking or peeling on their precious skin. As you begin to age, the process of the dead skin cells sloughing away takes longer and longer. The optimal amount of time that we aim for in adulthood is 28 days for that process of the dead going away and the new skin cells reappearing. Our skin however will not be able to do this process and it's own and needs help. Exfoliation is a great way to help speed up the process to try and achieve the 28 day cycle.

What we put on the skin also affects if the skin can get rid of acne or if it makes it worse. There are many products that say that they are FOR acne that can actually aggravate acne. A couple of the ingredients that are NOT good for acne prone skin are: coconut oil, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, PPG2 myristyl proprionate, and D&C pigments to name a few. When looking at your skin care products, you'll want to focus on the first 8 ingredients in a product. These are the most important because they are the bulk of what the product contains. Cosmetics are also many times like poison on the skin and should be avoided if possible. 

Internal factors are also key here! Think stress, diet and even vitamins and supplements. Stress is the number one factor if our skin will respond to the treatment that we can do on the outside with products. Many times, clients are in school, have small children, or are experiencing a rough time in life. Our whole body responds in different ways to stress! Diet is also a contributing factor. Many will think chocolate or greasy foods, but in my research, the most important factor is the iodine content in the foods. Dairy is also considered to be a big culprit here. Vitamins and supplements are taken by many to help the skin, but too can have a negative impact. Biotin and skin vitamins are highly discouraged as they may fuel the acne to continue.

After explaining all of this to you, hopefully you understand that we become detectives in figuring out what some of the triggers may be to your skin. We work together to check every nook and cranny and to experiment. Changing up products and make sure that you include the right type of exfoliation, learning meditation to combat the stressors of life, switching vitamins and perhaps your diet and more may be part of the solution for clear skin.  Because it can take 90 days for a pimple to reach the surface of the skin, it takes a minimum 3 to 4 months to clear up the skin (if we figure out all of the triggers and can make the necessary corrections)... because each skin cycle is 28 days! Receiving regular treatments with your esthetician can help to speed up the process, perform extractions on whiteheads and blackheads, and help to guide you as a mentor through this process.

If you would like to set up a consultation to review what we could do for your skin, please use the book now button. We'll go over where to start and get you a free acne booklet as a cliff notes of the right things to do and the things to avoid. Here's to the start of beautiful, clear skin with more confidence than you ever thought possible.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Can I Combat Redness?

Every face tells a story. A story of fun summer days, memorable trips and numerous smiles with laughs along the way. Your skin also will tell you what it needs, but often we are not paying attention to the cues that it gives us. If your skin looks (or feels) red, it’s time to start addressing what it is telling you. Below are four of my top suggestions to help your skin heal and take on that normal color again.

First and paramount is sun protection. Since the sun is the skin’s enemy number one, it’s important to use sunscreen everyday. Yes, each and everyday, and not just on the days when you are out. Regardless of how simple (or complex) your home care routine is, this will be your very last step. When you are regularly using SPF and continue to do so, this alone will help with the red ‘tint’ that our skin takes on.

Second is hydration! So many clients will tell me that they drink 8 glasses of water and eat all the right things. Wahoo!!! This is SO important, but the skin will get the left overs after the other organs have taken what they need. Simply put, the best way to address the skin’s needs is to apply it topically. Using professional products with high quality ingredients is exactly what the Esthetician ordered!

Third is an elimination diet (so to speak.) Remove any products that may be irritating to the skin. Specifically, if you have redness, you’ll want to remove the scrubbie exfoliants, any product that has added fragrance, and hot water to wash off your cleanser, exfoliants, and masks. Use tepid water instead (trust me on this one.) If one of your skin care products feels tingly on the skin, you may also want to consider removing it from your current line up and see if your skin does better without it.

Finally, you may want to add in a serum or concentrate that helps with redness, especially if this is your top skincare concern. Making sure that it is gentle and soothing is a must. Some may find benefit in adding a serum that works on the blood vessels of the skin, ensuring that they are not in a dilated state all of the time. Your Esthetician can help direct you to something that will fit your needs.

Did you find which one of these you need to do? Or maybe it’s all four! Let’s get your skin back to its natural baby coloring again. Are you ready?

Don’t forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

The Top Three Hardest Skin Concerns to Fix

When you fill out the Client Intake form as a new client, you'll see that I ask you this question. What would you like to change about your skin? There are options of common ones to address as well as a fill in the blank spot too. I really like to tailor each appointment to your skin care needs. Say you are coming in for waxing, but have something you want to ask me about your face. The time is yours and we can definitely use it to help you get ideas on things we could do inside and outside of the spa.

While we each would like to improve the appearance and health of our skin, I've found over the years that there are three concerns that are the hardest to fix. They are: Hyperpigmentation, Acne, and Dark Circles under the eyes. Below is a brief overview of why I have selected these as my top three.

Hyperpigmentation

Sun spots, liver spots, melasma, and pregnancy butterfly masks... I'm going to group them all in this spot under hyperpigmentation. The changes that occur with the melanin (the color) in the skin are connected to hormones. This is an internal issue and takes time to ease them away ... and then trying to keep them at bay is a whole 'nother ball of wax. In short, make sure that your hormones are balanced, then choose to either suppress the spots (products that contain more natural or more chemical ingredients) or bring them out (think laser treatments and deeper chemical peels.)

Acne

This issue and skin problem is one of my very favorite. The type of acne and the causes range greatly. I love becoming an acne detective with each client. The roots of the problems may not be able to changed. For example, 83% of acne has a genetic link to it. But, the aggravators can be eliminated or minimized. However, some acne clients will take steps to correct their problems, but after the skin starts clearing, they will not continue those actions that worked so well. This makes it one of the more difficult condition to treat.

Dark Circles under the eyes

This is the third condition that I see a lot of and that clients would like to change. This one as well can be genetic ... but diet can also play a role. Making sure that your digestion system is working properly is a key here. Also, using eye serums and creams that continue vitamin k and caffeine can also help to minimize the appearance of having dark circles (and even puffiness) under the eyes. 

If any of these skin conditions hit home with you, let's discuss your concerns and the best solutions for you at your next appointment. I know that as we work together, that we'll help you make progress to reach your skin care goals.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Did I Start Brazilian Waxing?

Many clients come in for their first Brazilian Wax (or their hundredth Brazilian), and while we are waxing, chatting about the process of hair growth, the after care recommendations, and just about life, they ask me this question. So, how did you get into intimate waxing?

I laugh of course, only because I would ask the same question, and my choice of specialty might seem odd. But here's why it makes sense and how I got started into Brazilian waxing.

First, I like doing tasks that are detailed oriented, and I like to the be the best. I have always been one that is up for a challenge. I seek to improve myself on a regular basis and love continuing education. Just because I've done something a certain way for years, doesn't mean that I won't change it up, try a new technique, etc.

Second, I am hard wired to be a results seeker. Sure, I love the list making and crossing off, but at the end of the day, I want to see that I actually 'did' something. With Brazilian waxing, I can immediately see the results of the labor that we accomplished. There is nothing more satisfying than to see the wax strip with all of the hair, and look back at the skin to see no hairs left behind. Can I get a high five?! Haha!

So when I first started in the world of Esthetics, I did it all! I loved the challenge and variety of offering all services. But soon after, I learned that there was a knack for Brazilian waxing and not every Esthetician could (or wanted to) do a Brazilian Wax. I pride myself in offering this service in a short period of time, efficiently, and with little pain associated. I also keep a very clean and sanitary wax station. I wanted the challenge and dove right in to trying 17 different waxes (oh my! That's a story for another day) and taking all sorts of courses (which I still do because you can always learn something.) It's been my passion and I love helping women with this intimate service and helping them feel comfortable, especially for first time waxers.

I'd love to help you achieve smooth skin with any body waxing! Can't wait to meet you at the treatment room!

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

The Quick Prep List for a Brazilian Wax

Are you new to Brazilian Waxing, but don't have the time (or desire) to read a couple articles on how to best prepare for your wax? Then this article is for you! Short and to the point! If you have further questions, reach out to your Esthetician for the right guidance!

The Do's List

Exfoliate the day of your appointment

Wear comfortable, loose clothing

Wear clean underwear 

Try to be relaxed and calm

The Don'ts List

Stay away from the horror stories on the internet

Avoid or limit caffeine intake that day

Don't exercise immediately before your appointment

Final notes.

Ask the questions. Your Esthetician has been asked everything under the sun. Once the pants come off, there are no questions waxer haven't been asked before. 

Listen to the post waxing instructions. They are given for a reason.

Plan to purchase the aftercare. This helps your skin and hair down there be happier. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

February Delight - Chocolate Masque

One of the things in our skin care line up that is highly underrated are facial masques (sometimes spelled masks.) In general, masques are products that you leave on the skin for up to 20 minutes. They are packed with ingredients that help with your skin concern, whether that be acne, large pores, rosacea, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, dryness, oilness, etc. This list goes on and on. Truly.

Often, we skip this step, because who has 20 minutes. Or even 10 minutes these days! Or do we. If you have watched one episode on Netflix, Hulu, Disney Plus, or Amazon Prime, then I know you have time!!!

This month, I invite you to try something fun for the holiday. It's called the Chocolate Power Skin Rescue Masque by GlyMed Plus. This masque increases firmness and elasticity, reduces pigmentation, plumps, and lifts and firms. It is incredible for those seeking anti-aging. It also smells DIVINE and I would consider this to be a fun one to try just because it's FEBRUARY. It can be used for normal, dry, oily or combination.

It's best to be used at night (due to the thermal benefits that heat up and then cool down, increasing the blood flow) and will give your tired skin a kick start and boost! It includes cocoa, acai, reservatrol, jojoba, and papin. This masque is only left on the skin for 7 to 12 minutes. You may want to start with 7 minutes and each time you put on go up a minute or two. More is not always better, so please don't exceed the 12 minutes. Also, do not use it more than 3 times a week. 

Make time for things that are important to you! Make time for self care and self love! This extra step on a regular basis could show your skin what it's been missing out on. I challenge you to try a mask and watch your skin improve.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Confessions of an Esthetician - Performing My Own Brazilian

Did you read the title? I could just tell you that you shouldn't do it on your own and walk away nicely. But I know you want to get comfy on the couch and grab some popcorn, don't you? Okay ... here goes!

I have been a long term waxer, and while I know how to perform Brazilian waxes (heck - I've performed as many as nine of them in one day,) I still pay my Esthetician for this service. It is 1000% worth it! But, during quarantine, I had to resort to desperate measures. 

So, I decide after waxing my legs and underarms that I just need to do it (advice I often give clients that want to try Brazilian waxing for the first time.) I have developed a pattern for waxing that is quick and efficient, but balanced by comfort. Knowing that I would have to be pulling my own strips (and also knowing what the rips feel like), I opted to follow that same pattern, but do slightly smaller strips. 

I start on my first section and place the wax ... almost wondering if I am that crazy that I decided to do it on myself. I wait for it to set up, go to pull, and then chicken out. I know I can't leave it on too long, so I keep breathing like I'm going to have a baby and then take the plunge. The strip was removed and I checked to make sure that not only the wax came off but the hair did too. Success! Instead of placing several strips of wax at a time, I keep it slow and steady. I call it a success because I didn't swear and I was able to remove all of the wax that I placed. I deserve a gold star! It took me way longer than waxing a client. But sometimes you've got to do what you've got to do. 

Did I die? Haha. Nope.

Was I drenched with sweat at the end of it? Yep!

Was I able to wax my own bootie? Nope! I'm not that flexible.

Did I immediately message my Esthetician to set up my next wax appointment? You bet your bottom dollar I did!!! And I'm still seeing her every month!

Leave the professional services to the professional! I promise you it's worth it. 

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Am I Over Exfoliating My Skin?

Exfoliating the skin has many benefits. As you remove the dead skin cell layer, you reveal the fresh new skin underneath. This skin has a healthy glow and appears more youthful. Products penetrate the skin better. Makeup application glides on much easier. The texture of the skin also feel much more smooth to you and your Esthetician.

But what happens if you do more exfoliation? Can there be too much of a good thing? 

Are you guilty (like I have been) of knowing that you don't have to 'feel' a product on the skin to know that it's working but still wanting to 'feel' it? We, as Americans, get sucked into that trap of wanting to feel the tingle or the burn. Or maybe this describes you... If your Esthetician recommends that you let the product sit for 10 minutes, you do 15 minutes just to make sure it was enough. Or if you are instructed to use twice a week, you do four times for good measure. If this is you, I'm here to share some exciting news! More is not always better. This is one of my skin care philosophies. Do not be fooled into thinking doing the steps for longer or more frequent is helping your skin.

In fact, it can be quite the opposite. The acid mantle of the skin is delicate and needs to be balanced. As we age, our own exfoliation processes slow down and needs more help from us to remove the dead skin cells. But if we exfoliate more than our skin needs, it may turn red, feel irritated, break out, etc. 'Listen' to what your skin is telling you. Do you actually need more? Each skin type will benefit from a different type of exfoliation as well as a different schedule for exfoliating the skin.

In general, here are some key points:

Younger skin needs less exfoliation

Those with acne will want to avoid harsh scrubs

Sensitive skin types need to be extra choosy about what type of exfoliation that they use

Follow the recommended exfoliation schedule (both how often and how long when applying to the skin)

When you are tempted to put on that exfoliator for longer or to scrub harder, just remember 'More is not always better.' Stick with what you know you need and you will see improvements in your skin! 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How Do you Handle Large Pores?

One of the common skin care goals that clients would like to work on and improve for their skin is to work on large pores. Besides anti-aging, the number #1 request of what clients would like to change about their skin is pore size. The request to shrink pores is one that many of us wish and desire. And if I were a genie, I'd grant you that wish. The truth is that your pore size is genetic. The larger pore sizes are down the middle of the face in the t zone area. There is nothing that you can do to shrink pores. However, there is much to be done to make the pore size appear smaller! Are you game? 

The best way to minimize the pore size is by cleansing thoroughly and exfoliating regularly. I've also added my bonus tools that work well in helping my skin stay clear and healthy!

When you are cleansing your skin, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Most people cleanse once, but if you are a heavy makeup wearer, you suffer from acne, or you are washing right after a sweaty workout, it may be appropriate to cleanse twice. You can use the same cleanser, or you can use two different cleansers. The later option could look like having a milk or oil cleanser and then a foaming cleanser after. Or doing a gel cleanser followed by a deep cleansing solution. Always massage the skin gently and remove the cleansers with tepid water followed by a makeup or washcloth. This technique of wiping with a cloth after you've rinsed the skin can be compared to cleaning your kitchen floor. You wouldn't just throw down the cleanser and water on the floor, right? You definitely need a mop too to go back and forth and maybe even scrub just a little! Experiment with different combinations to see what works for you and your skin! As you cleanse efficiently with the right cleansers, you will notice your pores looking healthier and tighter.

Exfoliating on a regular basis will definitely help minimize the appearance of pores. There are different types of exfoliation and everyone has their preference. If you choose to do mechanical exfoliation, make sure that you are not using the apricot scrubs or one that is harsh, as the facial skin is very delicate.  Follow the recommendations of the product that you use. In general two to three times a week is adequate to helping the skin flush out the debris that get trapped inside of the pores. If the debris stay inside the pore, the will appear bigger.

You could also use tools in your cleansing and exfoliating steps if you'd like. Two of my favorite are the My Skin Buddy and well as the Supracor Spa Cell. The My Skin Buddy uses four different technologies in one light weight device. LED light therapy uses different wavelengths for different concerns for the skin - red helps slow the aging process, blue kills the p bacteria present with acne, green soothes and calms the skin. Ion care which means that the positivitely charged ions attract and pull out the impurities of the skin and the negatively charge ions push serums deeper within the skin. Ultrasonic vibration not only feels good, it also breaks up the dead skin cells while lifting, tightening, and firming the skin. Thermal heat aids in the cleansing of the skin by emulsifying the dirt and oil. This technology also shows that it improves the skin's oxygenation process, improving blood flow and shrinking pore size.

The Spa Cell has been a favorite of mine since 2016, which you can use on your face and body. This is my go to for any body waxing client, especially if you are wanting to receive a brazilian or bikini wax. It is not only effective, but also antimicrobial. This reusable product works with any cleanser or body wash you are already using.

Keep your chin up and do your best with the pores that you've been given! Cleanse, exfoliate and try one of these specialized tools to keep your pores clear of debris. Smile and show off your glowing skin!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

How to Step Up Your Winter Skin Care Routine

It seems as if every year, my skin screams just a little louder when the cold winter air starts appearing. I'm convinced that it is age and the slowing down of the repair systems that our skin uses when it heals at night. I sure didn't notice this when I was 18, but now that I'm 29 (wink, wink), I am noticing more and more with each passing year.

Does this strike a cord with you too? Are you noticing that your skin feels different in the winter? And all of the seasons for that matter. Read on to get three simple tips for helping your skin maintain it's hydration levels during the colder months.

#1 - Check out Your Exfoliation Schedule

I hope you are already exfoliating your skin on a normal basis. If not, let's definitely talk. Make sure that you beef up your exfoliation routine. Depending on what exfoliation you are doing, you should be using this a MINIMUM  of once a week (even twice) all the way up to every day. Consult with your Esthetician on how often you should be applying your exfoliant. This will always depend on what type you are using and how your skin typically is along with how it acts in the wintertime. 

Regardless, pick days that you always exfoliate and stick to your schedule religiously.

#2 - Use Your Serums or Concentrates

Alright ladies! This step may not be in the most simplified of routines (those 3 steppers out there - cleanse, tone, moisturizer.) But I'm telling you, if you were to use a serum at any time of the year, winter is THE time to do this. A serum's molecule size is much smaller than a moisturizer. What does that mean? It means that a serum or concentrate can penetrate the skin on a deeper level, providing much needed moisture and balance. 

Basically, if you aren't already using a serum or concentrate, please start today. Do it every morning... and every night. Watch your skin soak in the awesomeness (yes - that's a word)!

#3 - Evaluate Your Current Moisturizer

Take a look at your current moisturizer. Is this going to be a thick enough/ heavy enough product for you to ward off the force hot air inside and the cold crisp air we feel outside? It is not uncommon for clients to make a switch in the winter months to something that's a little more decadent on their skin. While you may be able to get away with the lightest weight moisturizer in the spring and summer, you may not be able to in the winter.

Pull out the moisturizer and really evaluate if this will do the best for your skin come December. It's really okay to put away the other moisturizer and pick up a luxurious option for the winter. You can come back to your favorite come springtime!

So there you go! Three easy options that can help your skin combat the harsh winter months ahead. Stay warm, stay healthy, and stay glowing!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Acids in a Nutshell

Chemical peels are always popular and great to do in the winter time. These contain acids to help dissolve the 'glue' that holds the dead skin cells together. It's important that the chemicals you do with your esthetician or dermatologist/plastic surgeon are working only on the dead skin level and that they do not go into the living skin cells.

Each acid has a job to do and target different skin concerns. While we know that chemical peels contain them, what you might not have known is that they are commonly added into cleansers, serums and more that you can use at home. In a lower concentration, they may be right for your skin. 

So how can I tell the acids apart? Which ones are most common? Here is a little description on the most common acids you might find in your products and what they will do for the skin.

Lactic Acid is considered the most gentle of acids because it is the largest molecule size. That means that it can't penetrate too deep. While it mainly targets dry, dull and lack luster skin, this is suitable to start off most clients with this type of peel to see how your individual skin will react to the acids.

Most of us will think back to the Romans, who were known for taking milk baths. Their beautiful, glowing skin was silky and soft. Who wouldn't want that?

Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule size and most clients feel this type of peel because it can go further into the skin, making it more active. This acid comes from sugar cane and is very effective at treating breakouts, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles. It stimulates the collagen and elastin fibers to awake and get working, which is a huge bonus for those of us who want to work on aging skin!

One of my favorite award winning peels is the GM Collin Derm Renewal, which combines the powers of Lactic and Gycolic Acids. A series of this peel will work to even out the surface layers of the skin by improving texture, reducing visible signs of aging and brightening the skin.

Salicyclic Acid comes from willow bark and is most common known and used for acne. It is a BHA (Beta Hydroxy acid) and works to loosen and soften dry, scaly skin while reducing oilness, acne and photo-aging. Salicyclic Acid goes into the pores flushing out the dirt, oil, and debris that can cause blackheads, whiteheads, and enlarged pores.

While this is a typical acne product, it's important to remember that it is drying on the skin. This is great, but some clients take it too far. Work with your Esthetician to find the balance in your skin while ridding the skin of acne. Because skin that feels dry will signal back to the cells to produce more oil. 

Mandelic Acid derived from bitter almond is also a great acid and works on many skin types. It is actually one of my favorite acids in treating acne because it can treat all types of acne, such as folliculitis. Its antibacterial properties make it suitable for acne clients, while also making it appropriate for clients that are working on pigmentation and the damage that the skin causes to our skin.

The Salicyclic Peel in the GM Collin line actually has more Mandelic Acid in it than Salicylic. Again, the combining forces of these acids (along with the Glycolic Acid) make it powerful, yet gentle on the skin.

Chemicals have been used for years and will continue to be a popular treatment for clients because of their effectiveness. The percentage of acids in products is important to note, while the professional products will usually have a higher amount (as well as being higher up in the ingredient list.) The number is not everything, however. Make sure that you work with your Esthetician to find the right balance for you and your skin!

An Estheticians Perspective on Yearly Skin Exams

Even though I've been in the spa industry since 2009, I had actually never had a skin exam before this year. Here's the thing. I pay attention to my skin, and nothing really had grabbed my attention. So imagine my surprise when (after using a new to me mask one day), the next day a spot appeared out of nowhere. Add in there that it happened to be on my forehead. Bummer!

I had already decided that 2020 was the year. But then covid hit. And all the things became just another thing. I reached high in the closet to grab my esthetics book... and also turned to trusty google. (Yes, your esthetician does this too.) I immediately crossed off the Melanoma ... which gave me peace of mind. It really didn't fit the basal cell or the squamous cell carcinoma characteristics. At this point, I had already made my appointment to see the dermatologist and those 2 weeks couldn't come fast enough.

Once I arrived to my appointment, the medical assistant had me strip down to my undies and change into a gown to cover. (Yes ladies. Make sure you wear them so you don't have to be in your birthday suit. Haha!) The Doctor (or Physician's Assistant or even Nurse Practitioner) had on a light with the loops (which are magnifiers to see things more up close and personal.) After looking at my skin, he said that it was Actinic Keratosis (a pre cancer spot that shows up like a rough patch of dead skin.) 

My options were to get it frozen off or to use a cream for roughly 2 weeks. I chose the cream, which my doctor also told me that I could use if I saw any other spots arise. About 6 weeks later, I had a follow up to check that spot and got the all clear. 

My suggestions are to make sure that you are aware of your skin and to note changes. Have regular skin exams so your doctor find things early, which is key to any type of cancer. I have also sent clients that come in for regular facials to the dermatologists because of changes to their skin. So it also helps to have someone else helping you look out for these irregularities. Don't be nervous because this is what they do all day, everyday. And make sure that you speak up with concerns and questions at your appointment. Don't delay is caring for yourself. THAT is truly self care.

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go, Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Mask-ne Solutions for You at Home - Part IV

The things you do at home, have the biggest compound effect because you are able to do skin care workouts daily. I like to liken your facial visits with the gym and a trainer. When you go to the gym and see a trainer, they will set you up with a program. It's your job to continue going back to the gym in between your training sessions. If you don't do the homework, your trainer will never be able to help you break into the next level. And isn't that the reason why you are seeing a trainer? I can definitely help set your skin up for success by offering tools and 'home care workouts' to do in between seeing me. With any skin care goal that you have, we can start a new program all together or maybe add in one exercise that will pack a big punch.

First things first. You need to be cleansing your skin and you need to use a moisturizer. These two are pretty basic and the first things that I encourage my clients to do. If you aren't doing those things, let's talk. If you are doing those exercises and ready to add in the next thing, let's talk ingredients that will jumping up to the next level.  I love using benzoyl peroxide, oxygen ingredients, probiotics, and the favorite product of 2020 called Fulvic Elixir. Check out below more information on all of these options.

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide kills the c acne bacteria (formerly called p acne). This ingredient can be an amazing 'spot treatment' of sorts to help your skin get over the blemishes that you are experiencing. This ingredient can be drying and is not for everyone. To effectively spot treat, you must treat the microcomedones that you don't see yet. (The pimples below the surface of the skin that haven't made it through yet.) Instead of just dabbing product right on the pimples themselves, you want to treat a little above and below where you typically are seeing the acne pop up. So if you get pimples along the jawline, treat 1/2 inch above and a 1/2 below that area.

Oxygen

Seems like a simple solution, doesn't it? For acne sufferers, inside the pores, the dead skin cells sluff off at an accelerated rate and get stuck inside the pore. If you can get more oxygen in the pores, it will increase circulation and promote wound healing in those areas. The c acnes are anaerobic, which means they live off of areas without air. Another great way to kill off those pesky bacteria on the skin.

Probiotics

We know the power of probiotics in helping fight off bad bacteria, while promoting the good ones. Probiotics have been used in skin care for years, but it is currently becoming a buzz word in the industry. This is a great, gentle way to help speed up the healing while fighting off the acne that comes from the mask. Look for skincare that has probiotics added to their line up of acids and other acne fighting ingredients.

Fulvic Elixir

Oh my! What can I say about this particular product? It is AMAZING and I don't want to go without it. A fellow esthetician, Tracy, said, "Let me put it this way. If I could bathe in it, I would!" I feel the same. This serum is lightweight, has an incredible smell, is anti bacterial, anti fungal, anti inflammatory PLUS it also has anti aging properties in it and hydrates. All at the same time. Yep! It's my favorite for 2020!

Fulvic acid is one of the most powerful antioxidants and rapidly heals, soothes, and prevents scarring. Other key ingredients include Agastache Mexicana Flower (love to say that word!), Calendula, Aloe Vera, Grapefruit Peel, Orange Peel, and Chamomile. It's a strong line up to help your skin stay hydrated and smooth while preventing acne and promoting healing. Are you ready to get yours?

Think about the products that you are currently using right now. Are they helping you achieve the results that you want? If so, great! If not, let's see what we can change up to get the right ingredients on your skin today.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

Mask-ne Solutions for You at the Spa - Part III

The newest problem to hit the states is called Mask-ne, a form of acne that starts and mostly stays in the mask area. The previous post called Do You Have Mask-ne really delves into what this is. And last week's post Mask-ne Solutions for Everyone really is for everyone: how to keep clean and beautiful skin while in a pandemic. 

Now that you know what it is and some general solutions, let me offer a couple of solutions (both in the treatment room and home care products) that will help make it better. In the spa, we can use a variety of technologies such as LED, HydroGlow, and Chemical Peels. Of course, if you've never had a spa treatment, let me know and we will get you set up with the one that will work best for you after a consultation.  This blog post will focus on the modalities I can use at your appointment, and the next blog post will focus on home care options. Stay tuned!

LED

LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. These have been around since the 1960s, but have only recently become popular. Each color of LED is a different wavelength and treats certain concerns of the skin. Red is primarily for anti-aging, green for sensitivity and redness, yellow for hyperpigmentation, and infrared for inflammation. The main function of the blue LED light is to kill the p (or c) acne bacteria. This bacteria is present on everyone's skin, but there are many, many more on someone that suffers from acne. Blue light also reduces redness and irritation while combatting current and future breakouts. Red light has also shown great improvements for acne clients. This light aims to work on the collagen and elastin in the skin, while calming, soothing, and reducing inflammation. 

HydroGlow

The HydroGlow Treatment is a new treatment in 2020 to Essential Esthetics by Zoey. What is it exactly? It is hydrodermabrasion. Essentially it is an exfoliation treatment similar to microdermabrasion (using vacuum technology), but performing the service with serums and creating a wet treatment. This one sucks out impurities of the skin while pushing in serums just for you to hydrate, purify and detox the face. It feels so clean and literally glowing. Clients are loving this popular service!

Chemical Peels

Chemical Peels often sound scary to clients, but they don't have to be. I offer 3 different levels of peels that exfoliate the skin effectively, which will help speed up the dead skin cell turnover, making acne much more manageable. The first level are ones that have zero downtime. Everything works on a cellular level. So even though you don't necessarily see skin flaking or peeling, it is still working. The second level is a micro peel where there may be slight flaking and peeling. The amount is individualized depending on what you are currently doing in your home care routine. Most clients find that there is no need to take time off of work (especially because we are currently wearing masks everywhere.) And the third level (which I call the mother of all peels) is the Elaine Brennan Skin Renewal Peeling System, which creates the skin to come off in sheets generally between 7 to 10 days after the peel. This only is working on the dead skin cells, not the living skin cells, so it is very safe, but may require a couple days of 'downtime' where you wouldn't want to be in public.

All of these modalities may be used in conjunction with each other or by themselves. It's all dependent on your goals, the severity of your skin conditions, and really what sounds best for you! I will always work with you to come up with the best solutions that meet your needs and lifestyle. Let's connect in the treatment room to help you change your skin today!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Mask-ne Solutions For Everyone

Whether you are currently experience mask-ne or not, these general tips are for everyone! Let's talk about mask hygiene and what you can do during these times to keep healthy skin. 

Mask hygiene

The first you may have noticed as you walk around the grocery store or eat at a restaurant. Do you see everyone fiddling and adjusting their masks? The number one no-no would be to stop touching your face. As soon as you have placed your mask on your face, leave it alone. This means that you need to find a mask that is going to fit your face properly and doesn't slide or move too much while you are talking.

Replacing masks

How often should you change out your mask? That all depends on how well your skin is doing while wearing one, but let me suggest that you change out at least once a day. Start with a new one in the morning. By the end of the day, you'll want to wash it if it's a reusable mask or replace it if it's a disposable medical mask. 

Washing cloth masks

Another thing that we need to be aware of is how to properly care for our cloth and reusable masks. When you breathe, talk, etc. there will be germs that will collect nicely in the masks and it's important that you wash them. I suggest using a very gentle laundry detergent without fabric softeners, dryer sheets, etc as these can aggravate the skin. They definitely aggravate acne. Line drying is best if possible. 

Storing Masks

Are you guilty of sticking your mask in the cup holder of your car as soon as you are done from the store? Or shoving it in your purse or diaper bag? I think many of us can say yes. After you are done using your mask, place it in a sandwich baggie or something that will protect it from everything else it may be around. This will help keep it cleaner and more sanitary. Which means that our skin will not be as exposed a random crumb, tube of makeup, or whatever may be where your mask goes.

Cleansing the skin

This should go without speaking, but your skin can reflect how you treat it. Now more than ever, it is so important to cleanse the skin properly. Use any cleanser and massage the skin for about 60 seconds. Rinse with lukewarm water and then gently wipe with a wet cloth to remove the final dirt, oil, etc. When appropriate, do a double cleanse. This means to cleanse twice in a row. Ideally, you would do this twice a day, but if you do it once, do it at night. In the morning, wipe with a wet cloth or rinse with water in the shower 

Hydrate the skin

The skin will need adequate hydration while wearing masks. While it is important to drink water daily, this is oftentimes not enough. Hyaluronic acid is a great ingredient to help keep the skin's water content happy. If you have a moisturize you love, but it doesn't seem to be cutting the mustard right now, you may need to switch to something heavier. You can also double up (like wearing a coat that has a liner - wear both) by using a serum or concentrate plus a moisturizer. When in doubt, talk to your esthetician.  

Do not wear makeup

If you can, please skip the full face makeup, especially foundation. Because there is a lack of oxygen while wearing a mask, further covering the skin will not do you any favors. Play up the eyes and eyebrows with something fun. Even try a lash lift or eyelash extensions to make it easy and to bring attention to those baby blues or gorgeous browns. 

When appropriate, take mask breaks 

If you are able to maintain 6 feet distance and it follows with government regulations, consider taking a mask break. Even a little oxygen to the skin will help keep your skin happy.

Taking all of these suggestions into consideration will help you to maintain and achieve healthy skin. You may need to add one of these into your daily practice. Some people will need to do them all to get there. Your esthetician is here to walk through other suggestions if needed. Stay tuned for at home solutions and spa treatments to treat Mask-ne.

Don't forget to

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

Do you have Mask-ne? Part I

Over the years, there have been several terms coined... Back-ne (acne on the back), Make-ne (makeup acne), and now we are hearing about Mask-ne. If you haven't already guessed, it is acne from wearing a mask. Estheticians around the world are seeing a huge increase in acne cases on the cheek, chin, and lip areas. 

Why is this happening? While wearing a mask, 3 main culprits occur that aggravate those that are prone to having acne. These are friction, heat/humidity, and lack of oxygen to the skin. 

Friction

Friction has been known to cause acne for years. The term that is used to describe this is called acne mechanica. This occurs due to pressure and friction on the skin. For example, a catcher that has acne around the face mask, a football player on the shoulders, or a polo player's chin strap. Even wearing a backpack, bra, etc where pressure results can cause acne to occur in those areas. 

Heat and Humidity

Heat and humidity is a recipe for disaster. If you look at different climates, you will see this. Dr. James E. Fulton dedicated his life to seeking out treatments for the disease of acne. During his research, he found that acne had a higher prevalence in the Carribean, places like Miami and gulf coast cities.  He speculated that the reason why heat and humidity play a role had to do with the excessive water content in the skin that could cause swelling inside the follicle, breaking down the structure. 

Lack of Oxygen

Lack of oxygen is another trigger for mask-ne. When we look at the skin, it is important that air can flow into and out of the pore. When skin cells are sloughing off, the oxygen helps to keep the p (or c) acne bacteria from reproducing at an astronomical rate. In general, more acne occurs on the face due to the natural of the pores, sebum, etc. than on the body. So even though we wear clothing all year round, our faces are not normally covered.  

Unfortunately, when wearing a mask, we are seeing the recipe of having all 3 -friction, heat/humidity, and lack of oxygen ... which is essentially a buffet for the bacteria to spread and reek havoc on the skin. 

Whenever I see clients for acne, we work together becoming detectives to find out what might be the cause of the flare ups. If you diet is full of high salt, we limit or cut out those foods. If stress is the biggest aggravator, we work on incorporating yoga, deep breathing, and meditation to your life routine. The easiest way to help clear the skin would be to stop wearing a mask. In this world that we live in, that is not currently a possibility.

Stay tuned for the next blog posts where we talk about the solutions! These will be broken down into general solutions, plus treatment room and home care products that will help make the Mask-ne better. 

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE

The Power of Exfoliation and Serums with HydroGlow

I hope that you know by now that I am a huge fan of exfoliating the skin and using a serum or concentrate. Here's why there is magic and power in the combination of using both! You get both in the NEW service being offer at Essential Esthetics by Zoey with the HydroGlow. 

Exfoliating the skin means that you are gently helping the skin to eliminate, remove, and dissolve the dead skin cells off the top of the skin. While there are many ways of doing this, the main two that are recognized are ones with the scrubbies and ones without that go on the skin like a mask. The mechanical exfoliation removes dead skin cells by knocking off the top bricks of that wall. The exfoliation with are either chemical or enzymes that work by eating away the mortar of our brick wall (the lipids and proteins that are keeping the dead skin cells connected.) Exfoliate the skin properly, and you'll notice that you have a more healthy glow.

Using a serum or concentrate on the skin can make a dramatic impact on the skin. And here's why! The molecule size of the serum is smaller, which simply means that it can penetrate deeper. Many serums are a thinner consistency, which further helps them reach down in the skin. Serums and concentrates can work on any skin concern. But, if you are concerned about acne, don't choose one that is an anti-aging serum (though we all want to slow down our aging process.) Pick a serum that is going to help with YOUR top skin care goal!

So why is there magic in using both exfoliation with a serum? Well, this powerful duo will workto FIRST remove the dead skin cells of your face to allow the serum that you are using to really do its job and not lay topically on the surface of the skin. The serum that could go down to x layer will now be able to go even one step further, landing a bigger knock out punch!

The HydroGlow Treatment will use the serums in each step of your service - the cleansing, exfoliating, extraction and hydration process. Using the suction in hydrodermabrasion, you are using exfoliation for the skin in each step as well, which works to get rid of clogged pores and revealing the youthful appearance of the skin.

Incorporating both exfoliation and serums both at home and in the treatment room is a winning combination that I can't wait to show you! Meet you back at the spa soon!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE 

What is Hydrodermabrasion?

There are so many buzz words in the skin care industry. In fact, in January this year, I posted another blog post entitled Deciphering Between New Skin Treatments. This article talked about these different services: Microneedling, Nanoneedling, Dermaplaning and Microblading and how to keep them straight. Hydrodermabrasion is also a treatment that has been around for awhile, but is gaining popularity among facial clients. So let's talk about what it is, what it feels like, and who is a candidate to receive this results oriented facial.

So what is Hydrodermabrasion? 

Hydrodermabrasion is called Hydroderm for short and is an exfoliating treatment utilizing a machine with suction and serums and saline. There are many different machines for the esthetician to use, but the concept is the same. You use a wand that uses suction (vacuum) and serums (saline) at the same time. These serums are used to target whatever skin condition the client is looking to improve. 

The benefits of this services are wide ranging. In general though, when you exfoliate the skin properly and on a regular basis, the skin will have a more youthful appearance. This is because when you gently remove dead skin cells on the skin, you are showing off the newer skin underneath. The products that you use on your skin will be able to do their job 100% instead of laying topically and just sitting on top of the dead skin cells. Hydroderm will help remove blackhead, clear clogged pores, even skin tone and texture, improve hydration, and give the skin a glow.

What does it feel like?

This service is one that clients always say makes their skin feel 'cool.' The use of the vacuum and serums at the same time are very effective on the skin. I sometimes describe this as powerwashing the deck. So you'll feel the suction and the wetness as the serums come out of one tube and then are sucked back in with another. The suction not only takes the serums and saline, but the dead skin cells and debris on the skin can also be sucked into the waste tank. It's also a fun experience for clients to see what landed there as well.

Who is hydroderm recommended for?

Almost all clients can benefit for this service. If you have cystic acne, rosacea, or very thin skin, this may not be the best facial treatment to receive. But the suction can be turned down a little and the serums can always be customized, which makes this service not a cookie cutter one. Make sure to ask your esthetician what would be best for you and your skin care goals that you are trying to reach. 

Are you excited to try out something new and see your skin begin to improve? Ask your esthetician if you could benefit from this facial and let's schedule it today!

Don't forget to 

Breathe. Let Go. Relax.

Zoey Jolley, LE